flushing outboard at slip

[kpgraci]

Due to the untimely demise of my former outboard I intend to treat the new one a bit better, that includes flushing after each use. For a boat living in a slip the only way I can see this happening is to remove the motor from the boat. If I'm going to do that I'll just throw it in the truck and take it home after every trip...doable with this motor at 57#, but not my previous that weighed in a 85#. I sail in brackish water, and a lot of other boats at the marina have outboards.

How do other kicker motor sailors handle this? I've never seen anyone carrying their motor non seen anyone flushing either.

 

[Nom De Guerre]

Although I've never tried it myself, there was one fellow with a Catalina 22 who positioned a bin (like a garbage bin or large bucket) underneath the OB leg, loaded the bin with fresh water from a hose, and then lowered the motor into the bin. He ran it that way for a minute, drawing the fresh water from in, rather than the salt water from out.

This might not work so well if you're on a mooring without a calm sea.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Two ways, well, maybe three

If the engine is on a bracket, tilt it up, put a 5 gallon bucket over the lower unit, fill that with water and run the engine. Then just dump the water and leave the engine tilted. I do this on a small outboard.

There is a Flushing bag available- made from heavy coated material, that is water proof. Sold for outdrive boats. Has ropes attached to lash to boat, a dump line at the bottom, and a hose attachment to fill. You pull it up over the lower unit, fill with fresh water, flush the engine, and then just leave it full of fresh, hanging over the lower unit. I use one of those on the Meridian, because the engine is in a well and takes a half hour and two people to remove and can't be tilted out of the water.

Here's a link to flushing bags-

http://www.burgees.com/FlushingBag/

Thirdly- many of the newer engines have built in flushing methods. I know the 8 HP Yamaha does. You just attach a hose up by the power head and turn the water on. It completely back flushes the system, without the need to run the engine.

 

[shanester]

If you do remove the motor while in your slip, make sure you tie a line from the motor to the dock or boat cleat just in case. A spare dock line is a nice diameter to handle just in case you have to utilize it. The line needs to be long enough to get the motor on to the boat and then on to the dock before untying. It makes me feel better to do this when I remove mine. I do like the idea of those flush bags that TSBB 2 recommends. In any case it does look like that raisable motor bracket will be in your future sooner than you think.

 

[Winkfish]

Ken, do you have water at your slip? If so, maybe rig a mount on your stern rail. Use a halyard or something to pull the OB from its operating mount to the rail mount, hook up your hose, and flush it. I think if you merely tilt it so the lower unit is out of the water, the fuel will run out and it won't even start.

Having said all that, I have many friends with camps in Delacroix who keep their boats down there. They run it in the marsh, bring it back to their camps, put them on hoists, and they NEVER flush their motors. Nor do the locals down there. no problems in at least 10 years.

Myself, I trailer my boat to Hopedale a bunch. I flush it maybe once a month. No problems yet (knock on wood).

I think it's more important to run your motor often, like once per week, whether you "use" it or not. I don't think the lake's brackish water is so bad for your motor.

 

[Brian D]

With my older 9.9 Yamaha (about 100#) I used two methods.

First was a pair of pressure cups at the intake. Attached the cups, turned on the flow of fresh water, put the motor back into the water and started. I will taste the exit water to make sure it was fresh.

Second method was to use a very heavy, industrial trash bag. Put the shaft in the bag and lower the unit into the water. The pressure will cause the bag to hug the motor. It must be heavy duty to prevent the edges of the prop from cutting the bag. Place a hose in the bag and start the fresh water flow. After a few minutes of filling the bag, start the motor and taste for fresh water. WARNING. Using a bag like this (or a bucket/trash can) could cause outside water incursion. I noticed as I filled the bag/bucket with water it would equalize the pressure and sink. One must have a method of securing the bag/bucket to the motor while filling with fresh water.

Currently my new 9.9 Yamaha has a flushing hose. So it makes matters easier. My 2.5 sits on my stern rail, but I have to place in on the swim step in a bucket to flush. It does not weigh much so holding it in the bucket is no problem. Starting it while in the bucket can be a little tricky but I do manage.

You should specify the motor and the method of mounting it in the boat. Is it stern mounted or well mounted?

 

[Merlin Clark]

I see Defender has a flushing adapter for our sized Tohatsu http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|215570|1794283|1825671|1825674&id=569248
I don't know where it threads in, did you get the owners manual for your new motor Ken?

 

[Merlin Clark]

Ooops, found the owners manual at tohatsu.com http://www.tohatsu.com/tech_info/own_man_pdfs/Toh_MFS4B_5B_6B_003-11059-6.pdf
flushing instructions are on page 34. Sounds far more difficult than a bag or bucket.

 

[Nom De Guerre]

Ooops, found the owners manual at tohatsu.com http://www.tohatsu.com/tech_info/own_man_pdfs/Toh_MFS4B_5B_6B_003-11059-6.pdf
flushing instructions are on page 34. Sounds far more difficult than a bag or bucket.

Great research!

That being said, I doubt you gain much, if anything, following those instructions rather than bagging/bucketing it.

 

[kpgraci]

I see Defender has a flushing adapter for our sized Tohatsu http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|215570|1794283|1825671|1825674&id=569248
I don't know where it threads in, did you get the owners manual for your new motor Ken?

Under the engine there are several bolts, the largest is the flush plug, that's where it screws in. The problem is you need to tape shut the lower intake (by the prop) to use the flush plug. Not an option in the water (although duct tape might hold long enough). The manual says to remove the prop, I'm sure that is just a safety thing, I would not do that myself.

I have water at the slip, but no stern rail. The bag looks like it would work. I tend to agree that the motor will not run in the upright position, even if it does I'd be concerned about engine lubrication.

I'll have to try it out, but it seems I could bag it while up, then lower it as I fill the bag. The bag I saw was 20" deep, enough to extend above the water line, with appropriate lines attached I think that's doable.

The lake water is often not very salty, but it depends on a lot of factors. I could probably be fine with once a month if it's a big ordeal, if it's easy I'll just do it every time.

 

[kpgraci]

If you do remove the motor while in your slip, make sure you tie a line from the motor to the dock or boat cleat just in case. A spare dock line is a nice diameter to handle just in case you have to utilize it. The line needs to be long enough to get the motor on to the boat and then on to the dock before untying. It makes me feel better to do this when I remove mine. I do like the idea of those flush bags that TSBB 2 recommends. In any case it does look like that raisable motor bracket will be in your future sooner than you think.

Good advice. I thought of a way to raise the mount I have now. There is a wood block bolted to the aluminum plate, I could get a board that extends above the plate by 5" or so, with the grain longways for strength, effectively raising the mounting point.

Not the same as a swing mount but if at max tilt I'm still in the water I'll do that. I probably could have been fine with a 20" shaft, but this will be nice in choppy water.

 

[kpgraci]

Ooops, found the owners manual at tohatsu.com http://www.tohatsu.com/tech_info/own_man_pdfs/Toh_MFS4B_5B_6B_003-11059-6.pdf
flushing instructions are on page 34. Sounds far more difficult than a bag or bucket.

Here's a crazy idea. I imagine fumbling with the flush plug at the back and under the engine over the water and all that can go wrong...what about permanently installing the flush attachment with a shot host ending in a shutoff valve? Then to flush it's just a matter of screwing a hose to the hose fitting and duct taping the inlet. I don't know how hot the flush fitting will get, but it can't be over 160* or so, probably a lot less.

 

[Merlin Clark]

That's a good one, just have to come up with a plug or clamp for the intake. Maybe a neoprene disc glued to a flat plate to seal it and a bungee to hold it in place? And a plug for the hose end so not to interrupt normal cooling.

 

[thedoctor]

The fishermen in South America / Mexico never flush.... I've run outboards
since 1954,,, never flush one yet... and todays engines are probably made
from better metal than in the past. IMHO

 

[kpgraci]

That's a good one, just have to come up with a plug or clamp for the intake. Maybe a neoprene disc glued to a flat plate to seal it and a bungee to hold it in place? And a plug for the hose end so not to interrupt normal cooling.

Neoprene plug and shock cord...that's golden.