Flange adaptors ????whats up

[woodster]

while ordering some flange adaptors the other day i went to several sites .......looking for 3/4 inch ... much to my schgrin every site i went to said they were out of stock or were discontinued......anyone know whats up with that ......

regards

woody

 

[RAD]

Help me out here......what do you mean by flange adaptors.....engine flange couplings

 

[woodster]

no the flange adaptors that you mount the ball valves to ...the are triangle at the base and have 3 mounting holes to fasten to the hull...they are pipe threaded on the ball valve side and stright threaded on the hull side to accept the mushroom through hull fitting the ones like Main Sail usesin his demonstration of seacocks.....

this is about one of the coolest things i have ever seen in relation to sucking water out of the ocean or draining your sink.....you can change the valves with out haveing to haul out your boat.....

regards

woody

 

[mitiempo]

woody means these:

 

[Maine Sail]

Hamilton Marine should have them. Item # GRO-IBVF-750

3/4" (LINK)

All Sizes (LINK)
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[woodster]

thanks Main...didnt check that site...every site i went to that sold them stated they were out of stock or had been discontinued....made me wonder what is going on with that item......i will ck stock with them today .....

regards

woody

 

[RichBone]

"you can change the valves with out haveing to haul out your boat....."
You can?

I've done it on live water lines at work but I'd hesitate to try it on a boat in the water. Murphy's law and all.

 

[Maine Sail]

"you can change the valves with out haveing to haul out your boat....."
You can?

I've done it on live water lines at work but I'd hesitate to try it on a boat in the water. Murphy's law and all.

Yes quite easily. Plug the thru-hull, change the valve, un-plug the thru-hull..

 

[tommays]

I still think the Groco BV series is one of the best on the market with a bullet proof handle and stem and it can be serviced

 

[RichBone]

Sorry, but I'm missing something. How do you plug the thru-hull?

Rich

 

[woodster]

Sorry, but I'm missing something. How do you plug the thru-hull?

Rich

in the boat just unscrew the ball valve and very quickly stick a tapered wooden plug in the hole or they now make rubber tapered plugs...in the water locate the mushroom fitting on the hull and stick one of the plugs
i just mentioned for inside work...when done on the inside pull the plug and quickly screw the new valve back on....when through screwing the valve back on close the new valve and proceed to finish tighting it up...on the out side when finished installing the new valve jump in the water one more time and remove the plug......caution when working in cold water be aware of hypothermia

regards

woody

ps... dont attempt this under the influence...and only take a coffee break after the valve is back in the fitting and closed

 

[RichBone]

I understand now. I thought it was all done on the inside. I didn't know that you were plugging it outside in the water. Thanks

Rich

 

[woodster]

I understand now. I thought it was all done on the inside. I didn't know that you were plugging it outside in the water. Thanks

Rich

you can do it from the outside or the inside...personally i like the inside better...you may have a little water get in the boat but if you act fast it will not be much...have your wooden plug ready when you take off the old valve and stick it in the fiitting tight enough to stop the leak...then clean your pipe threads and put on new teflon tape and or your prefered pipe dope ...then remove the plug and very quickly install the new valve back on the fitting with the valve open in order to make lineing it up easyer ...when set.... close the valve and finish thighting it up...then hook up your hose and thghten the clamps and you are good to go.....

regards

woody

 

[FastOlson]

Generally, I LIKE it

Hamilton Marine should have them. Item # GRO-IBVF-750

3/4" (LINK)

All Sizes (LINK)
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Do you see any strength issue, comparing that base-plus-valve scheme with the one-piece bronze casting that incorporates a ball valve? (I am not questioning the worth of the design, just looking for some informed opinion...)
Thanks,
LB

 

[Maine Sail]

Do you see any strength issue, comparing that base-plus-valve scheme with the one-piece bronze casting that incorporates a ball valve? (I am not questioning the worth of the design, just looking for some informed opinion...)
Thanks,
LB

Have measured it against many other seacocks including Spartan and some old WC tapered cones and it is a very robust option. Nominal wall thickness on a 3/4" flange is just shy of 5mm thick at the base and at the NPT threads it is just shy of 3mm thick. The nominal wall thickness of an Apollo bronze 3/4" thru hull is 1.5mm or about as thick as a US penny.

So the 3/4" flanged adapter is about twice the thickness of a 3/4" thu-hull which builders like Hunter still slap valves onto, and we rarely hear of a failure. Ericson did the same thing only in Marelon. At double the thickness of a thru-hull wall I doubt you'd ever see one fail.

EDIT: For grins I just measured a very old and "robust" 1 1/2", not 3/4", tapered cone seacock I have in the barn. The nominal wall thickness was about 3mm.

They far exceed the ABYC strength requirement as do most bronze seacocks but the benefit of easily replacing the valve with a brand new one without affecting the integrity of the thru-hull and flange is a huge benefit....

If I was going to have permanently installed bronze seacocks they'd be Spartan's. Of course those run $300.00 +/- each and require yearly maintenance. Much easier to spin a new valve on every ten + years or so...