EZ Glide Questions - Turns into rebuild

[kbgunn]

I've been sailing about a year and I purchased a new boat in May. I recently realized it is equipped with the EZ Glide system, but the previous owner wasn't using it and it wasn't rigged. I would like to start using it as it is an awesome upgrade! Here are some pics.

Forward double block with becket

Car with standup block. Also another car block attached which I'm guessing is to guide the loaded sheet around the stanchion to avoid chafe. This will be an issue for the EZ Glide control line too.

Sheet goes aft to a turning car identical to the one behind the standup car, then up to the winch.

Finally, the optional fairlead and cam cleat was being used on cabin top tracks with the furling line (I immediately stopped using it for this purpose because the friction was making life unbearable).

I called Garhauer for setup and reeving diagrams but got lost on hold and transferred around. Maybe my vocabulary isn't strong enough to describe the boat jewelry well enough. Also, they don't have a great way to share visual evidence effectively. Either way, I didn't get a satisfactory answer to my call. So the questions are:
1. Control line sizing and reaving, what works best? I've read 7/16th. Seems hefty. Can I get by with 1/4" or 3/8". I can't find a diagram for reeving the control line i.e. tie line to forward double block becket, aft to stand up car, back forward to top or bottom sheave??, etc. etc.
2. The two swivel turning block cars seem to be used to guide the sheet around the stanchions. Is this common? Is there a better way? Seems to add a lot of friction..
3. Lube: Is PTFE spray on the track the best approach?

Thanks,
KBG

 

[dlochner]

It looks like you're missing pieces. Adjustable genoa cars are pretty simple in concept.

Here's a link to the Harken system: https://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3899

Your parts, will of course, look a little different from the Harken parts, but should be close enough. There should be a fixed double cheek block a the forward end of the track. The turning block should have a single or double cheek block. The control line should lead to a cam cleat, exactly how will depend on your boat. The genoa sheet should lead through the stand up block back to a turning block and then to the winch.

 

[Joe]

First, you have your sail's sheets hard against the stanchions... that can't be good. When the sail is unfurled, you won't have that problem.... but I would try to figure something out.... one solution is to move the car forward. Anyway, give it some thought.

Regarding the EZ glide... I have the system on my boat... on the genoa track, same as yours. You locate the control end (the forward, fixed block) at your estimated maximum forward travel limit for the lead car. Reef your sail to say 50%.. bring the sheet down the clew bisect line to the track... that's where you would move the car if you reefed. Locate the control block a foot or so ahead of the lead.

Now.... completely unfurl the sail... and do the same thing with the sheet to find the neutral location you're most likely to set the lead car... remember you'll be adjusting the car forward and backward from this point at least 3 notches each way.... This will help you determine the length of the control line you'll need. ... By the way, 5/16 basic double braid, such as NE Sta Set, is more that adequate to handle this gear... Anyway, you'll want to move the "optional" fairlead/cam cleat back to the genoa track..... but.... you could just install a cleat on the coaming, angled toward the control block and it'd work just as well.

The sheet's turning block on the genoa track accomplishes two things... one is to insure a constant fair angle to the winch.... the other is to make it easier to pull the car back. If there is a lot of upward pull from behind it gets increasingly difficult to move the car backwards under load the closer to the winch you get.... On my boat I added a doubled length of elastic shock cord, anchored about three feet aft on a stanchion base with a small block and caribiner. The ends have snap hooks that you can attach to the car.... or one to the car and one to a stanchion base... depending on how much stretch or tension is needed... for instance, if you reef and you want to pull the car quite a bit forward, you can unhook one end and clip it to a fixed point... this doubles the length of the cord. All this may be unnecessary.... but ideally, the cord will help pull the car backwards along with the lifting action of the sheet.

The pictures I'm showing are pretty old... I installed the system at least 15 years or more ago... but you'll be able to pick out the basics... I suggest downloading the pictures so you can expand them to see the detail... The blocks on the car are stacked, unlike your newer system... but they're still 4:1.. I tied a short loop of line to the car to help pull it back... 'cause half the time the elastic cord needs some help... heh, heh.

You can PM me if you have trouble... but once you get it working you'll want to tweak to suit yourself... good luck.


I added a picture of the gear I use. I remove it every time I leave the boat, takes about 5 minutes to connect everything ..sheets, control line and shock cord.. From the right... the elastic cord. Note the connections. then the control line...(disregard the harness).... there's a simple caribiner that hooks the line to the control block. and the genoa sheets. In the photo the fairlead/cam cleat is mounted on an existing inner track... that's where I would put a cleat on your boat.

 

[dlochner]

Is there some kind of bearing material on the slide or is it just a metal car bearing on the metal track?

 

[kbgunn]

Abbreviated quote...
I added a picture of the gear I use. I remove it every time I leave the boat, takes about 5 minutes to connect everything ..sheets, control line and shock cord.. From the right... the elastic cord. Note the connections. then the control line...(disregard the harness).... there's a simple caribiner that hooks the line to the control block. and the genoa sheets. In the photo the fairlead/cam cleat is mounted on an existing inner track... that's where I would put a cleat on your boat.

Thanks @Joe ! Your post is extremely helpful and exactly what I needed to get this system setup initially. As with all systems, it'll get tweaked as experience grows. Many thanks to you.

KBG

 

[kbgunn]

Is there some kind of bearing material on the slide or is it just a metal car bearing on the metal track?

This is a metal to metal junction. The metal car rides on the metal T-track. Nothing like a teflon slide in between.
I use this dry lube spray on metal/nylon sail slugs, sliding hatch rails, etc:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster...{7:0}++blaster+{brand}+ptfe+{rest}++qu:{ptfe}

Figured it would be less messy than a graphite or similar lube. But I'm open to other suggestions.

 

[dlochner]

This is a metal to metal junction. The metal car rides on the metal T-track. Nothing like a teflon slide in between.
I use this dry lube spray on metal/nylon sail slugs, sliding hatch rails, etc:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-Advanced-Dry-Lube-with-Teflon-16-TDL/202532762?keyword=blaster+PTFE&semanticToken=2105000+++>++++st:{blaster+ptfe}:st++cn:{0:0}++cn:{7:0}++blaster+{brand}+ptfe+{rest}++qu:{ptfe}

Figured it would be less messy than a graphite or similar lube. But I'm open to other suggestions.

Unfortunately that really limits the usefulness of the towable car systems as the friction will bind up the cars. The really nice, really expensive Harken system has ball bearing cars that ride on a raised track. They are sweet, but unaffordable. Harken used to make a set of cars that had teflon (or something similar) bearing surfaces, not as nice as the ball bearing cars, but much more affordable and they worked reasonably well. I miss my adjustable cars on my last boat.

 

[Rick D]

Huh. I have a Garhauer system that rides on bearings, at least on the sides. I had to load it on to the track. I have not had a problem moving it when loaded but did add an aft line when I found the shock cord inadequate for the travel I wanted. FWIW

 

[dlochner]

Huh. I have a Garhauer system that rides on bearings, at least on the sides. I had to load it on to the track. I have not had a problem moving it when loaded but did add an aft line when I found the shock cord inadequate for the travel I wanted. FWIW

Does it ride on the standard T track or a special track?

While Garhauer makes good gear, their catalog is short on information.

 

[Joe]

This is a metal to metal junction. The metal car rides on the metal T-track. Nothing like a teflon slide in between.
I use this dry lube spray on metal/nylon sail slugs, sliding hatch rails, etc:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-Advanced-Dry-Lube-with-Teflon-16-TDL/202532762?keyword=blaster+PTFE&semanticToken=2105000+++>++++st:{blaster+ptfe}:st++cn:{0:0}++cn:{7:0}++blaster+{brand}+ptfe+{rest}++qu:{ptfe}

Figured it would be less messy than a graphite or similar lube. But I'm open to other suggestions.

As long as I've used the EZ glide system I've never had any car sliding issues. I have never had to lubricate them in any way. Nor have I read or heard of any similar issues in this forum from the many of us that use the system. I wouldn't worry about it. There's a reason they call it "EZ Glide"....I'm trying to recall, it's been so long since I installed it.. but I believe it has bearings in the car... it rolls like it does.

I also noted in your pictures there seems to be a second car tied to the ez glide car (the one with the open, stand up block) the sheet is rove through both blocks.... Whatever that is.... it ain't right. Looks like he just wanted to make a hand adjustable system because the ez glide car doesn't have a pin stop, so he used the old car as the stopper.

 

[Bob S]

This is what I got

 

[dlochner]

This is what I got

Thanks. It is really what the OP needs!

I'll have to send an email to Garhauer. If I can get towable cars for ~$400 I'm in, if they have ball bearings.

 

[Rick D]

Does it ride on the standard T track or a special track?

While Garhauer makes good gear, their catalog is short on information.

It was the standard track on my Hunter but they had me measure carefully to custom make the unit to fit. No extra cost.

 

[Jackdaw]

Thanks. It is really what the OP needs!

I'll have to send an email to Garhauer. If I can get towable cars for ~$400 I'm in, if they have ball bearings.

The Garhauer system slides on a graphite rod under the T-track. It works pretty well I hear. The First 260 came with a similar system from the factory and it's fine under pretty big loads.

 

[kbgunn]

As long as I've used the EZ glide system I've never had any car sliding issues. I have never had to lubricate them in any way. Nor have I read or heard of any similar issues in this forum from the many of us that use the system. I wouldn't worry about it. There's a reason they call it "EZ Glide"....I'm trying to recall, it's been so long since I installed it.. but I believe it has bearings in the car... it rolls like it does.

I also noted in your pictures there seems to be a second car tied to the ez glide car (the one with the open, stand up block) the sheet is rove through both blocks.... Whatever that is.... it ain't right. Looks like he just wanted to make a hand adjustable system because the ez glide car doesn't have a pin stop, so he used the old car as the stopper.

You are probably right about the second car behind the EZ glide car. I circled it in my original post because it didn't seem to belong. It is the car with the pin for the T-track the way it is currently configured and it is a PITA to relocate unless completely unloaded. I will remove it when I set up the control lines. The EZ glide car should live up to it's name at that point!

 

[kbgunn]

This is what I got

Thanks @Bob S !
A picture is worth....... many saved hours of trial and error.

 

[dlochner]

Sent an inquiry to Garhauer. The E-Z glides run on delrin rods. Guess what I"m putting next year's outfitting list?

 

[Joe]

This is what I got

I have mine rigged using the "alternate method" for the control line cam cleat. The cleat is on the coaming rather than down on the track... allowing the tail of the line to stay in the cockpit coaming box, out of the way.

 

[kbgunn]

I was re-configuring the EZ Glide and some of the delrin bearings went for a swim..... *grumble, grumble*

So I went searching for new bearings. The block bearing uses 3/16" round delrin. I found these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07931VSX3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The standup car uses delrin rods between the car and the top of the t-track and 1/8" round bearings between the car and the underside of the t-track. I couldn't find both size round bearings in one source. I found the small ones here: https://bearingballstore.com/index....Path=221_227&zenid=09g7s3g907h29noc6g2bjvr8a1
Here's some pics:

Filling the standup car with bearings was a challenge. The trick was to cut a piece of cardboard to insert and keep the bearings in place until installing on the t-track.

On to installing on the boat.......

 

[kbgunn]

Got the system installed with the control lines I found in the lazarette.

Beautiful morning on the lake. Winds 10knts. Was able to trim the cars while loaded and get the tell tales streaming smartly. Trimming forward was a cinch. Trimming aft required some coaxing. I will install a line on the car to let me pull the car back as others have indicated. Not that it required a lot of force, just the pressure of jib sheet alone wasn't enough.

Cheers,
KBG