Just went of the second short outing in my new 170. Just thought I would share with you my first impressions. First, the nitpicking criticisms. 1. The window on the jib is completely useless unless you sail standing up. 2. The lock for the mainsail sheet can only be engaged by the use of a foot if you are sitting back or are on the rail. 3. The forestay is VERY difficult to connect without the use of the trailor wench. 4. The boat is more sensitive than I thought it would be to weight distribution. Now - The things I like about the boat. 1. It is very easy to rig with the exception of the forstay. 2. The boat is very responsive and seems to be quite fast. 3. It is very attractive. 4. It is comfortable. 4. The lack of a transom is great for swimming. 5. The boat is very solid. I get the impression that this is a boat that will last for a long time. I am sure that as I become more familiar with it, the list of things I like will grow but the first two criticisms listed above should be addressed by design changes. We sailed a Flying Scot prior to getting this boat. The reason we switched was that we trailor each time we sail and the Scot just took too long to rig and derig. The Scot has much more the feeling of a BIG boat than the 170 but lacks the excitement of acceleration and quick responsiveness.
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Dave Condon
suggestionx
Does your boat have a topping lift. If not, add one as it will hold the boom up and if long enough, you can pull with it to help with the attachment of the forestay to the deck and vice versa. Flick the mainsheet instead of using your foot. it works for me. happy sailing. Crazyyyyy Dave
Does your boat have a topping lift. If not, add one as it will hold the boom up and if long enough, you can pull with it to help with the attachment of the forestay to the deck and vice versa. Flick the mainsheet instead of using your foot. it works for me. happy sailing. Crazyyyyy Dave
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Michael Stuart
Forestay is no problem
Attaching the forestay is no problem. Cleat the main halyard to the mast. Attach another very long line to the other end of the halyard (which runs through the blocks at the top of the mast). Get someone else to hold the end of this line and stand 20+ feet in front of the boat. Step the mast (with side stays attached!). After the mast goes over 60 degrees up, that person can pull on that line to help raise the mast. Once the mast is up completely, get that person to lean back on the line. You then jump out of the boat, grab the forestay, and pin it in place. To take the mast down, reverse. Just did both yesterday, up and down -- 2 minutes each way. It's so easy, and with the leverage you get by pulling the top of the mast, almost no pulling is required. Try it, you'll like it. I agree with the other posting, if you don't yet have a topping lift to hold the boom up when the mainsail is down, rig one.
Attaching the forestay is no problem. Cleat the main halyard to the mast. Attach another very long line to the other end of the halyard (which runs through the blocks at the top of the mast). Get someone else to hold the end of this line and stand 20+ feet in front of the boat. Step the mast (with side stays attached!). After the mast goes over 60 degrees up, that person can pull on that line to help raise the mast. Once the mast is up completely, get that person to lean back on the line. You then jump out of the boat, grab the forestay, and pin it in place. To take the mast down, reverse. Just did both yesterday, up and down -- 2 minutes each way. It's so easy, and with the leverage you get by pulling the top of the mast, almost no pulling is required. Try it, you'll like it. I agree with the other posting, if you don't yet have a topping lift to hold the boom up when the mainsail is down, rig one.
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Ed Smith
I Have Become Unaware of Using My Foot
But as you say, it is the easy way to reach the mainsheet into the clew and also when unfurling the Jib and setting the jib sheet into the clew single handed. I like the use of the main halyard to pin the forestay, but I would only fasten in the lower shrouds before raising the mast and I have never had a problem walking the mast up from the spreaders and setting the mast step pole. Once this is complete use either the topping lift or the Main halyard to give you leverage on the fore stay and you are in business. You can also use the halyaerd when you are attaching the cap shrouds to insure a good rake on the mast. I waste a lot of time wrapping and tucking so that if I decide to take off for Texas or some other long drive I'm all set.
But as you say, it is the easy way to reach the mainsheet into the clew and also when unfurling the Jib and setting the jib sheet into the clew single handed. I like the use of the main halyard to pin the forestay, but I would only fasten in the lower shrouds before raising the mast and I have never had a problem walking the mast up from the spreaders and setting the mast step pole. Once this is complete use either the topping lift or the Main halyard to give you leverage on the fore stay and you are in business. You can also use the halyaerd when you are attaching the cap shrouds to insure a good rake on the mast. I waste a lot of time wrapping and tucking so that if I decide to take off for Texas or some other long drive I'm all set.
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Don C.
Try this!!
Calvin, 1) I too thought that the jib window was too high until I was healing last week and sure enough, there was another sailboat in the window. That's when I said "wow, this really works". 2) If you are on the rail with the main sheet locked, you may be asking for a surprise swim. I would not venture to lock it if I were healing that much. 3) As for the forestay, it soulds like your shrouds may be too tight to allow the forestay to be connected easily. Try readjusting the lower shrouds one notch. Also, try the aluminum pole that came with your boat that fits between the boom gooseneck and the centerboard trunk. It really works if you are by yourself and holds the mast tightly against the shrouds so you can go foreward to connect the forestay. I had to install a longer clevis pin and a bigger safety ring on top of the furler as my fingers are too big to work with the little pin and ring. 4) Weight distribution is a problem. My best control was when I was solo as I didn't have to shift my weight to compensate for the crew. I agree with all of the positives you mentioned. Enjoy
Calvin, 1) I too thought that the jib window was too high until I was healing last week and sure enough, there was another sailboat in the window. That's when I said "wow, this really works". 2) If you are on the rail with the main sheet locked, you may be asking for a surprise swim. I would not venture to lock it if I were healing that much. 3) As for the forestay, it soulds like your shrouds may be too tight to allow the forestay to be connected easily. Try readjusting the lower shrouds one notch. Also, try the aluminum pole that came with your boat that fits between the boom gooseneck and the centerboard trunk. It really works if you are by yourself and holds the mast tightly against the shrouds so you can go foreward to connect the forestay. I had to install a longer clevis pin and a bigger safety ring on top of the furler as my fingers are too big to work with the little pin and ring. 4) Weight distribution is a problem. My best control was when I was solo as I didn't have to shift my weight to compensate for the crew. I agree with all of the positives you mentioned. Enjoy
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Richard Kazinia
Connect forestay using boom vang purchase
Instead of using the trailer winch on the main halyard to tension the rig, I've used the boom vang purchase. First, tie a short piece of line around the bow eye on the stem. Then shackle the bottom block of the boom vang to it. Shackle the top vang block to the forward end of the main halyard while the other end is cleated on the mast. You can then easily tension / detension to adjust the shroud wires and get the tune just right. I like a lot of tension on the uppers and the lowers just barely tighter than slack. This keeps the forestay tight for smooth furling.
Instead of using the trailer winch on the main halyard to tension the rig, I've used the boom vang purchase. First, tie a short piece of line around the bow eye on the stem. Then shackle the bottom block of the boom vang to it. Shackle the top vang block to the forward end of the main halyard while the other end is cleated on the mast. You can then easily tension / detension to adjust the shroud wires and get the tune just right. I like a lot of tension on the uppers and the lowers just barely tighter than slack. This keeps the forestay tight for smooth furling.
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becanddave
170 Setup/takedown
I just bought a Hunter 170 and here are a few of the things I did to make setup/takedown faster. Almost everything I did eliminated those little slip rings that are a pain to use for trailer sailers. And all came from West Marine 1-800-937-8895. 1. Bought a snap shackle that fit the on the block assembly of the main-sheet. (Ronstan Snap Shackle Head #RF6170) Also bought 2 more for the block assemblies on the boom vang. 2. Replaced all Pins w/ slip rings with Pins that have a center plunge locking mechanism. I don't see them in my catalog, but most marine stores should have them. These pins I put on the top and bottom of the forestay and also on the boom where it connects to the mast. 3. Put a Keypin w/Bar Shackle (captive pin) on the topping lift. Not much of a time saver but I don' t have to tie anymore knots. (Wichard #81432) I have used the main halliard tied to the mast post on the trailer to bend the mast enough to connect the forestay. Seems to work for us, but everybody does something different. We have setup down to about 15 min. Maybe a little less.
I just bought a Hunter 170 and here are a few of the things I did to make setup/takedown faster. Almost everything I did eliminated those little slip rings that are a pain to use for trailer sailers. And all came from West Marine 1-800-937-8895. 1. Bought a snap shackle that fit the on the block assembly of the main-sheet. (Ronstan Snap Shackle Head #RF6170) Also bought 2 more for the block assemblies on the boom vang. 2. Replaced all Pins w/ slip rings with Pins that have a center plunge locking mechanism. I don't see them in my catalog, but most marine stores should have them. These pins I put on the top and bottom of the forestay and also on the boom where it connects to the mast. 3. Put a Keypin w/Bar Shackle (captive pin) on the topping lift. Not much of a time saver but I don' t have to tie anymore knots. (Wichard #81432) I have used the main halliard tied to the mast post on the trailer to bend the mast enough to connect the forestay. Seems to work for us, but everybody does something different. We have setup down to about 15 min. Maybe a little less.
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