Just bought my first boat, and couldn't be happier. Turns out, there is a huge part of the deck where the core is rotted. I have done some research and learned how to remove the inner skin, replace the core and re-apply the skin properly, but most books I read only mentioned smaller repair areas (few square feet). My boat has a HUGE area of the deck that would need replacing, and I am simply wondering if anyone knows of a better way to repair large parts of a rotted deck. Here are a couple pictures, the area inside the red lines is totally rotted. Its a 30 foot boat with a 10.5 foot beam. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d83/jesusjim86/goodpic2.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d83/jesusjim86/goodpic.jpg Thanks to everyone for your input. ~Jesse
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Just make sure ya get outside the rot area when ya cut.
Replace with marine plywood. Shouldn't be a problem.
Replace with marine plywood. Shouldn't be a problem.
Rotten Deck
I just tackled a similiar job, but mine was much smaller in scope. Go to West System and search for their "Replacing Damaged Balsa Core" page. Also, if you google this, there are a lot of sites that can help. My approach was a little unorthodox, but it worked. I used a 1" hole cutter attachment on my drill and drilled several holes in the top of the deck, dug out the rotten balsa with a screwdriver and refilled the holes with thickened epoxy. After it cured, I sanded it smooth, primed and I will repaint at a later date. Almost all of the damage is under the old painted on non-skid so the repairs should be virtually invisible when repainted. Probably not the best of techniques, but it will work. I've removed ALL of the topside hardware and am doing this almost everywhere there was a screw hole! If you go this route, buy a bunch of those big hypodermic plungers (60cc capacity I think) that Jamestown Distributers sell. Worth the $$$ to force the epoxy in all the nooks and crannies. Good luck, looks like you have your work cut out for you.
I just tackled a similiar job, but mine was much smaller in scope. Go to West System and search for their "Replacing Damaged Balsa Core" page. Also, if you google this, there are a lot of sites that can help. My approach was a little unorthodox, but it worked. I used a 1" hole cutter attachment on my drill and drilled several holes in the top of the deck, dug out the rotten balsa with a screwdriver and refilled the holes with thickened epoxy. After it cured, I sanded it smooth, primed and I will repaint at a later date. Almost all of the damage is under the old painted on non-skid so the repairs should be virtually invisible when repainted. Probably not the best of techniques, but it will work. I've removed ALL of the topside hardware and am doing this almost everywhere there was a screw hole! If you go this route, buy a bunch of those big hypodermic plungers (60cc capacity I think) that Jamestown Distributers sell. Worth the $$$ to force the epoxy in all the nooks and crannies. Good luck, looks like you have your work cut out for you.
Some more hopefull advice
Good luck on your project. Looks like you have a chore ahead. I would highly recommend that you cut out the areas outside your red mark, that are lighter colored. Looks like mostly to the starboard side of the mast step, if I am reading the pic right. It may not be rotten, but I would guess from the discoloration, that there has been some water incursion there, so might as well get it completely done the first time. Be careful not to cut too deeply when you cut it out. Then remove all the old core with whatever means works good for you.
Good luck on your project. Looks like you have a chore ahead. I would highly recommend that you cut out the areas outside your red mark, that are lighter colored. Looks like mostly to the starboard side of the mast step, if I am reading the pic right. It may not be rotten, but I would guess from the discoloration, that there has been some water incursion there, so might as well get it completely done the first time. Be careful not to cut too deeply when you cut it out. Then remove all the old core with whatever means works good for you.
You may as well start with a grinder and remove the glass with that as you will
want to taper the edges of the cut out anyway. You can go to the link I pasted for new corecell core. When the time comes to apply new glass to the repair you may find it helpful to cut the cloth to size and roll it onto a cardboard tube. Working with a paint roller wet the area with resin, lots of resin, then unroll about six inches of cloth and with a full roller paste the cloth to the work. Next, you slowly unroll the cloth as you keep it in contact with the hard wet surface , watch for any bubbles and roll those out. Try to avoid working from the edge to the center because the roller will pick up the edge. Work from the center to the edge. If you do pick up a wrap just work backwards and unwrap it. After you get the piece in place use a grooved roller to smooth the cloth and remove any bubbles. If it is nice and wet apply the next piece a little bigger than the first. You may have enough resin to get the second piece to stick without adding more with the paint roller. Staurate the second piece and roll out the bubbles. Don't forget to protect yourself from dust, resin and fumes. To fail here may mean you don't get to enjoy you work.
want to taper the edges of the cut out anyway. You can go to the link I pasted for new corecell core. When the time comes to apply new glass to the repair you may find it helpful to cut the cloth to size and roll it onto a cardboard tube. Working with a paint roller wet the area with resin, lots of resin, then unroll about six inches of cloth and with a full roller paste the cloth to the work. Next, you slowly unroll the cloth as you keep it in contact with the hard wet surface , watch for any bubbles and roll those out. Try to avoid working from the edge to the center because the roller will pick up the edge. Work from the center to the edge. If you do pick up a wrap just work backwards and unwrap it. After you get the piece in place use a grooved roller to smooth the cloth and remove any bubbles. If it is nice and wet apply the next piece a little bigger than the first. You may have enough resin to get the second piece to stick without adding more with the paint roller. Staurate the second piece and roll out the bubbles. Don't forget to protect yourself from dust, resin and fumes. To fail here may mean you don't get to enjoy you work.
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