My sailboat(Chrysler 26) has an opening in the center of the transom where the long shaft outboard is mounted. Not good news when the engine is down and the kick up rudder is up. I plan to move the outboard bracket to the starboard side of the transom but how and where do I start to fiberglass the opening? The transom is not flat but has a slight curve. I have easy access to the inside of the transom thru the small lazerette. To view a picture of this transom go to the Chrysler Sailing Association website,scroll down to Photos,scroll down to A WOMAN IS A CURIOUS THING. Thanks
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Fiberglassing 101
Covering that hole looks like an interesting project. Due to the curves involved, the simplest way to fiberglass it would probably be to get a sheet of formica or thin (THIN!) plywood to use as a mold to build against. Cover the inside with a smooth (SMOOTH!) sheet of plastic (the formica already is plastic) so the fiberglass doesn't stick to it, and screw it over the hole from the outside. Getting it to lie flat, with no buckles or bumps may be difficult. Do a dry run to see how hard it is. If it doesn't lie flat, you'll have to try a different method. If it does go on nicely, take it off and you can now roughen up the edges of the hole on the insides so it has some "tooth" for the new fiberglass to bond to. Then re-attach the mold over the hole. (You don't want the mold to be rough, but you need to make sure it works before proceeding.) Then cut out your fiberglass cloth and/or mat and go at it. After its set (wait until it is!!) you can remove the mold, fill the screwholes, sand the whole thing smooth, and figure out how to get the patch to match the color of your transom. Since this section of the transom is obvioiusly not structurally important (its a HOLE!), an easier fix might be to simply get a sheet of suitable material (formica might not last well outdoors, but it might work well enough; marine plywood could be mahogany and look really sharp varnished) that looks good to you, paint the name & hailing port on it, and screw or bolt it over the hole, and forget about fiberglassing. You could even avoid putting new screw or bolt holes in the transom by attaching the outside piece to a batten that overlapped the hole on the inside. A lot quicker, probably cheaper, and possibly better looking. Would work for me.
Covering that hole looks like an interesting project. Due to the curves involved, the simplest way to fiberglass it would probably be to get a sheet of formica or thin (THIN!) plywood to use as a mold to build against. Cover the inside with a smooth (SMOOTH!) sheet of plastic (the formica already is plastic) so the fiberglass doesn't stick to it, and screw it over the hole from the outside. Getting it to lie flat, with no buckles or bumps may be difficult. Do a dry run to see how hard it is. If it doesn't lie flat, you'll have to try a different method. If it does go on nicely, take it off and you can now roughen up the edges of the hole on the insides so it has some "tooth" for the new fiberglass to bond to. Then re-attach the mold over the hole. (You don't want the mold to be rough, but you need to make sure it works before proceeding.) Then cut out your fiberglass cloth and/or mat and go at it. After its set (wait until it is!!) you can remove the mold, fill the screwholes, sand the whole thing smooth, and figure out how to get the patch to match the color of your transom. Since this section of the transom is obvioiusly not structurally important (its a HOLE!), an easier fix might be to simply get a sheet of suitable material (formica might not last well outdoors, but it might work well enough; marine plywood could be mahogany and look really sharp varnished) that looks good to you, paint the name & hailing port on it, and screw or bolt it over the hole, and forget about fiberglassing. You could even avoid putting new screw or bolt holes in the transom by attaching the outside piece to a batten that overlapped the hole on the inside. A lot quicker, probably cheaper, and possibly better looking. Would work for me.
why move
I owned the Chrysler26 several boats ago and one of the favorite things was the motor mount in the center of the boat. I marked for referance, the rope used to pull the rudder down at a point that would clear the lower unit of the motor and cleated it there.I never had a problem with it hitting.The clearance of the keel with the center board up and rudder at proper mark made for no problems. I would even "scull" with the rudder in this position when approaching dockside. That was one of the best boats I ever owned, had the Chrysler 22ft. prior to the 26ft..... too bad they don't make them anymore.
I owned the Chrysler26 several boats ago and one of the favorite things was the motor mount in the center of the boat. I marked for referance, the rope used to pull the rudder down at a point that would clear the lower unit of the motor and cleated it there.I never had a problem with it hitting.The clearance of the keel with the center board up and rudder at proper mark made for no problems. I would even "scull" with the rudder in this position when approaching dockside. That was one of the best boats I ever owned, had the Chrysler 22ft. prior to the 26ft..... too bad they don't make them anymore.
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