First sail... first trip... Hunter 23

Sep 2, 2024
7
Hunter Hunter 23 Buffalo
We just returned from a long weekend in Maine. It was the first time I sailed or stayed on the boat since I acquired it. Here are some thoughts…
The package trailered nicely. With a vessel displacement of 2400, a stock trailer weight of around 600lbs and what ever we had stuffed aboard, towing it the 1300 miles round trip was a breeze. We carried our dingy on the roof of our Honda Pilot and that helped transition the headwind nicely. I mounted new tries for the trip, the axles were already equipped with bearing buddies and the wheel bearings were silky smooth prior to departure. I have trailered many many boats over the years and some just bucked and argued the entire trip. I did prior to leaving move the winch post support as far forward as it would go which moved the boat forward approximately 3” on the trailer. Prior to doing that, the trailer felt too neutral and the move to provide added tongue weight was a good move. The whole idea of a trailer sailboat is the ability to travel to your intended destination at highway speeds. As I may have mentioned, we own a Pearson 365 ketch but moving it to Maine and back on its own keel is a 6 week investment in precious time. With the Hunter it was condensed to a realistic 12 hours each way.

If I keep the boat (more on that latter), I will surely add a second axle too the trailer. This does several things. One is that with a single axle trailer a tire or bearing problem ruins the day. Tandem axle trailers minimize those problems. Yes… there are now twice as many moving parts to fail but if one does you simply remove the offending wheel and continue on the three that remain. I remember one trip where when we arrived I discovered nothing but side walls left on one of the tires. The tread portion had left us somewhere along the way but the trailer carried on without disruption. If you are just heading down the road for an hour or so trip, a single axle trailer will foot the bill. If you travel great distances, redundancy is insurance even if it is just to limp off of the interstate. Another advantage of a tandem trailer is moving around on the boat when it is not hooked to the tow vehicle. It is a sickening feeling when you start the feel the boat and trailer start to tip backwards on the single axle while moving about. Blocking or a rear jack will stop that problem but it must be employed each time you go on the boat.

When I add the second axle it will have brakes. The rig isn’t that heavy unless you are at highway speeds and there is a panic stop situation. Brakes add that level of travel comfort. The added tongue weight from the winch post move did the trick as even at 65 and 70 mph speeds there was no sway unless we were in the wake turbulence of a semi. Four tires on the ground with a tandem trailer also help this effort. There is nothing worse than the tail wagging the dog situation while trailering.

The boat sails nicely. The tiller feel is a bit dull but all in all it moves along respectfully. For the most part we saw lower wind speeds in the single digits although occasionally we did see some mid-teens. The boat did well, tacked well and seemed to have a stiff shoulder giving the impression of a much larger boat while under sail. The wing keel did its job as we were able to tuck way up into fiords and anchorages where other boats feared to venture. Maine is famous for its lobster pots and we never hooked a line with the wing.

The boat also motors well. Powered by a 6hp Tohatsu Sail Pro, even at mid throttle we saw numbers in the mid to upper fours. We were in no hurry and I never powered completely up (more on that latter) so I have no idea what flank speed would be under this power arrangement but I would expect lower 5’s. I was impressed that we could leave the tiller unintended for short periods of time while under power and the boat would continue to track straight and true. I have been on boats where if you let go of the tiller it was full right or full left but never straight.
All in all we put a little over 40 nautical miles under the wing over 2-1/2 days. We found the accommodations acceptable for the short period we were aboard. Head room of course is an issue for even my 5ft something wife. I am already thinking about adding the lift top enclosure which will provide some standing headroom and a safe haven in the event of inclement weather while on the hook.

One of the best additions I made was the $100 forced air diesel heater. Penobscot bay in late September proved to be rather chilly in the evening and down right cold in the early mornings as they said it would. When we anchored for the night, a click of the button and within minutes the interior of the boat was invitingly warm and cozy. I had difficulty understanding the nuances of operating the unit to run just off of its thermostat (poor Chinese directions) so I operated the system in the On/Off mode. It came with a remote so if I felt it was too chilly aboard a quick hit of heat did the trick.
There is nothing better in my mind that a warm island of your own under the deep Maine star studded darkness.

We towed an 8ft Walker Bay rigid tender which for two people proved to be the ticket. I only carried oars for this trip and I think that will be all that is necessary in the future. The stern railing I added, which is open in the center with a closure cable, was also a great improvement adding stability and security while entering or exiting the dingy. A deep folding stern ladder on the starboard side of the transom made in and out a breeze.
The cockpit seating was comfortable even for long periods of time. The boat came with 1-1/2” el-cheap-o cockpit cushions and we found that they were more than adequate for minimizing boat butt. They are a low budget build that are a well worthy off season project. The outward slopping side deck back by the cockpit took a bit of getting used to while walking but it is understood that angle is for sitting high when there is significant boat heel. We stayed put in the cockpit but a hiking extension would be a necessity if deck seating while at the helm was required. The rather broad radius where the cabin sides meet the deck also limited the usable side deck walking space. Every inch is important.

We really did not require ventilation but while at anchor in North Haven during the day, we did have the forward hatch open to provide some flow through air. It would be nice if the forward deck hatch was not completely opaque and provided light to the V-berth area. I will ponder a reasonable solution to that desire for a future modification.

Raising the mast was an experience. We liked it so much that we did it twice prior to launch. The first lowering and second re-stand came about for two unfortunate reasons. First was the miss guessing of where the cap and lower shrouds lived. It was a 50/50 guess that I failed at miserably and the two were intertwined after the first standing. I could have kept the mast upright with the main halyard while I switched each side but ultimately it was the free fall of the head stay and CDI furler into the parking lot that required a reset. The T-ball fitting ejected itself from the mast once vertical. I did take note that the T-ball retaining plug was not present when I got the boat but that thought got lost in the hundreds of other items before we departed. I had a small piece of foam that I jammed into the T-slot during the second attempt that saved the day and kept the T-ball engaged.

The side to side movement was very concerning and the videos I watched prior did not do that issue justice. We have stood many spars by simply walking them up and I guess in that method you control the side to side movement as you go. When “cranking” the mast to vertical, containing the desire to swing out laterally comes heavily into play. I never did get a chance to build a device to keep the side play thing in check prior to leaving, so we improvised a system of ratchet straps to limit the side to side movement that had to be adjusted with the mast angle. Awkward as it were we did successfully raise the mast twice before we launched.

The first real “what the hell” moment came after the mast issue and focused mainly around the motor and the motor mount bracket. The bracket that came with the boat is a rather well built Panther adjustable height unit. On its own it functioned flawlessly and never gave the impression that the motor overpowered it. The issue was the positive rake angle of the transom. The rake of course meant that the motor mounting block on the bracket was also raked. All motors even in the most upright position also have a slight positive rake which can be increased to meet the negative angle of a transom, not a positive rake angle as with the Hunter. Even with the motor bracket adjusted to the lowest position possible, my standard long shaft (20”) outboard prop was barely below the surface of the water. Any wave action and the prop would be skyward and spinning freely. All throughout the time consuming process of making the motor useful, the thought occurred to me “how did the prior owners ever use this boat?” One answer would have been an ultra-long shaft motor, (25”) but even with that the prop would not be in every far and the motor still would be at an unsuitable upward angle.

The first modification I preformed was to lower the motor mount block. I accomplished this by drilling new holes. (Thank goodness for bringing lots of tools along). That hole redrill only gained an 1-1/2” but that was a start. The next feasible modification was to remove the mount lock bar. This would allow the swinging adjustable motor bracket to drop down much further into the water. By doing so I add another 3 to 4” of depth to the prop but lost the ability to actually lock the bracket in the up or down position. Once again ratchet straps to the rescue and I devised a way to strap the mount down in the run position and strap it up on the stern rail in the up position.


I am still pondering a more permanent fix to this problem but what we had worked fairly well with only one max rev prop in the sky event. Even if I acquired a motor with an ultra-long shaft, the running angle is very wrong. The prop thrust was directed up toward the water’s surface at around a 15 degree angle (whatever angle the transom is) and not at all parallel to drive the boat efficiently. One method would to be to add a wedge block between the motor bracket and the transom to straighten the angle. Time will tell.

The second “what the hell” moment came after we had left the dock. Unfurling the headsail that came with the boat it became very obvious very quickly that it could not be sheeted in properly. The sail as I measured it was a 150% and the boat originally comes with a 135%. One of the past owners apparently added the 150% probably when the CDI furler was added. Judging by the condition of the 150, it had been with the boat for years. I do not know how because when sheeted to the fixed sheet block on the deck, the sail was all but unusable sailing upwind. Even though CDI furlers are not really designed to be used to reef a headsail I managed to and limited the 150’s size to something that would more fit the available fore triangle space and trim it to a reasonable shape. The boat did come with the original 135% hank on jib and the original wire headstay buried in the forepeak, but how did they ever sail the thing with the furler and 150% set up? So… one of the next projects is to fit the boat with jib tracks or move the existing sheet deck blocks aft.

All in all the boat performed very well. It trailered well, sailed well, motored well, had usable space and was comfortable for the most part (less the head banging). It even has a suitable anchor locker for heaven sakes! The only gnawing moment was while rowing away while at an anchorage looking back, she did not make my heart skip a beat… not one. In Maine, there are so many tradition gorgeous boats everywhere. Hinckley’s, Alden’s, Sabre’s, boats made by Morris and Shannon and lots of wooden pieces of floating jewelry. My Pearson ketch, even after 20 years still lights my fire when walking down the dock. In my opinion the Hunter is a Clorox bottle, a sleek streamlined one but a plastic bottle just the same. Oh I like racy looking boats, our race boat is a Melges 24. It’s a 20 knot rocket even on the hard. The Hunter is a modern styled boat. I even replaced the coach top “handrails” with stainless versions as they are stronger, maintenance free and more functional, but also they fit the look of the boat even though I like the look of varnished teak. Everything on the 23 that is wood is now varnished but it hasn’t helped. The slab hull sides only have the one waterline stripe, perhaps something added there would help. I even thought of teak toe rail caps that would both increase the height for additional safety but perhaps also enhance the appearance. I have thought about changing the billboard white hull slabs to a color but, I am sorry nothing seems to help. I was thinking of two toning the deck nonskid. That should help but not enough. The style of the name of the boat is even hideous, more circus wagon looking than anything else. Her name is TESSIE and that is her name but it needs a more feminine font in a flowing script if she stays.

When I mentioned “if I keep the boat” that is what I meant. It checks all of the boxes and does so very well with the exception of looks. I drool over a
Herreshoff Rozinate knowing it has no room, isn’t at all practicable and at 6000 plus pounds not trailerable. A Morris Linda is to die for. But the Hunter 23 is just another boat in my eyes. Perhaps I am being too shallow or trivial, but it matters and it matters a lot.
We have owned many boats and the vast majority I hated to sell. The only reasons were those of practicability or the drool factor (drool was typically first on the list). We owned a Seaward 22 at one point. A shippy little boat with a touch of salt and by no means was a performance greyhound, but it looked right. Compac Yachts look right but I own this boat, and we can afford this boat, and it does everything well. (I am currently completely rehabbing a Compac 19 however to resell) There are some boats that are so ugly they become cute. A Potter 15 comes to mind. I am sorry if I offend but that is my opinion. To each their own it is said… but a Hunter 23???

One additional positive note. My wife after many years of not really wanting to cruise, now has a “to go” list. That’s right, a list of places she now wants to go. Mackinac Island, Henderson Harbor in the Thousand Islands and more. Perhaps this 23 footer is a bit more manageable in her mind that our 36 and that is apparently a good thing.

Time will tell.
Good sailing
Dale
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,978
O'Day 25 Chicago
Thank you for sharing your trip and experience. It was an enjoyable read and one that is seldom seen on here.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,296
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Is the trailer built by KWS or Ken’ Welding?

Pulling without brakes as the boat sits high on the trailer at high speed can and will cause to sway violently loosing control due to the center of gravity being to high for a wing keel. The original trailer did not have drop down axle nor brakes. Therefore max speed 45-55 should be considered. If the trailer starts to swing, speed up to pull or stop the swaying and then brake slowly. You were very smart to move the winch stand all the way forward. As a dealer pulling a 23 wing keel without brakes, a tractor trailer driver came left of center striking the my boat. The trailer started to sway violently causing an accident. By the Grace of God I narrowly missed being hit head on by a semi. Slow down till you get a second axle with brakes! After that, brakes were offered on trailers by Hunter.
@Shacklepin
 
Sep 2, 2024
7
Hunter Hunter 23 Buffalo
I am beginning to understand why they refer to you as Crazy Dave! Please do not expect me or anybody else to believe that a multi million dollar company such as Hunter would produce and sell a product intended to freely travel the interstates of America yet have a limited towing speed of 45 to 55 MPH? I'm sure as a responsible dealer you informed your customers of that limitation and each trailer was clearly marked with that information.
Trailer sway, a drop axles, tandem axles and brakes are 4 different issues. Sway is caused by the center of the mass being towed as a relationship to the axle location. The axle is the pivot point of the trailer. If the load is dead center on the axle then it is easy to pivot about the axels center. As that load moves forward away from the axels pivot point it is harder for the load to pivot around the axle. The most common way to measure that offset load is tongue weight. A good rule of thumb is 10% of the trailer weight and its load should be on the tongue. The boat weighing 2400 lbs added to the approx. 600 lb trailer = 3000 lbs. The rule of thumb would indicate that the approximate tongue weight should be 300 lbs. My guess is, as I received the boat the tongue weight was around 80 pounds (~3%), much to light. By shifting the winch post max forward and subsequently the boat, my guess is the tongue weight is now just under 200 lbs (~7%). The simple placement of a bathroom scale under the trailer tongue would have verified that guess). I looked to slide the axle back on the trailer frame to gain more tongue weight but the spring mounts are welded and not easily movable. By sliding the axle back even an inch or two the center of the combined load weight would have moved even further forward away from the pivot point of the axle. We were careful to pack everything heavy forward in the boat. This added additional tongue weight. I suspect the weight placement of the load was fairly correct when we left.
Drop axles were designed to do lower the height of the trailer. The typical drop is 4". This makes the boat easier to get on and off of the trailer requiring less water depth and makes it easier to get into the boat while on the trailer on the hard. By lowering the trailer the center of mass is lowered. A lower center of mass means greater stability while cornering. This greater stability would also mean a greater ability to resist sway especially from tractor trailer wash. That brings us to additional axles. Besides providing more load carrying capacity (not required in this application) each tire provides a resistance from side to side (lateral movement). This is beneficial while cornering, on a side slope or resisting sway. By adding a second axle the resistance to lateral movement doubles because you have double the number of tires providing that resistance. In my case that is a plus, but what I am really after is the redundancy that a second set of wheels, tires and bearing gives. Additionally the single axle set up means there is 1500 pounds of load on each tire/bearing. By adding a second axle that applied load is halved to 750 pounds per tire/bearing.
Brakes are just a pure safety facture much as the tandem axle set up would be. Your tow vehicle has a finite stopping distance at any given speed and road surface. That stopping distance can be broken down to feet per pound. At so many pounds the breaking system will stop that load in so many feet. Our Honda Pilot has a curb weight of approximately 4600 lbs and has stopping distance at 60 MPH and according to the Google machine a stopping distance of 130 ft. If we add 3000 lbs of boat and trailer that stopping distance is going to go way up. By adding brakes to the trailer, the trailer now stops itself taking the burden of of the tow vehicle, and regains that all so important lost stopping distance.
Good Trailer Sailing
Dale
 
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Jun 8, 2004
10,296
-na -NA Anywhere USA
@Shacklepin

I base my responses based on knowledge but mostly experience having sold 20-25% of the hunter 23 wing keel. There were many other complaints about this issue. It is your boat and trailer, do what you think best.

As for my nickname , I used it for marketing purposes. You have no idea what I contributed to this industry and those whose boats I took care of. There is nothing more to be said
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,978
O'Day 25 Chicago
I agree with everything @Crazy Dave Condon said except for braking or speeding up to reduce sway. I've always found that coasting works best. Keeping a max speed of 45-55 really helps when you have a trailer or tow vehicle that's prone to issues. Substantially reduces potential sway. Moving the weight forward on the trailer helps not only with handling, but prevents your boat from tipping backwards. We all speak based on our own knowledge and experiences.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,296
-na -NA Anywhere USA
@Project_Mayhem @Brian M H23 and @Shacklepin

Hunter Marine purchased trailers from KWS also known as Ken's Welding for the 23 wing keel and 18.5 wing bulb keel sailboats as Hunter was not set up with manufacturing trailers. As a result of numerous complaints, I suggested to Hunter to hire the industry foremost sailboat trailer designer, Ron Frisosky with Precision to be manufactured by Hunter Marine. I learned alot from Ron. The original plans for the 23.5 came from me and was involved thereafter with the design team for boats 30 feet and under

After the loss of my second H 23 on a KWS trailer due to swaying violently swaying, I added brakes on the axle, extended the trailer tongue, replaced the bearings and racers, added Bearing Buddies and added bracing to the fenders. If my customers were trailering alot, they should consider drop down axle/axles, smaller larger tires etc...

Then I read @Shacklepin description and concerns for the trailer which concerned me particularly the lack of the recommended 10% safety tongue weight of boat, trailer, motor and gear at the hitch and tipping backwards.
That description reminded me that his boat trailer could be from Kens Welding. My very first sentence was in the form of a question, was his trailer a Ken's Welding or KWS which was never answered .

@Project_Mayhem You mentioned a gentle swaying of the trailer which my concern is a trailer out of control violently swaying. I told my customers to pretend pulling a boat safely as if driving on snow and don't tailgate. With a semi passing, pull over as much as possible keeping a steady speed. With a no brakes trailer, should the trailer become uncontrollable and swaying violently, to accelerate pulling the sway under control and then brake slowly
I tell anyone, it's their boat and trailer to do with as it is their decision, not mine. If they disagree with me that is their decision but respect me for my experience, don't bash me
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,296
-na -NA Anywhere USA
@Project_Mayhem

When transporting my zero turn lawn mower, it is stored as forward on the trailer which has no brakes. There is no swaying plus I can brake safely maintaining a long distance behind the vehicle in front of me. I make sure there is a lot of weight on the trailer tongue
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,978
O'Day 25 Chicago
@Project_Mayhem

When transporting my zero turn lawn mower, it is stored as forward on the trailer which has no brakes. There is no swaying plus I can brake safely maintaining a long distance behind the vehicle in front of me. I make sure there is a lot of weight on the trailer tongue
Even properly setup trailers and tow vehicles can experience sway. We've all seen it with semi's as well. What saved me when I was towing a heavy boat with an undersized vehicle was a dip in the road between the highway and an off ramp. It centered me right up
 
Oct 3, 2006
1,014
Hunter 23 Philadelphia
That KWS trailer, oh man.

I moved the boat quite a bit forward - as far as it would go - and got the tongue to about 400 lbs. Added a second axle, but only had surge brakes on the one.

That extending tongue always bothered me, and I prefered not to mess with it.

Most ramps I could get the boat off with the axle tubes of my F150 just touching the water. On haulout, it wasn't anywhere NEAR far enough forward on the trailer - I used a heavy ratchet strap around the keel and gooseneck to "pre-tension" the boat and then, with the tiniest tap of the brakes she would slide home.

Back in the day I was the trailer sailing PRO with that thing :)