Anyone know of a source in the NYC area to fabricate a replacement section of flooring? I have teak/oak veneer flooring and want to replace a delaminated section that is about three feet by two feet. Thanks!
floor board replacement
- Thread starter obsailor
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Kinda depends on what you mean by fabricate.
If you sort through the home depot cabinet plywood section you can find grain matches for a "teak substitute" and then stain it. The holly strips can be routed in and planed down pretty easily also.
tools needed:
layout tools (tape measure, pencil, straight edge T-ee square etc)
router with 1/4" straight bit
at least 2 clamps
A straight piece of something that can completely go across your largest piece of work
table saw with rip fence
circular saw
hand plane, rasp and some sand paper for finishing
lay the old floor on the new plywood and mark the corners and any hold down holes, finger holes ect. Connect the dots with a straight edge. check your work. Use a circular saw and straight edge to cut out the straight line parts and get a "squared off" piece that is correctly dimensioned. Don't worry about the corners or any bevels/holes right now. It does need to be the right size as close as you can make it now though.
Using the old floor as a pattern mark the location of the holly strips. lightly mark the line. Determine the offset on your router, mine is 3" plus or minus the radius of the bit or 3 1/8 or 2 7/8". Place your straight edge at the offset and route a straight line about 2 plys deep all the way across. move the straight edge to the next line. repeat till you have all the holly strips routed out.
Set the table saw for 1/4" rip and have at it with some scrap wood. Test the scrap in the routed slot and adjust the rip fense as needed to make a nice snug fit. The take your "white wood" holly substitute and turn it into 1/4" wide strips. If your original white wood thickness was great enough you can the cut the strip in two. don't worry about getting an exact height we will take care of that later. The strips just need to fit in the slots, be longer than needed and have some sticking out of the slot when you install them. Cut any edge or trim pieces also.
Finish off the corners, bevels and other "squared off" parts with a rasp or hand plane. install the edges and hand plain to exact height and thickness. Install finger holes and round off the edges.
Sand with 150 grit, clean the surface and stain it with Minwax gunstock stain. There may be a teak stain out there but I have never found it in stock. Gunstock is pretty close. After the stain dries install the holly strips with gorrilla glue and a hammer. After the glue dries trim off the excess length and the hand plain the strips down to the level of the "teak".
seal with your favorite flavor of varnish
If you sort through the home depot cabinet plywood section you can find grain matches for a "teak substitute" and then stain it. The holly strips can be routed in and planed down pretty easily also.
tools needed:
layout tools (tape measure, pencil, straight edge T-ee square etc)
router with 1/4" straight bit
at least 2 clamps
A straight piece of something that can completely go across your largest piece of work
table saw with rip fence
circular saw
hand plane, rasp and some sand paper for finishing
lay the old floor on the new plywood and mark the corners and any hold down holes, finger holes ect. Connect the dots with a straight edge. check your work. Use a circular saw and straight edge to cut out the straight line parts and get a "squared off" piece that is correctly dimensioned. Don't worry about the corners or any bevels/holes right now. It does need to be the right size as close as you can make it now though.
Using the old floor as a pattern mark the location of the holly strips. lightly mark the line. Determine the offset on your router, mine is 3" plus or minus the radius of the bit or 3 1/8 or 2 7/8". Place your straight edge at the offset and route a straight line about 2 plys deep all the way across. move the straight edge to the next line. repeat till you have all the holly strips routed out.
Set the table saw for 1/4" rip and have at it with some scrap wood. Test the scrap in the routed slot and adjust the rip fense as needed to make a nice snug fit. The take your "white wood" holly substitute and turn it into 1/4" wide strips. If your original white wood thickness was great enough you can the cut the strip in two. don't worry about getting an exact height we will take care of that later. The strips just need to fit in the slots, be longer than needed and have some sticking out of the slot when you install them. Cut any edge or trim pieces also.
Finish off the corners, bevels and other "squared off" parts with a rasp or hand plane. install the edges and hand plain to exact height and thickness. Install finger holes and round off the edges.
Sand with 150 grit, clean the surface and stain it with Minwax gunstock stain. There may be a teak stain out there but I have never found it in stock. Gunstock is pretty close. After the stain dries install the holly strips with gorrilla glue and a hammer. After the glue dries trim off the excess length and the hand plain the strips down to the level of the "teak".
seal with your favorite flavor of varnish
If you want something that will look good and last a long time, please avoid HD for marine applications. In the NY area, the best place for good marine quality wood supplies is Condon's, in White Plains. They will likely have several thicknesses of Teak & Holly veneer marine grade plywood to choose from. They also carry lots of solid mahoghany and teak stock in different sizes, as well as all sorts of veneers . In CT, Connecticut Plywood, in Milford (right close to the North Sails loft, btw) is where I go.
thanks Paul, I will contact Condons. Bill, thanks for the info but I live in an apt in the middle of Manhattan that makes this work impossible!
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