Hi Mark My wife and I have had it with the 240 jib cleats. In addition to being impossible to manage singlehanded, they have now developed the habit of popping loose at random times--usually while on a close reach. We found the photos of your cleat modification in the archives and have printed them out. Very impressive work. My question is, how did you make the stainless steel plate? I assume we could go to a machine shop but wonder how pricey that would be. Did you ever consider have the teak base be larger and serve the function now served by the stainless plate? This might look a little bulkier but would be easier for someone like me (not a mechanical wizard) to install. Thanks for your input. I always find your responses to postings to be helpful. Bill Welsch s/v Renewal
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
K
Ken Shubert
Cleat Crazy
Now that we have Spinlocks for the halyards let's work on those darned jib sheet cleats. Ours don't pop loose but they're sure in the wrong place. I've even tried wrapping a turn on the winch and using the far aft cleats. At least they're back where the tiller is but it takes a lot of line. What's the solution? Ken S/V Wouff Hong
Now that we have Spinlocks for the halyards let's work on those darned jib sheet cleats. Ours don't pop loose but they're sure in the wrong place. I've even tried wrapping a turn on the winch and using the far aft cleats. At least they're back where the tiller is but it takes a lot of line. What's the solution? Ken S/V Wouff Hong
M
Mark Kissel
You certainly could...
...but you realize you're adding more maintenance work. I chose stainless for the simple reason that my brother had a scrap piece that he gave me for the job. You could make them from aluminum but I don't think they would hold up as well. I have recently noticed that both of my teak risers have begun to crack. While not as pretty, marine board would hold up much better. I think several people have switched to the PX cleats with good results. I'm still a little skeptical about the PX when subjected to the side loads that I frequently apply to the cam cleat fairleads. I'd love to hear from those that have made this change. Bill, I guess the bottom line is that you could use any material; it's really just a cover for the screw hole left by the old jam cleat. I think you've told me before that you are a woodworker. I'm sure that you can come up with an aesthetically pleasing, as well as functional, teak base. Snap a pic and please share it with all in the photo forum. Whatever you use, you will be most happy with the change. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/98H240
...but you realize you're adding more maintenance work. I chose stainless for the simple reason that my brother had a scrap piece that he gave me for the job. You could make them from aluminum but I don't think they would hold up as well. I have recently noticed that both of my teak risers have begun to crack. While not as pretty, marine board would hold up much better. I think several people have switched to the PX cleats with good results. I'm still a little skeptical about the PX when subjected to the side loads that I frequently apply to the cam cleat fairleads. I'd love to hear from those that have made this change. Bill, I guess the bottom line is that you could use any material; it's really just a cover for the screw hole left by the old jam cleat. I think you've told me before that you are a woodworker. I'm sure that you can come up with an aesthetically pleasing, as well as functional, teak base. Snap a pic and please share it with all in the photo forum. Whatever you use, you will be most happy with the change. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/98H240
S
Steve Gautney
The PX s work fine for hand tightened sheets
I installed the Spinlock PXs without risers or the available blocks from Spinlock (they are as expensive as the cleats). These seem to work well . . .from the cockpit I can "pop" up the cam (open) by pulling upward on the sheet . . .and lock them into place with a similar downward motion. I might mention that I use fairly heavy sheets . . .almost 1/2 inch line. The stiffness of the line adds to the ease of cleating . . .but it is a bit of a drag in extremely light air sailing.
I installed the Spinlock PXs without risers or the available blocks from Spinlock (they are as expensive as the cleats). These seem to work well . . .from the cockpit I can "pop" up the cam (open) by pulling upward on the sheet . . .and lock them into place with a similar downward motion. I might mention that I use fairly heavy sheets . . .almost 1/2 inch line. The stiffness of the line adds to the ease of cleating . . .but it is a bit of a drag in extremely light air sailing.
R
Rick Webb
A whole lot easier hole fix
Simply put some 5200 around the hole and put a short screw in it a 1/4 X 20 1 inch long should do it.
Simply put some 5200 around the hole and put a short screw in it a 1/4 X 20 1 inch long should do it.
P
Paul Jordan
I did the same modification...
with a few differences. First, I too used Mark K.'s photos as a guide for how to proceed, but I made my mounting plates out of 1/8" thick plate aluminum, which I had on hand. I finished it by wet sanding with a 600 grit wet or dry paper. Gives a nice "brushed" appearance. As for aluminum vs. stainless, my reasoning was as follows: I have the aluminum, it is easily worked (I used a dremel tool to cut it and round the edges and corners) and it should last for years. Your mast and boom are aluminum, right? I do not think corrosion will be an issue. Second, do not try to make your own risers out of teak or anything else: Harken already makes the product you need. If you are using their 356 model cam with fairlead, they make a 7/8" flat riser for it. This is what I used and the result is not only pleasing to the eye, it works great. I did these mods back in APril and have sailed in some stiff winds since. The risers ARE high enough to prevent accidental uncleating and the whole setup works great. My wife, who usually handles the jib sheets, is thrilled and swears by the changes I made. If anyone is interested, I can scan photos I have of the install and post them. Paul Jordan
with a few differences. First, I too used Mark K.'s photos as a guide for how to proceed, but I made my mounting plates out of 1/8" thick plate aluminum, which I had on hand. I finished it by wet sanding with a 600 grit wet or dry paper. Gives a nice "brushed" appearance. As for aluminum vs. stainless, my reasoning was as follows: I have the aluminum, it is easily worked (I used a dremel tool to cut it and round the edges and corners) and it should last for years. Your mast and boom are aluminum, right? I do not think corrosion will be an issue. Second, do not try to make your own risers out of teak or anything else: Harken already makes the product you need. If you are using their 356 model cam with fairlead, they make a 7/8" flat riser for it. This is what I used and the result is not only pleasing to the eye, it works great. I did these mods back in APril and have sailed in some stiff winds since. The risers ARE high enough to prevent accidental uncleating and the whole setup works great. My wife, who usually handles the jib sheets, is thrilled and swears by the changes I made. If anyone is interested, I can scan photos I have of the install and post them. Paul Jordan
R
Ron Mehringer
Paul: by all means, please post photos
A picture is worth a 1000 words, so posting a photo would be a help. Thanks
A picture is worth a 1000 words, so posting a photo would be a help. Thanks
- Status
- Not open for further replies.