I accidently scraped my removable rudder for the 216 coming into dock (duh). I need to repair the end. Whats the best material to use? I have read that plexisus or plexus (devcon high strength plastic welder) is a good repair material, but is that appropriate for the rudder or just the hull?
Fix 216 rudder ding
- Thread starter John6017
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Repairing fiberglass
John, I think the rudder is fiberglass. That being said and even if it isn't, I believe that the approach should be to use epoxy and microballoons. It is messy to apply but is strong and relatively easy to sand. The best is the Gougion brothers West System but for just a small ding, any brand will be more than sufficient.
John, I think the rudder is fiberglass. That being said and even if it isn't, I believe that the approach should be to use epoxy and microballoons. It is messy to apply but is strong and relatively easy to sand. The best is the Gougion brothers West System but for just a small ding, any brand will be more than sufficient.
epoxy thickener
among a group of epoxy thickeners, these make sanding easier compared with some others and can also be used in primer coat paint to promote easy sanding. I don't think I'd use it in rudder repair though.
among a group of epoxy thickeners, these make sanding easier compared with some others and can also be used in primer coat paint to promote easy sanding. I don't think I'd use it in rudder repair though.
gelcoat
I've repaired some little scrapes and chips in my H216 rudder with some gelcoat compound. It all depends on how severe the damage.
I've repaired some little scrapes and chips in my H216 rudder with some gelcoat compound. It all depends on how severe the damage.
Marine-Tex
John, I do my Spring rudder repairs with Marine-Tex. I've done my share of bonehead things like hawling my H216 up at the ramp without pulling the rudder up. Marine-Tex handles like putty, hardens like steel, and is not affected by long exposure to water. I mix it up, let it get tacky and apply it with a wood tongue depressor. I then put plastic food wrap over the top of the affected area and mold it with my fingers. When it's molded the way I want it I let it dry and then take the plastic off. The last several years its turned out perfect; didn't even have to sand it. Good luck and happy sailing.
John, I do my Spring rudder repairs with Marine-Tex. I've done my share of bonehead things like hawling my H216 up at the ramp without pulling the rudder up. Marine-Tex handles like putty, hardens like steel, and is not affected by long exposure to water. I mix it up, let it get tacky and apply it with a wood tongue depressor. I then put plastic food wrap over the top of the affected area and mold it with my fingers. When it's molded the way I want it I let it dry and then take the plastic off. The last several years its turned out perfect; didn't even have to sand it. Good luck and happy sailing.
rudder repair
John The rudder is fiberglass and all of the ideas posted will work just fine. The Devcon plastic Welder ( you can get it at Wallmart) will work just fine too. It is an acrylic adhesive. The others posted are epoxy based. The nice thing about the plastic welder is that it has a pastelike consistancy and will dry in about 6 minutes. It can be easily sanded before it fully cures (24 hours). When painted you will never know it happened. The acrilic adhesives is stronger, holds up better to moisture and UV than epoxy. The epoxy is tougher and transferas load better to fibers. If the ding is so big that you need to use glass fiber to repair it, the epoxy may be a better choice. The epoxy give better load transfer to glass reinforecment and will wet out the glass fibers more easily than the devcon. But you can use glass fiber with the plastic welder with good result also. I took the first couple of inches off my bow and repaired with it Devcon plastic welder II and glass mat backed by some balsa wood and the repair is holding up fine and can not be noticed. Gary
John The rudder is fiberglass and all of the ideas posted will work just fine. The Devcon plastic Welder ( you can get it at Wallmart) will work just fine too. It is an acrylic adhesive. The others posted are epoxy based. The nice thing about the plastic welder is that it has a pastelike consistancy and will dry in about 6 minutes. It can be easily sanded before it fully cures (24 hours). When painted you will never know it happened. The acrilic adhesives is stronger, holds up better to moisture and UV than epoxy. The epoxy is tougher and transferas load better to fibers. If the ding is so big that you need to use glass fiber to repair it, the epoxy may be a better choice. The epoxy give better load transfer to glass reinforecment and will wet out the glass fibers more easily than the devcon. But you can use glass fiber with the plastic welder with good result also. I took the first couple of inches off my bow and repaired with it Devcon plastic welder II and glass mat backed by some balsa wood and the repair is holding up fine and can not be noticed. Gary
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