Fiberglass repair

Mar 13, 2022
8
Hunter 26.5 Paris Landing
Ok guys, for those of you who may be saying "wait, didn't he just post" let me explain I am breaking my posts up into different projects because I know different people have different experience to provide and I take one project at a time as I feel comfortable with them.

As we are putting together our project list to get our boat back in the water I know we need to fix some fiberglass work on the deck. When we bought the boat it had a cleat that had been broken off and a hole was left in the deck allowing moisture to get in. I want to fix that FOR SURE before we launch it again after this extensive refit. I figured if we are going to go through the process of a whole refit we might as well do it correctly. What I need is some advice on how to fix this to where I can reattach a new cleat when I'm done. I've never done fiberglass work but have done bondo on cars and tractors. My real concern is, do I need to put some sort of backing like a plate or something to help ensure the cleat doesn't get ripped out again. I'm afraid that if I don't put some sort of backing it won't be strong enough. Any advice you can provide is greatly appreciated.

In the 2nd photo I figured since I'm going to be fiberglassing anyway I might as well ask you guys if you think the rudder needs to be redone as well. If so do I just need to use a wire wheel to get off excess flaking and then just add new fiberglass on top of what all is there? Like I said I've never done fiberglass before but am willing to try and learn. I've been youtubing everything I can think of but I know nothing beats experience.

20220323_181035.jpg


20220323_181138.jpg


20220323_181118.jpg
 
May 25, 2012
4,338
john alden caravelle 42 sturgeon bay, wis
you seem to have a good assistant. that's huge.

backing plates are always preferred.

hard to say about the rudder until you grind down further i'm thinking.
 
May 17, 2004
5,390
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
+1 for a backing plate behind the cleat. If there is wood core in that area it’s probably rotten from the moisture so you’ll need to clean it back too solid wood and rebuild.

The rudder certainly does need some work. I’m no expert but it looks to me like there’s some kind of previous repair along the leading edge that failed and lost adhesion to the original surface. If that’s the case you’ll probably need to scrape and/or grind the repair off, assess the condition of what’s left, and potentially build the surface back up with new epoxy and fiberglass.
 

Johann

.
Jun 3, 2004
439
Leopard 39 Pensacola
These guys
as well as Parlay Revival, and Sailing Uma have some good diy info… oh Bryan Sailing too…
 
Jun 21, 2004
2,645
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
Agree with David that the rudder is failing from a previous repair. I would get some 36 or 80 grit paper and sand it down to solid glass, using a random orbital pneumatic or electric sander. Hopefully, it is sound and you can overlay with new matt and resin.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,971
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I’m a :plus: on use of backing plates. Some folk like to use fender washers. And the are fine for light work. But when a cleat is trying to hold your boat to a dock in 60mph breeze or you ask a speed boat to give you a tow your going to be thankful you used backing plates.

The rudder looks to have been damaged on the leading edge. The repair looks to be failing. As @BigEasy and @Davidasailor26 suggest grind the old repair back to solid material and then repair.

Alternatively you can buy, at some expense, a replacement rudder if the current one is to far gone. Check out Andy Miller on BoatworksToday.com or his YouTube channel. Talented instructor in the art of fiberglass repair. I believe he had a segment on rudder repair a year or two ago.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,271
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Can you access the area from inside the cabin to repair the cleat area? You wii have to loosen the rub rail and block it in order to repair. If any wood is wet, it will need to be removed but if you cannot, it needs to dry first. Agree you will need a backing plate. Good responses so far.
Suggest when starting a new thread, identify the boat and year model
 
Mar 13, 2022
8
Hunter 26.5 Paris Landing
I actually think I'm going to tackle the rudder repair first as I think it will be easier and I can work on it in the shop as I wait for the better weather to tackle the cleat hole. I am going to do the backing plate. My question to you guys now is on the underside of the deck down in the compartment, do I actually affix the backing plate into the fiberglass and make it permanent or do I use it as a huge washer essentially not affixing it into fiberglass. For those of you who are wondering by the way I'm working on a Hunter 26.5
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,971
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
On my winches and Cleats, I used pieces of aluminum plate. They were cut larger than the winch or cleat base. They were drilled to accept the through bolts and tightened to the underside of the deck stacking a washer on the backing plate and a nylock nut. The through holes were prepared as indicated in the Marine-To website... (Rebedding Deck Hardware With Bed-It Butyl Tape - Marine How To). I wrapped the bolt with butyl and then pulled the bolt tight from underneath the deck.

Secure and water tight.

Practical Sailor did an article about backing plates that has some good information to help a sailor.