I need to fix the leaks in 3 of my six portlights. Is it something that I can do simply at the dock? I also need to replace my VHF coax from the mast head. Can I just pull it from the top down? Help! thanks
FIxing leaking windows
- Thread starter s/v Sweet Laraine
- Start date
Yes you can do them yourself.
On my boat it appears they bedded in the windows with plumbers putty.
I just unscrewwed the inner frames and pop them out. Clean and scrape the lip of the windows and the opening on the house. I also clean with an isopropyl alc wipe. Put down some butyl tap around the edge and replace, screw back in place. Dependant on the exact type of butyl tape you will need to cut away the excess and remove it after bedding the window in, being carefull not to pull any from under the window frame a razor or nice quality blade helps with this.
On the glass to frame joint if that is the source on leaks I get a good quality caulk like Dow 795 and put a dab on the glass. Using a rubber grouting tool (think small trowel with angle edge) I force said sealant into the seem between the rubber/metal and glass. It takes very little caulk per window(thumbnail dab or two) and due to the rubber trowel leaves almost no buildup on the glass or frame.
Do not use silicone were it will contact fiberglass, use a nice sticky butyl rubber tape.
Here are some pictures. I have to finish my windows this weekend. I did 3 in about 2 hours but was rained out.
http://svknotaclew.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/20131201-064836.jpg
http://svknotaclew.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/20131201-064605.jpg
http://svknotaclew.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/20131201-064547.jpg
You may need to pick up some extra stainless screws as some may be stripped, corroded/broken or missing. Mine were.
On my boat it appears they bedded in the windows with plumbers putty.
I just unscrewwed the inner frames and pop them out. Clean and scrape the lip of the windows and the opening on the house. I also clean with an isopropyl alc wipe. Put down some butyl tap around the edge and replace, screw back in place. Dependant on the exact type of butyl tape you will need to cut away the excess and remove it after bedding the window in, being carefull not to pull any from under the window frame a razor or nice quality blade helps with this.
On the glass to frame joint if that is the source on leaks I get a good quality caulk like Dow 795 and put a dab on the glass. Using a rubber grouting tool (think small trowel with angle edge) I force said sealant into the seem between the rubber/metal and glass. It takes very little caulk per window(thumbnail dab or two) and due to the rubber trowel leaves almost no buildup on the glass or frame.
Do not use silicone were it will contact fiberglass, use a nice sticky butyl rubber tape.
Here are some pictures. I have to finish my windows this weekend. I did 3 in about 2 hours but was rained out.
http://svknotaclew.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/20131201-064836.jpg
http://svknotaclew.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/20131201-064605.jpg
http://svknotaclew.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/20131201-064547.jpg
You may need to pick up some extra stainless screws as some may be stripped, corroded/broken or missing. Mine were.
The second half of the following post may give you food for thought
http://www.sailingseadragon.com/Ports.htm
Garner
http://www.sailingseadragon.com/Ports.htm
Garner
Down the mast yes, but through the deck if your boat is anything like mine there is a junction in the coax inside the mast at the step and the rg8 is sealed in there with some really nice and flex able sealant. Not to mention 30+ years of bird poo that somehow makes it in there.
Most likely If you do not want to unstep the mast you will need to make a new hole in the deck and side of mast to run/fish a new coax leaving the old in place. I would suggest taking the mast down.
Catalina Direct sells a kit for resealing windows. It includes new rubber seals, more than enough caulk, and directions, for a reasonable price. I did all six of my fixed windows with complete resolution of bad leaks.
C30 fixed window reseal kit installation
Hi Jwhy I am going to buy this kit for my C30. Is it necessary to silicone the u shaped vinyl gasket to the glass and then silicone the vinyl gasket into the aluminum frame? How did you install yours thanks?
Grommets
Just a heads up,I had 3 leaky ports ,looked to be at the latches.
Put new grommets on latches at 30 cents each, use sylicome grease .
No leaks. Great 1st thing to try as they do wear down easy.
Just a heads up,I had 3 leaky ports ,looked to be at the latches.
Put new grommets on latches at 30 cents each, use sylicome grease .
No leaks. Great 1st thing to try as they do wear down easy.
If the rubber is in good shape, cleaning them with water & dish soap, then coating them with Vaseline will usually get them to seal.
All my ports leaked in a hard rain when we bought the boat. I do this about every third year and she's tight as a drum. The seals get dried out and the Vaseline will swell the seals slightly and lubricate them. Just wipe off the excess when you're done.
Best of all I paid about a buck from a travel sized Vaseline which should last another 20 years ! :dance:
All my ports leaked in a hard rain when we bought the boat. I do this about every third year and she's tight as a drum. The seals get dried out and the Vaseline will swell the seals slightly and lubricate them. Just wipe off the excess when you're done.
Best of all I paid about a buck from a travel sized Vaseline which should last another 20 years ! :dance:
SL,
Having spent my career in the design field, I automatically look at many mechanical designs for evaluating & assessing any flaws.
By design, the split portal design was destined to fail. Looking at portals, the only reason I can fathom for making it two-piece, was in product fabrication costs. The two piece design worked well for the manuf. & Catalina Yachts, not for the buyer.
However, not going with a one piece frame, a seal would not last. Imperfections in the cabin top molds for a mounting surface was the first problem. The second problem was the two piece frame itself (REALLY? what poor engineer approved this design?). The third problem was the aluminum gauge thickness used. The fourth problem (based on my 1980) was no coring was used in the cabin top vertical sides around the portal cutouts.
I have three portal cutouts that do not have a flat mounting surface, so in some areas, I have a 1/4" gap. Add to this the two part frame......a design meant to fail. I cannot tighten up on the frame as doing this would deform the flimsy thin frame. Add to this an absence of wood coring where tightening, the outer & inner shells deflect.
I've removed the portals three times over the years now & I still have leaks. I will now attempt a different type of fix & depending on the outcome, will post my findings at a later date.
CR
Having spent my career in the design field, I automatically look at many mechanical designs for evaluating & assessing any flaws.
By design, the split portal design was destined to fail. Looking at portals, the only reason I can fathom for making it two-piece, was in product fabrication costs. The two piece design worked well for the manuf. & Catalina Yachts, not for the buyer.
However, not going with a one piece frame, a seal would not last. Imperfections in the cabin top molds for a mounting surface was the first problem. The second problem was the two piece frame itself (REALLY? what poor engineer approved this design?). The third problem was the aluminum gauge thickness used. The fourth problem (based on my 1980) was no coring was used in the cabin top vertical sides around the portal cutouts.
I have three portal cutouts that do not have a flat mounting surface, so in some areas, I have a 1/4" gap. Add to this the two part frame......a design meant to fail. I cannot tighten up on the frame as doing this would deform the flimsy thin frame. Add to this an absence of wood coring where tightening, the outer & inner shells deflect.
I've removed the portals three times over the years now & I still have leaks. I will now attempt a different type of fix & depending on the outcome, will post my findings at a later date.
CR