Oday 272 LE 1989 universal 10 hp diesel - leak in exhaust where exhaust pipe from engine connects to short pipe with 'Y" connection for water line and exhaust hose. Cannot get a good look without removing. How does the "Y" pipe peice connect to the exhaust pipe? Tips for removing the pipes?
Exhaust leak
- Thread starter luby
- Start date
- Status
I just went through this a few months ago. Sounds like your mixing pipe has corroded and failed. Check out obtaining a replacement one at torrensen.com they'll have schematics which you help to visualize the parts involved for your model number engine. Use lots of PB Blaster and patience to break the bolts free.
It might be welded or it might be screwed in. You have to remove the insulation and take a look at it. They are not all the same. As I said in your other post, you might be able to make one yourself or have the section with the "Y" in it fabricated at a welding shop. I made my own from parts at the local big box hardware store using iron pipe and threaded reducers and nipples.
The black pipe will most likely not come apart. Screwed or welded it will pretty much be corroded together, however can be replaced from stock pipe and fittings from a good hardware store. The PB Blaster was used to help break loose the studs that mounted the exhaust flange to the exhaust manifold.
Is your engine model M15 or 5411?
Is your engine model M15 or 5411?
Dish washer parts!
Mine went out in the middle of the Chesapeake. Smoke in the cabin, no sails on board.
Universal at least in my case chose to use plumbing parts to run the exhaust from the CI fitting bolted to the block. They were all schedule 40 galvanized or black pipe and fittings. The weak link is the last piece which is a tail piece used to connect a dish washer to a 1.5" drain north of the "P" trap. They used the dishwasher drain connection to receive the sea water which exits the heat exchanger. I went to a True Value hardware store in Deal MD. and bought galvanized nipples, ells, and a tee. I recall that the fittings were 1.25" but I cold be wrong. I replaced the tail piece with a 1.25x.75 tee, screwed a barbed by mip nipple (bronze) into the side of the tee, clamped the heat exchanger discharge line to the barbed fitting. You will need a large vice, a large pipe wrench, heat, and PB Blaster to get the old one apart. One extra joint in each arm would also help. I saved and reused the old insulation. Bon appetit.
Mine went out in the middle of the Chesapeake. Smoke in the cabin, no sails on board.
Universal at least in my case chose to use plumbing parts to run the exhaust from the CI fitting bolted to the block. They were all schedule 40 galvanized or black pipe and fittings. The weak link is the last piece which is a tail piece used to connect a dish washer to a 1.5" drain north of the "P" trap. They used the dishwasher drain connection to receive the sea water which exits the heat exchanger. I went to a True Value hardware store in Deal MD. and bought galvanized nipples, ells, and a tee. I recall that the fittings were 1.25" but I cold be wrong. I replaced the tail piece with a 1.25x.75 tee, screwed a barbed by mip nipple (bronze) into the side of the tee, clamped the heat exchanger discharge line to the barbed fitting. You will need a large vice, a large pipe wrench, heat, and PB Blaster to get the old one apart. One extra joint in each arm would also help. I saved and reused the old insulation. Bon appetit.
Yeah, funny thing OldHokie, mine failed at a most inopportune time as well. I never periodically inspected the exhaust, I will now. It seems that the weak spot would be the threaded connection between the mixing pipe and the last elbow.
On Karma which has a Universal 5424, a new Universal exhaust flange and mixing elbow cost me around $180, I replaced all the studs and nuts as well. the 1 1/4" pipe nipples and elbows cost about $30. I used header wrap material from an auto parts store to replace the insulation as the old stuff simply fell apart. I was told to stay away from galvanized pipe and use black steel instead.
I'm not a plumber and didn't notice that I ended up with an unplumbed exhaust hose connection till it was too late.
On Karma which has a Universal 5424, a new Universal exhaust flange and mixing elbow cost me around $180, I replaced all the studs and nuts as well. the 1 1/4" pipe nipples and elbows cost about $30. I used header wrap material from an auto parts store to replace the insulation as the old stuff simply fell apart. I was told to stay away from galvanized pipe and use black steel instead.
I'm not a plumber and didn't notice that I ended up with an unplumbed exhaust hose connection till it was too late.
Attachments
- Status