Float Switch?
- Thread starter 1st boat
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1ST,
Electrical problems are harder to troubleshoot than mechanical problems. Mechanical problems are easier to pinpoint because of their nature.
Think of your electrical system as if it were a plumbing system. Instead of water running thru pipes, ac/dc are running.
First thing you need on hand is:
make a couple of wire leads, (3) of color coded wire. Add alligator clips to both ends. Depending on length of boat, make these extra long enough to reach from the transom to your electrical panel, and from the bow lights to panel.
Second, have & learn what & how a voltmeter does.
Third, Keep several different conductor wire types (2/3 conductor)and/or single spools. I recommend, looking into your panel for the different sizes of wiring to have on hand.
Fourth, keep an assortment of end connectors. You can buy a box of assorted types & sizes. Also keep on hand spare fuses to match what you currently use. Crimping tools etc. Now you have a pretty complete electrical box.
With the above, you can troubleshoot your electrical problems @ the dock, underway & by yourself.
Now getting back to your problem, if you suspect a bad wire, simply bypass it to your connection @ the elec. panel using the test leads you have made. This is the quickest way of troubleshooting. Of course, check fuses & look for any loose or corroded connections in the circuit.
Most pump/float wiring I've seen is less than admiral. Why make alot of connections in the wet part of your bilge? When I replace these, I use a fused terminal block right off the bilge high and dry. I run the wiring to this & connect on the other side of the block the wiring back to the panel.
I know it's a double fuse, but that's how I roll. The fused block is not necessary if you have easy access to all your fuses @ the panel. Some newer circuits I've added do not have a spot on the front panel. I did mount a fuse block (6 connector) inside the panel for the extra circuits.
It shouldn't take long to discover the culprit, and you won't have to ask friends for help....
CR
Electrical problems are harder to troubleshoot than mechanical problems. Mechanical problems are easier to pinpoint because of their nature.
Think of your electrical system as if it were a plumbing system. Instead of water running thru pipes, ac/dc are running.
First thing you need on hand is:
make a couple of wire leads, (3) of color coded wire. Add alligator clips to both ends. Depending on length of boat, make these extra long enough to reach from the transom to your electrical panel, and from the bow lights to panel.
Second, have & learn what & how a voltmeter does.
Third, Keep several different conductor wire types (2/3 conductor)and/or single spools. I recommend, looking into your panel for the different sizes of wiring to have on hand.
Fourth, keep an assortment of end connectors. You can buy a box of assorted types & sizes. Also keep on hand spare fuses to match what you currently use. Crimping tools etc. Now you have a pretty complete electrical box.
With the above, you can troubleshoot your electrical problems @ the dock, underway & by yourself.
Now getting back to your problem, if you suspect a bad wire, simply bypass it to your connection @ the elec. panel using the test leads you have made. This is the quickest way of troubleshooting. Of course, check fuses & look for any loose or corroded connections in the circuit.
Most pump/float wiring I've seen is less than admiral. Why make alot of connections in the wet part of your bilge? When I replace these, I use a fused terminal block right off the bilge high and dry. I run the wiring to this & connect on the other side of the block the wiring back to the panel.
I know it's a double fuse, but that's how I roll. The fused block is not necessary if you have easy access to all your fuses @ the panel. Some newer circuits I've added do not have a spot on the front panel. I did mount a fuse block (6 connector) inside the panel for the extra circuits.
It shouldn't take long to discover the culprit, and you won't have to ask friends for help....
CR
Capt. Ron always gives good advice. I think his boat must be as tough as a brick house by now. Just another food for thought. They sell new bilge pumps with built in internal float switches. One less wire to worry about. It is cheaper to buy just the switch, but if your pump is old & tired looking anyway, then just bite the bullet & scrap them both & start fresh. Nothing is more important or worth while then having a working bilge pump. It can cost you your boat if it fails when no one is around & a leak develops. But if the wiring is the real culprit, then get rid of it & start fresh. I have a W. Marine bilge pump switch which is wired directly to the battery so it still works when the main batt. switch is turned off. It has its own fuse mounted in the switch which is located up high, next to the main panel. That way it is switched to automatic all the time, is easy to view the l.e.d. light to verify operation & easy to check & replace the fuse should it blow. Fix it right the first time & you won't regret it.
JR,
Thanks dude, I'm about to check on a few boats here in rain soaked Florida's left coast. Funny, as most of these boats have water problems when it rains. And, guess where that water will end up....yup, da bilge.
A number of years ago, I was told by an old "sea-salt" that most people use the wrong thinking on sizing a bilge pump for their boat.
He said that most think, a smaller boat, a smaller pump, when in fact the opposite is true. He went on to say that for example a 30 footer has a smaller bilge so it takes less water to create a bigger problem. His recommendation was to put the largest GPH pump you can fit in a smaller bilge. It made sense to me so my last 2 pumps have been oversized.
The pump I have now is 5000 GPH. I've never had good results with Waste Marine & Jabsco equipment. Every WM pump & floatswitch Only lasted 1.5 to 2 years for me. I'm not saying they are inferior, but the pump/float I have now (can't recall the brand but got it @ WM) comes with a greater warranty & better performance characteristics.
As for intergral floatswitch pumps, I had three & was not impressed with their longevity. This could be just my bad luck, as Murphy probably lives right next store to me....
CR
Thanks dude, I'm about to check on a few boats here in rain soaked Florida's left coast. Funny, as most of these boats have water problems when it rains. And, guess where that water will end up....yup, da bilge.
A number of years ago, I was told by an old "sea-salt" that most people use the wrong thinking on sizing a bilge pump for their boat.
He said that most think, a smaller boat, a smaller pump, when in fact the opposite is true. He went on to say that for example a 30 footer has a smaller bilge so it takes less water to create a bigger problem. His recommendation was to put the largest GPH pump you can fit in a smaller bilge. It made sense to me so my last 2 pumps have been oversized.
The pump I have now is 5000 GPH. I've never had good results with Waste Marine & Jabsco equipment. Every WM pump & floatswitch Only lasted 1.5 to 2 years for me. I'm not saying they are inferior, but the pump/float I have now (can't recall the brand but got it @ WM) comes with a greater warranty & better performance characteristics.
As for intergral floatswitch pumps, I had three & was not impressed with their longevity. This could be just my bad luck, as Murphy probably lives right next store to me....
CR
I re-ran my bilge pump and rewired it this past year. It is an easy task. If you notice the wiring goes from the switch panel, under the nav station, under the floor, to the bilge. If you can have someone hold the end of the wire going down to the bilge pump and then go up to the area where it comes out in the switch panel. If you guys can pull the wire and the other person feels it then tape the old wire to one end and pull the new wire through the same way.
For short runs to new areas use a coat hanger in a similar fashion.
For short runs to new areas use a coat hanger in a similar fashion.
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