flushing out the water heater

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Carl Gamble

The "Fresh Water Maintenance" article, in the reference library, states that the water heater needs to be off, when performing these steps. Does this just mean that the bleach/water mixture should not be run through the water heater or just that the flush mixture should not be heated. While draining out my fresh water tank, I also drained the water heater. The water heater was the source of the bad smelling water. If the bleach/water flush mixture is not to be run through the water heater, then what procedures should be followed to clean this out?
 
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Bill O'Donovan

Just me

But I try not to let anything in the hot water heater that I wouldn't be able to get out. As a result, I drain it off considerably in fall but don't add anti-freeze. Similarly, I wouldn't put the bleach formula in. The less stuff added, the better, at least with the water heater. But I could be wrong.
 
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Paul

Heater off

I haven't read the article, but I believe the concern is not to burn out the water heater heater element if the tank is emptied. Paul
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

"Off" as in "not on"...not heating water.

The bleach solution will damage the heating element and the anode if the unit is on while it's in there. It won't hurt a thing otherwise. However, if the hot water tank was the source of your odor, recommissioning won't cure it...neither will all the cleaning you can do to it. When ONLY the hot water is foul--hot water smells like rotten eggs, cold water is fine--it means that the anode in the tank has failed and needs to be replaced. Unless the tank itself is anodized aluminum, that's a quick and inexpensive repair...the anode is a zinc rod attached to the discharge fitting. Drain the tank, disconnnect the discharge hose, replace the fitting, reconnect the hose...you're done. If the tank is anodized aluminum, when the anodizing fails, the only cure is a new hot water tank...'cuz there's way to get the tank out of the cabinet or get to the inside of the tank to re-anodize it.
 
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