First sail

Status
Not open for further replies.
Feb 14, 2010
156
Hunter H33C Quincy, MA
Well, got the sails on this past weekend; first sail was yesterday - the solstice (Sailstice) of course! Things went smooth, a calm day with about 8 kts breeze - just what I needed for the first. I do have a few more questions though (of course!) First - the gooseneck pins into a fitting on the mast that seems to have one permanent position\; on my last boat the boom moved up and down the mast in the track and I adjusted a self-rigged downhaul after raising the main - was this one-position fitting standard on the 33s?
Second - when on a starboard tack I got some fluid backing out the shower drain; where does the shower empty? I'm guessing the main bilge, but I don't know why it would come out the shower end (it did seem to subside after a bit - maybe the hose was clogged?)
 
May 4, 2010
68
hunter 33_77-83 wilmington, NC
As far as I know on my 33, the shower drains to a pan under the batteries and has its own pump. A PO of my boat drilled a hole in this pan to make it drain to the main bilge.

The boom is fixed on my mast in one spot also. I have seen other 33's with a boom track but am not sure if they ever came with this from Hunter.
 
Jun 2, 2004
217
Hunter 376 Oyster Bay, LI, NY
As gray_penguin pointed out, the original H33s (Cherub variety) came with a "fixed" gooseneck for the boom. Luff tension was by way of a downhaul. And the shower does drain into a small pan under the batteries just forward of the engine pan. There should be a small bilge pump in that sump which is controlled with a push/pull switch in the head just below the vanity. At least that's the way it was set up on my old 1981 boat. The outlet hose from the pump goes under the floor pan and up the starboard side of the hull to a thru-hull fitting about a foot under the starboard toe rail.

The problem with the bilge pump in that area is that you have to remove the batteries in order to deal with any pump issues.

If you don't activate the pump after a shower, or if you turn the pump off before that sump is drained you will have that water back up into the head on starboard tack.
 
Feb 14, 2010
156
Hunter H33C Quincy, MA
shower sump

wow, thanks - I think this might explain things. . . I'll check this out when I get back down to the boat. What about the pan/sump under the engine? I don't really see how this drains, or is connected to a pump. . . again, thanks for the replies. . .
 
Jun 23, 2010
4
Hunter H33 Maine
Engine pan drain

Just aft of the shower sump described above is the drain hole for the engine pan. If you look under the alternator and water pump pulleys you will find it. It is a small hole that will clog easily so keep a plastc tie handy to unclog. It leads to the main bilge. It might only be 3/8 in diameter. My 81H33 has a track on the mast.
 
Jan 2, 2008
547
Hunter 33 (Cherubini design Forked River, Barnegat Bay, NJ
The engine pan should NOT have a hole allowing drainage to the bilge. The pan is there to catch oil spills. A lazy or unknowledgable PO probably made the hole. Save yourself some grief and plug it up.

The earlier masts were Schaefer with the fixed location gooseneck. On the earliest f these, the sloped deck style there was a baby stay that attached right to the deck and single lowers. The later Kenyon masts have a piece of aluminum track riveted on verticaly with the gooseneck mounted to a slider with a lock pin in it and a piece of rope that can be tied off to a cleat down near the base of the mast. I found it useless and just use the lock pin and pull luff tension with the halyard and winch. Some, but not all of the Kenyon masts have a black aluminum four sheave box at the base of the mast which turns the internal halyards aft to the cockpit. These seem to have been optional.
 
Feb 14, 2010
156
Hunter H33C Quincy, MA
Sam - how would I get water into the engine pan (at the dock, with the raw water and head intake seacocks closed)?
While I have your attention, the two lines internal to the boom - one is the outhaul, correct? I'm assuming the other is for reefing, but I'm not quite sure how it is intended to be rigged. . . thanks for the replies and assistance (as always!)
 
Jun 23, 2010
4
Hunter H33 Maine
Pan

Nope, boat came with the drain hole in1981. No "po". Plenty of water may run through that area if you clean the area for example. I don't agree with Lust. See if one is there. If you want to get water to cool your engine you might want to install an inline flush valve sold at most chandlers.
 
Jan 2, 2008
547
Hunter 33 (Cherubini design Forked River, Barnegat Bay, NJ
The engine pan is separate from the hull, actually part of the floor liner molding that comprises the entire area around the engine, engine bed, and shower sump forward of it. Water can get into it from the engine itself, whether leaking sea water or coolant. It can come from the rudder tube, the emergency tiller screw cap, a badly sealed pedestal, an open lazarette or sail locker hatch. The engine liner pan fits close to the hull at it's aft end leaving an opening about 2 1/2" to 3" wide and maybe 1/4" high. If munge plugs it up the water backs up and goes into the pan instead of under it and into the bilge. I clean under mine every couple of seasons with a reasonably high pressure water hose (not a pressure washer). My boat is an 83 and I can assure you it has no hole. I have swapped engines on my boat, cleaned the pan and filled it with hose water in the process. It is at least comforting to know that if the engine were to fragment itself and spill it's fluids at least they would not drain into the bilge and be pumped out into Barnegat Bay. If you want I can shoot pictures.

The shower sump (which is part of the liner back there including the engine pan and beds) is very shallow relative to the drain passage from the floor in the head. The design of the head floor doen not make for good complete drainage. Couple that with the pump in the sump (nothing more than a small bilge pump) leaves about 1/2" or so of water in the pan and you can have that water from the sump making it back from the sump. One of these days I'm going to stick a live well pump into the floor drain hole and see if it will clear the floor any better that the sump pump. each time I pump the holding tank I take the opportunity to hose down the floor in the head and I get the water sloshing around for quite some time.

As to your boom; The line going up into the center opening of the forward end of your boom should be your out haul. It connects to a small tackle inside which enables you to generate some serious pull o the clew. I learned this the hard way when I was bending on the main the first time I got the boat into the water when I bought it. I pulled a couple of feet of the out-haul wire out and the boom sucked in the bitter end of the line. I had to drill it apart, re-reeve it, tap threads where the rivets had been and screw it back together. And drew serious blood pinching skin between the boom and casting. My feeling is "The boat isn't yours till you spill your own blood onto it. That leaves the other line which should be for the out-haul for your first reef. I've never seen a 33 (C) that had a second reef on the original equipment main sail.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.