Finishing Hatch Covers

  • Thread starter Richard Skipworth
  • Start date
Status
Not open for further replies.
R

Richard Skipworth

I own a '87 H34 and am in the process of building some permanent screens for my 4 overhead hatches. The screens are set in wood frames with hinges to allow access to the hatch latches (and replace the screens, if necessary). My questions are: I want to attach the frames to the headliner with screws; has anyone ever done any drilling in this area? How much space is between the headliner and the deck? How thick is the headliner? How thick is the deck? It feels very re-enforced in this area, what is the re-enforcement material? Any feedback is appreciated! Fair Winds! R. Skipworth "Enchantress" Lake St. Clair
 
J

jeff jones

Been there!

The area around the hatches is a combination of fiberglass cloth, resin, and a non-structural filler (like bondo). The headliner thickness varies greatly right around the hatches, from 1/8 inch to 3/8 inch or so. You should be able to securely fasten your frames with small screws. Be careful to drill the right size pilot holes and then counter-bore them to ensure the gel coat stays put when you drive your screws. Screw length should be about 1/2 inch longer than your frame thickness, but be aware that the pilot hole must be deep enough (if you run into the filler) to accomadate the screw length. Masking tape on the bit works well as a depth gauge. You are going to have to deal with some severe curvatures in the frames too, as the headliner in all four hatches is quite convex. In case you are wondering, I found out the makeup of the area's while re-bedding the hatches. Some of the screws were stripped (out of the bondo stuff) and I ground out the area's to fill with glass and epoxy. Let me know how building the frames works out. I am considering the same thing, but am a bit wary about fitting to the curved surfaces! Jeff Escapade
 
S

Scott Johnston

another option

While not as asthetically pleasing as wood framed screens, we found that velcro strips glued to the headliner worked well to hold the mesh in place. We also have some cloth covers with velcro cut to the same fit. These help to keep the interior cool, and stops the sun from waking you up on the morning after! Scott 83-H34 Island Hops
 
E

Ed Schenck

Screen fix.

I was just about to write about velcro when Scott's contribution showed up. I went one step farther and used small screws to secure the velcro to the headliner. I couldn't find a glue that would hold up. Small-headed screws about 3/8" don't hinder the hook & loop connection. Now I have no drooping.
 
W

Winni Johnston

To expand on what Scott said..

When I did the mesh covers for the hatches, I bought the ultra fine mosquito netting at an army navy surplus store. The cost was about $3.00 a yard 60" width. To avoid sagging, I outlined the hatch on poster board before cutting the netting for an exact fit. I used the double glue backed velcro purchased at Walmart in the arts and craft section. I got the narrowest width they sold. The edges of the netting was then lined with strips of velcro measured to fit exactly. The solid covers that Scott mentioned we use is made from a blue sunbrella fabric. Believe it or not Sunbrella can be purchased for as cheap as $6.00/p/yd. The same method is followed to make the solid covers to go over the meshing. The entire project was less than $10.00. My next project is to do something similar for the companionway as I still have lots of netting left over. Winni s/v Island Hops H34
 
Status
Not open for further replies.