I have a problem with the exhaust on my oday 30. the exhaust pipe broke at the last elbow right before the water injection. It look like the exhaust is made of 11/2" threaded metal pipe except that the last piece before it changes to rubber hose has a 1/2" nipple for the water injection. Has anyone had repairs on thier exhaust, I'm not sure if I should try and replace just that elbow and drop tube with the injector nipple or replace the whole thing. The boat is a 1982 oday 30 with a 5416 universal Diesel. Any Info would be appreciated Rich
Exhaust Problems
- Thread starter Rch
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If it was my boat
I'd replace the entire riser including all the pipe and elbows, and the mixing elbow. I might even replace the flange (and gasket) where the riser pipe goes into the engine manifold, depending upon its condition when inspected. That pipe (and mixing elbow) won't last forever (as you've found), and when part of it goes, the rest isn't far behind. The exhaust and raw water makes for a tough environment, and generally don't last much more than 7-10 years from what I've heard. If it fails, you can have lots of diesel smoke, and it won't clear the cooling water out of the mufler, so you can't continue to operate the engine. That's my take on it. (Others on this Board are more knowledgable, if they can be found during sailing weather.) Ed.
I'd replace the entire riser including all the pipe and elbows, and the mixing elbow. I might even replace the flange (and gasket) where the riser pipe goes into the engine manifold, depending upon its condition when inspected. That pipe (and mixing elbow) won't last forever (as you've found), and when part of it goes, the rest isn't far behind. The exhaust and raw water makes for a tough environment, and generally don't last much more than 7-10 years from what I've heard. If it fails, you can have lots of diesel smoke, and it won't clear the cooling water out of the mufler, so you can't continue to operate the engine. That's my take on it. (Others on this Board are more knowledgable, if they can be found during sailing weather.) Ed.
Just Happened
Hi RCH: The same thing just recently happened to me on my 1983 034 with the M25 Universal. Based on your description, sounds like we have the same set up. Mine went out at the same connection just before I reached my marina. I had the whole thing replaced with the exception of the flange that was in good shape. You are only talking about two more elbows and an a couple of additional sections of pipe. You can probably find what you need at a plumbing supply. The biggest problem was finding the proper gasket. The system was fabricated and a local machine shop welded the injector nipple into the down leg. Luck with it!
Hi RCH: The same thing just recently happened to me on my 1983 034 with the M25 Universal. Based on your description, sounds like we have the same set up. Mine went out at the same connection just before I reached my marina. I had the whole thing replaced with the exception of the flange that was in good shape. You are only talking about two more elbows and an a couple of additional sections of pipe. You can probably find what you need at a plumbing supply. The biggest problem was finding the proper gasket. The system was fabricated and a local machine shop welded the injector nipple into the down leg. Luck with it!
Thinking the same thing!
Thanks Guys! I talked to a technician at Torresens Marine about the problem. He told me the exhaust riser was not a Universal design. It was an Oday design custom made to fit the boat. Seems to be just threaded black iron pipe. The gentleman I talked to said they did stock the flange on the rear of the engine ($56.00). He did say to be carefull not to break off the bolts securing the flange to the engine. J.B., did you have to remove the cone shaped flange on the rear of the engine. I didn't unwrap all the fiberglass insulation from the whole riser. I just unwrapped far enough to see the problem. Does the riser thread into the flange or manifold on the rear of the engine like the rest of the fittings or does it bolt to it?
Thanks Guys! I talked to a technician at Torresens Marine about the problem. He told me the exhaust riser was not a Universal design. It was an Oday design custom made to fit the boat. Seems to be just threaded black iron pipe. The gentleman I talked to said they did stock the flange on the rear of the engine ($56.00). He did say to be carefull not to break off the bolts securing the flange to the engine. J.B., did you have to remove the cone shaped flange on the rear of the engine. I didn't unwrap all the fiberglass insulation from the whole riser. I just unwrapped far enough to see the problem. Does the riser thread into the flange or manifold on the rear of the engine like the rest of the fittings or does it bolt to it?
Had it done
I wished I could take credit for having done it myself, but I can't. I was pressed for time and had to get the marina shop to do it for me. There are three bolts that hold mine to the manifold, two at the top and one at the bottom, then the hoses of course. The system was taken loose at the manifold and dismantled. I wasn't there when it was completely taken apart, and I'm not sure how the pipe is affixed to the flange, but I'm pretty sure it just threads in, at least that's what it looks like. The system is all black iron and any plumbing shop can probably fix you up if your going to do it yourself. I would give the flange bolts a good soaking with WD40 or something like that and let it soak for a few days before taking it out. The bolts are around 3/8 of an inch but I sure wouldn't want to pop one of them off at the manifold, that would be another problem Sorry I can't tell you more, good luck with it.
I wished I could take credit for having done it myself, but I can't. I was pressed for time and had to get the marina shop to do it for me. There are three bolts that hold mine to the manifold, two at the top and one at the bottom, then the hoses of course. The system was taken loose at the manifold and dismantled. I wasn't there when it was completely taken apart, and I'm not sure how the pipe is affixed to the flange, but I'm pretty sure it just threads in, at least that's what it looks like. The system is all black iron and any plumbing shop can probably fix you up if your going to do it yourself. I would give the flange bolts a good soaking with WD40 or something like that and let it soak for a few days before taking it out. The bolts are around 3/8 of an inch but I sure wouldn't want to pop one of them off at the manifold, that would be another problem Sorry I can't tell you more, good luck with it.
R
richard
Its not too hard
I have an O'Day 31 with a Universal M-18. Sounds like you have a similar setup. I fabricated a new exhaust using galvanized pipe and elbows. The pipe just screws into the flange on the manifold. The water injector elbow is made up of a threaded pipe T in top of the down leg of the exhaust pipe. I used a reducer (bushing) in the T and a pipe to hose barb connecter to screw into the reducer. The hot cooling water comes out of the engine through a hose and dumps into the exhaust through the hose barb fitting. Some guys drill a hole in an appropriate spot for the mixer and then have a smaller pipe welded on but mine works fine and I can replace it in 15 minutes for $3.00 if and when I need to. Got all this at Orchard Supply Hardware. Then wrapped it all with fiberglass insulating tape from the marine store. I did get a new flange for the exhaust manifold. I sprayed the nuts liberally with aero kroil and they all came off ok except 1 where the stud unscrewed from the manifold. No problem, just screwed in a new stud. Hope this helps. Let me know if you want any specifics
I have an O'Day 31 with a Universal M-18. Sounds like you have a similar setup. I fabricated a new exhaust using galvanized pipe and elbows. The pipe just screws into the flange on the manifold. The water injector elbow is made up of a threaded pipe T in top of the down leg of the exhaust pipe. I used a reducer (bushing) in the T and a pipe to hose barb connecter to screw into the reducer. The hot cooling water comes out of the engine through a hose and dumps into the exhaust through the hose barb fitting. Some guys drill a hole in an appropriate spot for the mixer and then have a smaller pipe welded on but mine works fine and I can replace it in 15 minutes for $3.00 if and when I need to. Got all this at Orchard Supply Hardware. Then wrapped it all with fiberglass insulating tape from the marine store. I did get a new flange for the exhaust manifold. I sprayed the nuts liberally with aero kroil and they all came off ok except 1 where the stud unscrewed from the manifold. No problem, just screwed in a new stud. Hope this helps. Let me know if you want any specifics
New Design
Well, I went up to the boat on Saturday with plans on trying to repair the exhaust system if the Marine had not done so. When I arrived The old one was removed, flange and all. After talking to the owner of the marina he told me his plan. He spoke with Westerbeke Directly, they told him that was a poor design of Oday's. They recomended a complete new way of doing it. They sent him a new flange, another extrusion that connects to the flange and injects the water right behind the engine. You can then run rubber the rest of the way. I'll see how it turns out this Friday since they sent him the wrong flange. Thanks for all the information from everyone. Rich
Well, I went up to the boat on Saturday with plans on trying to repair the exhaust system if the Marine had not done so. When I arrived The old one was removed, flange and all. After talking to the owner of the marina he told me his plan. He spoke with Westerbeke Directly, they told him that was a poor design of Oday's. They recomended a complete new way of doing it. They sent him a new flange, another extrusion that connects to the flange and injects the water right behind the engine. You can then run rubber the rest of the way. I'll see how it turns out this Friday since they sent him the wrong flange. Thanks for all the information from everyone. Rich
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