Here's an articulating bow sprit. This is version 4 and with it we're able to sail about 8 degrees lower with an asymetrical spinnaker allowing us to be more competitive on the downwind legs. See the photo forum for more details.
For you performance sailors,
- Thread starter Jeff Peltier
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Sure it goes better but<
In most fleets you would take a real signigicant hit on your rating for the rig you show in your post.
In most fleets you would take a real signigicant hit on your rating for the rig you show in your post.
Oh I see
you have a loose footed main. Jeff how much better performance do you get with the new main?
you have a loose footed main. Jeff how much better performance do you get with the new main?
Regarding the Main
This year I'm running about even with the same boats that were slowly pulling ahead of me last year to windward. The old sails were the original low cost sails that came with the boat and were getting a bit stretched. The new main has tappered battons and a loose foot, each of which probably helps slightly. I probably wouldn't give those changes credit for more than half the improvement as 6 years on the old sails, no doubt reduced the performance at least as much. I also didn't add UV protection to the headsail and instead have a sock. Often times, when the UV is sewn on, it changes the shape of the leach and in my old headsail, it created a slight hook that I really didn't want.
This year I'm running about even with the same boats that were slowly pulling ahead of me last year to windward. The old sails were the original low cost sails that came with the boat and were getting a bit stretched. The new main has tappered battons and a loose foot, each of which probably helps slightly. I probably wouldn't give those changes credit for more than half the improvement as 6 years on the old sails, no doubt reduced the performance at least as much. I also didn't add UV protection to the headsail and instead have a sock. Often times, when the UV is sewn on, it changes the shape of the leach and in my old headsail, it created a slight hook that I really didn't want.
The rating question
Different clubs will have their own rules regarding this. In our case, no rules are stipulated other than spinnaker or working sails. We sail mostly windward-leeward courses, which favor the poled spinnakers. This is because the beam reach, which is a factor in the rating is not included and so adding an articulating sprit helps even the playing field. As far as the main goes, I've used North sails back when I was racing scows, but I liked the idea of the tapedrive with a poly skin to reduce weight and minimize stretch over time. The cost is more than dacron, but precise sail shape should last longer. Time will tell!!
Different clubs will have their own rules regarding this. In our case, no rules are stipulated other than spinnaker or working sails. We sail mostly windward-leeward courses, which favor the poled spinnakers. This is because the beam reach, which is a factor in the rating is not included and so adding an articulating sprit helps even the playing field. As far as the main goes, I've used North sails back when I was racing scows, but I liked the idea of the tapedrive with a poly skin to reduce weight and minimize stretch over time. The cost is more than dacron, but precise sail shape should last longer. Time will tell!!
How did you build bow sprit?
Thanks for the response on the rating, the more I think it we also have a spin and non-spin fleet and I don't think there would an additional penalty for the bow sprit? I am currently racing non spin but like to try spin with your bow sprit design. Please share how you built it.
Thanks for the response on the rating, the more I think it we also have a spin and non-spin fleet and I don't think there would an additional penalty for the bow sprit? I am currently racing non spin but like to try spin with your bow sprit design. Please share how you built it.
Construction is Aluminum
With the 32" sprit and and strut from the bow eye being 1" schedule 40 pipe. Now that I'm done expermenting, the cross strut will be 33" x 3/4" solid round. The support bracket was 2" angle with 3/8" round to protect the bow light from flogging lines.
With the 32" sprit and and strut from the bow eye being 1" schedule 40 pipe. Now that I'm done expermenting, the cross strut will be 33" x 3/4" solid round. The support bracket was 2" angle with 3/8" round to protect the bow light from flogging lines.
A few more details.
Your spreader, or "cross strut" appears to be a solid rod inside a larger tube. Why? You also mention you are going to a 33" x 3/4 solid rod. Is that different than the picture? How did you attach the lines to the ends of the strut rod(s)? The upper left edge of the picture shows the spreader lines attached to something at the end of the sprit tube. What? Where do you run the strut lines to, on the boat, and finally, what is the block just behind the light for? Very nice work. Did you do the welding yourself or what was the approximate cost? Brigg
Your spreader, or "cross strut" appears to be a solid rod inside a larger tube. Why? You also mention you are going to a 33" x 3/4 solid rod. Is that different than the picture? How did you attach the lines to the ends of the strut rod(s)? The upper left edge of the picture shows the spreader lines attached to something at the end of the sprit tube. What? Where do you run the strut lines to, on the boat, and finally, what is the block just behind the light for? Very nice work. Did you do the welding yourself or what was the approximate cost? Brigg
A few answers
The picture is of prototype, version 4. I welded a tube for the cross bar with solid rods, so I could play around with different lengths. If the cross bar is too short, it can be hard to return from full deflection, as it is closer to overcentering. Too wide looks bad and is more apt to catch on things. Now that I'm comfortable with the lengths, it will be a solid 3/4" rod. I'm also toying around with an electric linear actuator for a future project. The rod has holes drilled in the end with the ends flaired, so as not to cut the line. The end of the sprit has 3 holes. One for the clevis for the turning block and the others for the adjustment lines which are secured with end knots. The block you see behind the light follows a turning block on the starboard back portion of the bow pulpit, so I could get all the control lines to the port side of the boat in a clean fashion. You can see pictures of the lines run through power cleats in the photo forum. This allows one person to easily adjust all the controls. My shop is set up for metal fabrication, including aluminum welding, so all the fabrication was done in my spare time.
The picture is of prototype, version 4. I welded a tube for the cross bar with solid rods, so I could play around with different lengths. If the cross bar is too short, it can be hard to return from full deflection, as it is closer to overcentering. Too wide looks bad and is more apt to catch on things. Now that I'm comfortable with the lengths, it will be a solid 3/4" rod. I'm also toying around with an electric linear actuator for a future project. The rod has holes drilled in the end with the ends flaired, so as not to cut the line. The end of the sprit has 3 holes. One for the clevis for the turning block and the others for the adjustment lines which are secured with end knots. The block you see behind the light follows a turning block on the starboard back portion of the bow pulpit, so I could get all the control lines to the port side of the boat in a clean fashion. You can see pictures of the lines run through power cleats in the photo forum. This allows one person to easily adjust all the controls. My shop is set up for metal fabrication, including aluminum welding, so all the fabrication was done in my spare time.
Last Details please
I just returned from HomeDepot looking for the proper 1" aluminum tubing. The only tubing they have is Electrical Metal Tubing (EMT) or Intermediate Metal Conduit (IMC). The "Schedule 40" tubing, they carry, is plastic and used for drinking water. Where did you come by your aluminum tubing and an aluminum cap for the bottom of the strut at the bow eye. Also, do you have problems with piviting the sprit due to the center of the arc being different for the sprit and the strut? I just picked up on the fact that you have more photos in the photo forum. I'll go look for more details. Thanks, Brigg
I just returned from HomeDepot looking for the proper 1" aluminum tubing. The only tubing they have is Electrical Metal Tubing (EMT) or Intermediate Metal Conduit (IMC). The "Schedule 40" tubing, they carry, is plastic and used for drinking water. Where did you come by your aluminum tubing and an aluminum cap for the bottom of the strut at the bow eye. Also, do you have problems with piviting the sprit due to the center of the arc being different for the sprit and the strut? I just picked up on the fact that you have more photos in the photo forum. I'll go look for more details. Thanks, Brigg
Try this link for metals...
I purchased different things from them that was used on H260 - Java. You name they will have it. Jim S/V Java
I purchased different things from them that was used on H260 - Java. You name they will have it. Jim S/V Java
I get aluminum
from a local steel company, as I use it in other various projects. Anyone that is capable of welding aluminum, would most likely have access to aluminum. The cap on the bottom came from using a hole saw on 1/4" aluminum flat, which I welded to the tube. The swiveling snap shackle that connects to the bow eye keeps the strut from binding as it swings through it's arc.
from a local steel company, as I use it in other various projects. Anyone that is capable of welding aluminum, would most likely have access to aluminum. The cap on the bottom came from using a hole saw on 1/4" aluminum flat, which I welded to the tube. The swiveling snap shackle that connects to the bow eye keeps the strut from binding as it swings through it's arc.
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