Let me make sure I got this right, to fix crazing (spider cracks), I need to dremel through the gelcoat, or until I get paste the crack, then fill with epoxy. Just want to make sure I got that right from "This Old Boat".
Fixing crazing
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PaulK
Cure worse than disease?
Crazing comes in a lot of different degrees. To warrant going after with a dremel and epoxy, You should have CRAZING that not only includes cracks in the gelcoat, but pretty deep fissures that extend through to the fiberglass underneath, and maybe beyond. Throwing a heavy metal winch handle up in the air to the first set of spreaders and then having it land on deck or in the cockpit might cause this sort of damage. "Regular" crazing, around stress points like cleats or cabin corners, isn't necessarily as deep, and doesn't require such drastic action, since it's mostly only cosmetic. If the crazing is not widespread, and is really only in the gelcoat, and not in the actual fiberglass, you CAN fix it by opening it up with a dremel and filling with new GELCOAT that matches the original gelcoat color. (Getting the colors to match is NOT EASY - see if you can get some from your boat's builder, if at all possible.) If the crazing is all over the deck, for example, and it really makes the whole boat look crummy, the best fix may be to paint it with a 2-part polyurethane. The primer coats (note the use of the plural!) will fill the cracks and you won't see them again for several years. (There is a LOT of sanding and prep-work involved with this approach.) If you use the dremel/epoxy route, the epoxy will end up turning brown due to UV degradation from sunlight. (I know because that's what we did on our boat .) The cracks are filled and smooth, but the boat is covered with brown splotches. To protect the epoxy and keep it from turning brown, you have to paint over it . If you have to paint over epoxy, and the paint will fill the cracks by itself, why epoxy first; why not just paint it first and be done with it? (Unless there are structural things involved, of course.) So, like any boat question, there's no simple answer. Have fun!
Crazing comes in a lot of different degrees. To warrant going after with a dremel and epoxy, You should have CRAZING that not only includes cracks in the gelcoat, but pretty deep fissures that extend through to the fiberglass underneath, and maybe beyond. Throwing a heavy metal winch handle up in the air to the first set of spreaders and then having it land on deck or in the cockpit might cause this sort of damage. "Regular" crazing, around stress points like cleats or cabin corners, isn't necessarily as deep, and doesn't require such drastic action, since it's mostly only cosmetic. If the crazing is not widespread, and is really only in the gelcoat, and not in the actual fiberglass, you CAN fix it by opening it up with a dremel and filling with new GELCOAT that matches the original gelcoat color. (Getting the colors to match is NOT EASY - see if you can get some from your boat's builder, if at all possible.) If the crazing is all over the deck, for example, and it really makes the whole boat look crummy, the best fix may be to paint it with a 2-part polyurethane. The primer coats (note the use of the plural!) will fill the cracks and you won't see them again for several years. (There is a LOT of sanding and prep-work involved with this approach.) If you use the dremel/epoxy route, the epoxy will end up turning brown due to UV degradation from sunlight. (I know because that's what we did on our boat .) The cracks are filled and smooth, but the boat is covered with brown splotches. To protect the epoxy and keep it from turning brown, you have to paint over it . If you have to paint over epoxy, and the paint will fill the cracks by itself, why epoxy first; why not just paint it first and be done with it? (Unless there are structural things involved, of course.) So, like any boat question, there's no simple answer. Have fun!
T
Tim
Strength
I have not repaired it myself yet but have read that crazing is ultimately caused by flexing which is a result of a weak area. Through flexing caused by a winch, foot traffic or whatever the crazing occurs. Repairing the cracks will only last so long, the area underneath needs to be beefed up some.
I have not repaired it myself yet but have read that crazing is ultimately caused by flexing which is a result of a weak area. Through flexing caused by a winch, foot traffic or whatever the crazing occurs. Repairing the cracks will only last so long, the area underneath needs to be beefed up some.
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PaulK
Reading
This month's Cruising World has a good play-by-play on crazing repairs, including relevant photos. Read first, and wear gloves. The goop gets all over everything.
This month's Cruising World has a good play-by-play on crazing repairs, including relevant photos. Read first, and wear gloves. The goop gets all over everything.
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