Need fix for leaky side windows. Is outside caucking sufficient? It looks like a major undertaking to remove the panes, and I'm not convinced I need to do that...
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Silicon
I used clear silicon caulk around my windows. Will it last? I don't know but in the first trial, no leaks. If it does start to leak at some point, it is easy to remove and replace for another dry period. I didn't want to remove any windows so this was easy and so far effective. Good luck and let us know what you decide to do. Ken
I used clear silicon caulk around my windows. Will it last? I don't know but in the first trial, no leaks. If it does start to leak at some point, it is easy to remove and replace for another dry period. I didn't want to remove any windows so this was easy and so far effective. Good luck and let us know what you decide to do. Ken
Try this instead...
Silicone really has no place on a boat. The problem comes when you want to replace it later. Silicone will not stick to cured silicone - or even the slightest trace that remains after endless scraping etc. The second application inevitably starts leaking. Use 3M 4200 (not 5200!). It will adhere to itself in the future and is formulated to resist UV exposure. But if you have leaks between the glass and frame/gasket there is something amazing to try. It's called "flowable silicone" and is designed to wick into cracks. It was designed for windshield leaks and is available at most automotive stores. Chris
Silicone really has no place on a boat. The problem comes when you want to replace it later. Silicone will not stick to cured silicone - or even the slightest trace that remains after endless scraping etc. The second application inevitably starts leaking. Use 3M 4200 (not 5200!). It will adhere to itself in the future and is formulated to resist UV exposure. But if you have leaks between the glass and frame/gasket there is something amazing to try. It's called "flowable silicone" and is designed to wick into cracks. It was designed for windshield leaks and is available at most automotive stores. Chris
Silicone Seal
Silicone Sealants are awesome, they work well and there is little problem reprepping a new seal on a previously sealed surface. The original sealant on many Macgregor windows is of course silicone sealant. By working carefully, one can remove the original sealant and reseal sucessfully. Just because it is used on a boat does not magically remove the properties of silicone sealant. It is used sucessfully in many applications that are far more severe than the marine environment.
Silicone Sealants are awesome, they work well and there is little problem reprepping a new seal on a previously sealed surface. The original sealant on many Macgregor windows is of course silicone sealant. By working carefully, one can remove the original sealant and reseal sucessfully. Just because it is used on a boat does not magically remove the properties of silicone sealant. It is used sucessfully in many applications that are far more severe than the marine environment.
Phil - things to consider regarding silicone
In my mind it's a matter of using "the best tool/material for the job". Sealants have been discussed to death in numerous forums but with one underlying recommendation - don't use silicone (unless it's a marine product which is a blend of silicone and polyurethane). Since the material cost is only a small fraction of the overall effort to bed and rebed windows and hardware I'd personally cough up a couple bucks extra. Plus remember that boat manufacturers don't use it and surveyers will point it out (if found) with a negative effect on value (especailly if used to bed deck hardware). Macgregor uses butyl... I'm talking about hardware store silicone here - not marine products. The problem with hardware store silicone is it's poor shear strength, poor adhesion to some materials (like lexan) and poor adhesion when rebedding. The marine environment is harsh in terms of extreme temperature variations and extreme variations in expansion/contraction rates between materials like fibreglass, steel and lexan. The bond shears and you end up with essentially a gasket between two continually moving surfaces. Chris
In my mind it's a matter of using "the best tool/material for the job". Sealants have been discussed to death in numerous forums but with one underlying recommendation - don't use silicone (unless it's a marine product which is a blend of silicone and polyurethane). Since the material cost is only a small fraction of the overall effort to bed and rebed windows and hardware I'd personally cough up a couple bucks extra. Plus remember that boat manufacturers don't use it and surveyers will point it out (if found) with a negative effect on value (especailly if used to bed deck hardware). Macgregor uses butyl... I'm talking about hardware store silicone here - not marine products. The problem with hardware store silicone is it's poor shear strength, poor adhesion to some materials (like lexan) and poor adhesion when rebedding. The marine environment is harsh in terms of extreme temperature variations and extreme variations in expansion/contraction rates between materials like fibreglass, steel and lexan. The bond shears and you end up with essentially a gasket between two continually moving surfaces. Chris
Good post
Chris, That is a fine post. I used hardware store silicon around the edges of a leaky window. I guess time will tell. What do you use/recommend? I'm searching for 4200 locally but it may be a futile search. Ken
Chris, That is a fine post. I used hardware store silicon around the edges of a leaky window. I guess time will tell. What do you use/recommend? I'm searching for 4200 locally but it may be a futile search. Ken
Hi Ken
I have only used the 4000 series of 3M adhesives - and only because I can get them locally. There are other brands for sure but I can't remember their names. Macgregor uses (or used to use) a low grade butyl. But - that "flowable silicone" I mentioned in an earlier post is an excellent product for stopping existing leaks. Since it wicks in, there is no mess or visible caulking. It's a pretty good quick fix. Chris
I have only used the 4000 series of 3M adhesives - and only because I can get them locally. There are other brands for sure but I can't remember their names. Macgregor uses (or used to use) a low grade butyl. But - that "flowable silicone" I mentioned in an earlier post is an excellent product for stopping existing leaks. Since it wicks in, there is no mess or visible caulking. It's a pretty good quick fix. Chris
Backwoods
Bob, You guys don't realize I live in the mountains of eastern Kentucky in the poorest county in the state. We don't have a MacDonalds in the entire county. The closest WalMart is an hour away and the nearest HomeDepot, I guess, is about two hours away. We have one traffic light in the entire county. Folks here think I'm crazy to have a sailboat in the first place. I think she is the only one in the county also. So you can see there are not a lot of marine supplies avaliable locally, especially things that work in saltwater. :-( I just make do.
Bob, You guys don't realize I live in the mountains of eastern Kentucky in the poorest county in the state. We don't have a MacDonalds in the entire county. The closest WalMart is an hour away and the nearest HomeDepot, I guess, is about two hours away. We have one traffic light in the entire county. Folks here think I'm crazy to have a sailboat in the first place. I think she is the only one in the county also. So you can see there are not a lot of marine supplies avaliable locally, especially things that work in saltwater. :-( I just make do.
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