Finally on board

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
After overheating my first sail I badly reinjured my tennis elbow changing the impeller. Using a screwdriver and stuck brass screws did it in. It has just refused to heal leaving me with a second season with almost no sailing to show for it. Not that I had time this year anyway with the unbelievable lack if staff at the company I got stuck working for.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,437
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Can u change the screws to little bolts? Something I have to do as I skipped a cycle....
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
I bought one of those run dry impellers and some new screws. I looked all over for bronze thumbscrews with no luck. I can get stainless thumbscrews but I think there would be a high risk of stripping the holes. If
I had them custom made it would be ridiculously expensive.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
I bought one of those run dry impellers and some new screws. I looked all over for bronze thumbscrews with no luck. I can get stainless thumbscrews but I think there would be a high risk of stripping the holes. If
I had them custom made it would be ridiculously expensive.
If they make it for your motor, these are pure gold.

http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html

 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Not really worth the cost as the pump faces aft on the 2QM15. I thought about trying to change that but it is more complicated than just putting the new impeller in. It will run dry without damage and the cost is only about another $20'per impeller.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,437
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
I pulled my pump today on the Volvo MD17C. I pulled it mainly because of the neglect of previous owners with a lot of rust underneath and going down the engine. I'm cleaning up all the rust and coating with corroseal and will repaint. Also have to do the saildrive ring. But I digress....I took the pump apart and three of the screw heads twisted off. The shanks came out easily by hand!! I bought this pump two yrs ago as a whole pump assy and I checked the screws before install..there was a little salt under the output fitting today. The output is a copper tube (typical volvo) that slips into a rubber seal and inserted into the pump. The other end goes to the heat exch and secured half way up to the timing case cover. If it's not just right, it will weep. This last summer I was tracing some other pesky water sources that I couldn't find and finally discovered that condensation forms on this copper tube and runs down to the pump and drips.. Hence a lot of the source for rust over time. (34 yrs)..I think I'm either going to buy another pump with threaded fittings or get the nipples and solder them in and go hose. I'll have to do that to the heat exch also. I might go whole hog and get this exch off the engine... That will take some engineering.....
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,437
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
I'm down to painting which I have to do from the cockpit locker and it's pouring rain. I've decided not to change the tubing config. I can get a pump with threaded ports but the threads are BSP which are not available locally. I'm sure they are somewhere though. If I soldered pipe ends and developed a leak later, (middle of nowhere) it would be hard to fix. The heat exchanger does not have different end configs...so I think I'll live with what I have and maybe insulate the raw water tube.