Could someone please tell me what is the proper way to extend AC wiring on my Catalina 30? I am trying to install a smart plug receptacle for shore power and of course there isn't any extra wire to work with. I want to cut back on the 120 wire to get fresh shiny strands and add a length of new wire to go to the smart plug receptacle. I was looking at waterproof butt connectors for submersible sump pumps rated at 600 volts or do I need to add a junction box and run new wire to receptacle? By the way this is long overdue upgrade, after inspection of the old 1930's receptacle the ground wire had melted the insulation and I barely pulled on it and it fell off, not something you want on a 120v connection!
Extending 120 volt AC wiring
- Thread starter barnstormer
- Start date
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,220
What about buying a new length of wire and replace the whole length of old wire? Would be the safest way to resolve your short wire issue.
Good choice selecting the Smart Plug fitting.
Good choice selecting the Smart Plug fitting.
I guess that would be the best solution but it would be a bear to pull that wire thru, it's bundled with all the 120 wiring on the boat.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,220
So true.
I confess I am a bit sappy when dealing with such dilemma’s. My mind goes back to my youth and Mary Poppins. It may or may not work for you.
While you’re at it, please consider increasing wire size by a gauge and do so with tinned stranded copper. A chore for sure, but worth it. No idea of your boat age, but some older models used minimum gauge wire of the un-tinned version. Unwise to use butt splices on main shore power connections, IMHO.
Also, no Smart plug here. Yes, they make for a good upgrade. Our 1991 boat came with and remains the old standard marine grade 30 amp plug and socket. Used properly they last without issues. Proper use the key.
Also, no Smart plug here. Yes, they make for a good upgrade. Our 1991 boat came with and remains the old standard marine grade 30 amp plug and socket. Used properly they last without issues. Proper use the key.
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That's one of my next off-season projects. Now that my refrigeration has been revived, I want to take the source and ground off of the engine starter and run it to a distribution fuse box with heavier cable.
If the wire between the shore power inlet and the AC main breaker is more than 10 wire feet, and it often is, then an additional breaker is required at the inlet anyway. (ten wire feet not as the crow flies, ISO/RCD (European) standards are shorter) Also make sure this three conductor AC wire is a minimum of 10AWG for a 30A service.
Now would also be a good time to bring to boat into safety compliance by adding an ELCI breaker at the inlet (ABYC requirement that insurers are starting to mandate) and if you don't have a fail-safe galvanic isolator that would also be a wise choice.
Now would also be a good time to bring to boat into safety compliance by adding an ELCI breaker at the inlet (ABYC requirement that insurers are starting to mandate) and if you don't have a fail-safe galvanic isolator that would also be a wise choice.
Not sure of the vintage of your Catalina; however, newer boats are supposed to have a water proof double pole breaker box between the location of the shoreside AC power inlet/receptacle and the breaker panel. So that would usually be a location just INSIDE the transom adjacent to the backside of the power inlet. (See attached photo). If you really think that it is necessary to replace your current wire because it has deteriorated or is undersized, then go for it. If the current wire is serviceable, then hook the existing wire to a breaker box and run a new “pigtail” wire from the box to the smart plug. Now you are ABYC compliant! BTW, the smart plug is one of the best upgrades that I have done on my boat; you will like it!
My boat already had the breaker installed; therefore, I only had to convert the oem plug to the smart plug. All of the screw holes & main cutout for the receptacle were the same, so the conversion was simple....took about an hour.
My boat already had the breaker installed; therefore, I only had to convert the oem plug to the smart plug. All of the screw holes & main cutout for the receptacle were the same, so the conversion was simple....took about an hour.
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Having a hard time finding a waterproof breaker box like you show in your pics, any idea what type they are?
Was thinking the same when I looked at the enlarged picture. Seems that Beneteau could have positioned the AC inlets and shower hoses in different locations or at least farther apart. That configuration was original from factory. I think the design should have been better; however, I am not so concerned that I am going to reposition them.
I purchased it directly from Beneteau USA.
Part number: 058509
Description: Breaker (bipol). 32Amp Locker IP55, made in Italy
Seems that Blue Sea would also have these available. Call Beneteau in Marion,SC and speak to Ward or Debbie in the parts dept and they should be able to ship one to you, if you can’t find another source.
