Evinrude 6HP 2- cycle question

[Skip Gundlach]

Evinrude 6HP 2- cycle question

Our engine isn't developing full power. We had not used it for some time, but the problem existed long before the layup.

Initially, it sounded like it was 4-cycling, with a bit of a rattle - perhaps like preignition.

I first changed the plugs. There was no change in behavior. Then I ran a dose of sea-foamed fuel through it, and there seems to be some improvement. Very infrequently, it will sound "right" - but usually it's overtones of one cylinder running properly, and the other mostly 4-cycling (if that's what's happening).

This is a 100/1 motor, but the dealer who sold it to us cautioned that it was critical not to exceed that, and the 50/1 fuel we use in our Johnson 15 would be fine. To simplify inventory/space, that's what we've done for very nearly all of the time we've owned it. If that's a contributor, I guess I could manage the different fuels.

Ideas?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
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[kloudie1]

50:1 should be OK..especially if it used to run OK on that ratio.. Probably gook in the carb or an air leak in the carb base or a long shot might be sticky reed valve.. does it have ignition points (like my 6 does)? might be some mis-adjustment/ loose connections?

 

[Skip Gundlach]

I have not dug into the engine other than to change the plugs, so I have no idea if there are points, or one or two coils, and the like. My first bet was sticky reed valve, but running it for several hours so far with Seafoam hasn't cured that.

Consensus elsewhere is predominantly carb, with N>1 dead rings, carbon buildup and electrical commentary, each...

I wonder if there's a tutorial on cleaning the carb like there is for the Honda2000...

 

[Stu Jackson]

I wonder if there's a tutorial on cleaning the carb like there is for the Honda2000...

Skip,

Betcha there's a YouTube on it.

Good luck.

 

[Skip Gundlach]

I have this congenital aversion to YouTube, but especially so in the Bahamas. Give me something I can look at, any time along the way in my work, instead of a video I have to be in front of.

That said, I could at least get smarter, if I could find one, and have bandwidth to watch it...

 

[WayneH]

Skip, It sounds a little like you "might" have a bad ignition coil. My old Johnson 6 cracked one of its coils and it would run fine for a bit then bog down like it was running on one cylinder (which it was) then the coil would kick back on and the engine would run fine.

IF and I'm not sure this is the reason, you'll have to pull the flywheel off the top of the engine. A cracked ignition coil should be obvious when you get the wheel off. And it's a simple change out once you get to it.

 

[Skip Gundlach]

My first test was to take my spare plug wire and substitute out for each one. Along the way I discovered two potential issues.

First was that the lower plug's coil spot was a bit corroded. I'll hit that with some crocus cloth and corrosion-block all the connections points.

Second was that the first plug at the coil end appeared to be not fully seated.

In the end, I'd swapped out both plug wires and run in neutral; removing one plug wire made it nearly impossible to run. Slight improvements every time I made a wire change.

So, I took off the spare, and made sure that both originals were well seated (and improved the run of one of these 3-4" cables). Idling much improved, and some improvement with only me up, WOT.

Perhaps some running with a better ignition will clean out and improve the running as more fuel goes through it. In the meantime, I'll pull the cover again (a bit of a nuisance due to our hoist handle we also have to remove and reset, a several step process) and burnish and protect the connection points.

 

[topcat0399]

Skip - if you look the the many Evinrude articles on the link below you might find something.

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/

I'm a big Leroy fan.

 

[Skip Gundlach]

The plot thickens.

When I bought the lightly used engine, the dealer who took it in trade didn't have the correct manual for it, so gave me a 2005 version.

It specifies 50-1, so I have no idea what caused the discussion about 100-1, as the manual is for a 5 years later model, but any such fuel has long left the engine, as I may NEVER have run it that way, as it could run on 50, and even recommended 25-1 for heavy or racing type use. So, I'm reasonably sure we don't have a fouling issue due to too much oil. The engine type shows that it matches my hood, which says Johnson on it, J6RSSM, a 2000 Johnson 6HP, recoil start, with the last M escaping me. Why I thought I had one each J and E engine, I can't imagine - but they work the same, so it's no issue other than to slap me upside the head

 

[Skip Gundlach]

So, I get the thing apart for the 4th or 5th time, and I'm helping a fellow cruiser figure out HIS poor-running engine. In the process, I'd brought along some emery cloth.

I burnished the coil posts - but noticed that that end of the spark plug wire was actually rusty.

Burnishing helped, but I ran back to our boat and grabbed the spare wire and went back to continue with him. Then I swapped out the rusty-ended one for my spare, which looked fine. All connections were also WD-40'd (what he had on hand). The spare swap and the burnishing(s) made a small improvement, each, but it's still not humming yet.

So, he'd bought some carb cleaner in town, but his is injectors. I swapped him sea foam (his sounds like maybe either one or more of the coils [he has 3] or plug wires, as it idles perfectly but fails under load for the carb cleaner, my {other} reason for my return to the boat), making sure this thread doesn't go off the rails into a discussion of his motor and injectors vs carbs

But my owner's manual, and, so far, all of my googling (remember I'm in the Bahamas, so it's not like most of you have) fails to turn up how to either rebuild/clean (besides putting in an ultrasonic bath) the carb, or, worse, how to get to the damn thing. The air cleaner has no discernible (well, not to me) means of opening, and the only way I can see to get to the carb involves taking off the recoil mechanism in order to get to the screw which holds what I presume to be the air cleaner.

Surely someone here has had their 2000 era 6HP carb in full view...

So, how do I spritz carb cleaner into this while it's running, before I risk losing parts overboard to do a full disassembly/cleanout?

And does anyone have some sort of visual (not YouTube - I don't have the bandwidth) illustration of what I have to look for if I take it off? I've rebuilt carbs so am not the least bit intimidated but don't want to miss something.

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
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- Dr. Samuel Johnson

 

[Zed]

You mention that it got better with SEaFoam. Sea Foam cannot stop ethanol damage, ethanol water absorption. It can only help keep your injectors clean. Help being the operant word.

Are you running gas from the pump(10-40% ethanol since the add the ethanol at the tank and its not even remotely accurate), or are you running ethanol FREE gas.

If you are not running ethanol Free gas, then you should try some of that. Its sounds like the proverbial ethanol issue.

 

[Skip Gundlach]

You mention that it got better with SEaFoam. Sea Foam cannot stop ethanol damage, ethanol water absorption. It can only help keep your injectors clean. Help being the operant word.

Are you running gas from the pump(10-40% ethanol since the add the ethanol at the tank and its not even remotely accurate), or are you running ethanol FREE gas.

If you are not running ethanol Free gas, then you should try some of that. Its sounds like the proverbial ethanol issue.

Sorry - I forgot to mention that: I use only marina gas, outrageously expensive, and alcohol free. Here in the Bahamas, there's no such idiocy, but 'regular' - even at the street level - is $5.62 a gallon...

No worries on ethanol fuel.

 

[kloudie1]

Can't help, Skip.. Mine is a 1967 model .. It only sees alcohol-free fuel and still runs fine..