I have a teak and holly veneered floor that needs refinishing. Does anyone have any experience and can offer some advice? Did you remove the floor? Sand it? What did you finish it with? The board that covers the bilge is not sealed on the edges or on the bottom side so it is susceptible to rot and moisture from condensation or bilge water sloshing around. My tendency is to pull up all the boards and seal them with WEST epoxy to make them waterproof. Can't do any harm! Thanks dave
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gary jensen
sole refinishing
Three years ago I re-did the sole on my 36 Caaatalina. I removed the sole, sanded the sole lightly then varnished BOTH sides and the edges with two coats. It held up and looked great!!!!
Three years ago I re-did the sole on my 36 Caaatalina. I removed the sole, sanded the sole lightly then varnished BOTH sides and the edges with two coats. It held up and looked great!!!!
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Dave Viglierchio
Been There - Done That
My 1983 C-36 needed this work also. After reading all I could - I pulled up the boards, belt sanded the finish off, and applied 4 coats of polyurethane. The finish is beautiful and better quality than some I saw at the last boatshow. I took advice from these forums for the polyurethane and used a high gloss that was specifically for hardwood floors. I did put a coat on all sides to seal them. Be careful with the belt sander as the floor is a veneer but can take one good sanding without much trouble. I went through the top veneer a couple times along edges where it isn't very obvious. Another hint - use a sander with variable speed. I had mine up too fast and as the finish melted it gummed up the belt. After going through two belts per panel I slowed it down and as the finish came off in a dust one belt finished all the rest of the panels. Good luck, this is one project that really pays off in it's impact on your interior.
My 1983 C-36 needed this work also. After reading all I could - I pulled up the boards, belt sanded the finish off, and applied 4 coats of polyurethane. The finish is beautiful and better quality than some I saw at the last boatshow. I took advice from these forums for the polyurethane and used a high gloss that was specifically for hardwood floors. I did put a coat on all sides to seal them. Be careful with the belt sander as the floor is a veneer but can take one good sanding without much trouble. I went through the top veneer a couple times along edges where it isn't very obvious. Another hint - use a sander with variable speed. I had mine up too fast and as the finish melted it gummed up the belt. After going through two belts per panel I slowed it down and as the finish came off in a dust one belt finished all the rest of the panels. Good luck, this is one project that really pays off in it's impact on your interior.
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TOM MCNAMARA
floor boards
dont use a belt sander use an orbital sander. everyone is right about removing the floor and finishing both sides,but do both sides the same to prevent warping & one side pulling against the other. for my money i would use a semigloss to avoid slipping and a gloss finish will show every scratch and not to mention,dust and dirt, i live aboard
dont use a belt sander use an orbital sander. everyone is right about removing the floor and finishing both sides,but do both sides the same to prevent warping & one side pulling against the other. for my money i would use a semigloss to avoid slipping and a gloss finish will show every scratch and not to mention,dust and dirt, i live aboard
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Gene B.
Oil it
I've said it before, and here it is again. I use Teak Oil. I put on a thick coat and let it soak in for a day or two, then wipe. I do this once a year, and it looks great. Varnish is wonderful, but not for a surface that you walk on. Teak oil is self-healing, leaves a warm glow, smells great, is impossible to put on wrong, and isn't slippery. I wouldn't think of using anything else for the sole.
I've said it before, and here it is again. I use Teak Oil. I put on a thick coat and let it soak in for a day or two, then wipe. I do this once a year, and it looks great. Varnish is wonderful, but not for a surface that you walk on. Teak oil is self-healing, leaves a warm glow, smells great, is impossible to put on wrong, and isn't slippery. I wouldn't think of using anything else for the sole.
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Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net
Refinishing
Jan.8,2000 Dear David, When we tackled the floors on the Legend I sanded them down with a random orbit sander. It takes a deft hand to do this with a belt sander and not do damage. I used a polyurethane finish used to finish bowling alleys made by Harko. This has proven to be both tough and resilent. You might seal the edges of your floor with GITROT or a similar penetrating epoxy if you have rot issues and then refinish all surfaces with the clear coat. Definitely use a product designed for hardwood floors. As much as I like varnish it is a relatively soft, low tech finish that wears comparatively easily. Good luck with the project. Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net Aboard the Legend, Rodney Bay ,St. Lucia
Jan.8,2000 Dear David, When we tackled the floors on the Legend I sanded them down with a random orbit sander. It takes a deft hand to do this with a belt sander and not do damage. I used a polyurethane finish used to finish bowling alleys made by Harko. This has proven to be both tough and resilent. You might seal the edges of your floor with GITROT or a similar penetrating epoxy if you have rot issues and then refinish all surfaces with the clear coat. Definitely use a product designed for hardwood floors. As much as I like varnish it is a relatively soft, low tech finish that wears comparatively easily. Good luck with the project. Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net Aboard the Legend, Rodney Bay ,St. Lucia
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LaDonna Bubak - CatalinaOwners
Watco oil
Another option is Watco oil. It would be similar to teak oil but you can choose different colors. My folks refinished antiques for a living and dad used Watco on their cabin sole. First time he applied 5 coats, letting each soak in. Then a once/year application. It's really beautiful. LaDonna
Another option is Watco oil. It would be similar to teak oil but you can choose different colors. My folks refinished antiques for a living and dad used Watco on their cabin sole. First time he applied 5 coats, letting each soak in. Then a once/year application. It's really beautiful. LaDonna
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