Ever repair a float switch?

[Skipper]

I installed a new Rule float switch in January. Worked fine, then failed yesterday. I drained the icebox into the bilge, and the pump didn't come on. Tested, bypassed, fiddled with the float, etc. Pump worked on manual, and when jumping the float switch. At one point I got the switch to work, but with obviously reduced current to the pump. Then it failed altogether again.

So Rule is sending me a replacement. But I started wondering, what if I just wanted to fix the one I've got. What if I had to do it 'cause I'm somewhere with no access to new switches?

There is no obvious flaw on the switch externally. I'm thinking about busting the failed one apart(Rule didn't want it back). But, if someone knows what to look for, and who has taken one apart, maybe some up-front knowledge can be had, and I can save the old switch for when the new one fails.

 

[Bad Obsession]

Think of it this way.....If you had a switch that failed on something as important as a bilge pump, and you fix it can you truly trust it to work if you re-install it?

Peace of mind in the form of a new float switch is priceless. You can autopsy it to see why it broke but ultimately I would trash it. There is no sense trying to repair it if you really can't trust it.

Just my $0.02

 

[Stu Jackson]

I agree. If it was one of those white mercury filled jobs, they either work great forever, or just die. The newer ones built into the pumps don't have such a great rep either. After getting tired of pulling up on the float, I added a switch panel. Check all your connections, again. Good luck.

 

[Skipper]

Think of it this way.....If you had a switch that failed on something as important as a bilge pump, and you fix it can you truly trust it to work if you re-install it?

Peace of mind in the form of a new float switch is priceless. You can autopsy it to see why it broke but ultimately I would trash it. There is no sense trying to repair it if you really can't trust it.

Just my $0.02

'cause I might need it when I'm somewhere with no access to new switches, and the new one fails. I like to know how to fix equipment, including float switches, instead of relying on new parts, which I may not have at the time.

This failed one may get trashed; sacrificed for knowledge. However, if I break it open and stare at it like an ape at a monolith, then I've accomplished nothing. If someone knows what to look for and why, then I may find it, and I've not wasted. And maybe it's something simple which I can repair and then have another spare switch just in case I need it.

I'm highly suspicious that there is a notorious inner piece that fails on these things. I can't find any parts diagram or anything about the inner workings.

 

[Stu Jackson]

1. 'cause I might need it when I'm somewhere with no access to new switches, and the new one fails.

2. I'm highly suspicious that there is a notorious inner piece that fails on these things. I can't find any parts diagram or anything about the inner workings.

1. That's why I added the Rule switch panel: off, momentary on, auto

2. It's SEALED for a reason: mercury ain't good for ya.

There are other float switches on the market.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I think you would be looking for something that makes electrical contact when the float "floats". I'd look within the pivot area of the mechanism. It seems fairly obvious to say, but trace the positive lead.

Although I would guess that there isn't anything you could repair without breaking the housing, rendering it useless.

 

[Benny17441]

Guys, the float switch is hardly a critical part. It just allows for automatic operation of the convenience water pump to empty incidental water that flows into the bilge. Should there be a failure of a thru-hull or a major breach it will not a difference whether the switch is working or not as the limited capacity of the pump will not be able to keep with the inflow. Those are throwaway items not worth fixing. Some boats like the h27 Cherubini have such a shallow bilge that a float switch has no clearance to properly operate and the manufacturer just wired the pump to a manual switch so the owner could empty incidental water from the bilge when he stepped in the boat.

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

Maine Sail and others have written about the poor performance of these float switches since switching away from mercury due to health and environmental concerns. The best alternative seems to be the water witch electronic floats. But these are still parts that require regular replacement (every 5-10 years) or at the very least testing to ensure they are working properly.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

'cause I might need it when I'm somewhere with no access to new switches, and the new one fails. I like to know how to fix equipment, including float switches, instead of relying on new parts, which I may not have at the time.

.

For what they do, it seems like a false economy to depend on a used and questionable switch even as a spare. These things never last long so replacement is inevitable. Why not just buy a new one as a spare? They are cheap.

 

[Bad Obsession]

I agree with Don.

If it is broken, replace it. Buy a second one as a spare if you are concerned.

I used to do that with boat parts on critical systems. If it broke I bought two of them. One to put on and one as a spare. It is good planning and self sufficiency.

 

[Gunni]

You are using dated, failure-prone technology, too many parts, pieces, and vulnerable connections. Get a sealed solid state WaterWitch. Better switch and includes some nice features like pumping for 20 seconds after dry to purge the hose. Buy a second one and you are ready for Plan B.

 

[capta]

I have had to repair several, way back when, far, far from any stores. They are a pretty simple unit, with a glass tube filled with a conductive liquid (mercury back then) and two probes through the glass. If the contacts outside the glass can still accept (or still have) wires attached (soldered), then it's merely an electrical wiring job, seal it up and Bob's your uncle. If the glass is broken, then unless you can blow a new one (hey, MacGyver, got a sec?), you are pretty much out of luck.
I'd bet though, it's strictly a wiring problem (usually where the wires enter the float) and pretty easy to fix, but as stated above, it's not the best place for a jury rigged item.

 

[IH82BL8]

At one point I got the switch to work, but with obviously reduced current to the pump.

I have a feeling the float switch isn't the problem. The switch is either on or off--it doesn't send some of the available current to the pump.

I suggest that you disconnect the leads to the switch and test the switch for continuity. If, after multiple test cycles, you're satisfied that the switch is working, move on to testing voltage/current at the leads powering the switch.

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

I have a feeling the float switch isn't the problem. The switch is either on or off--it doesn't send some of the available current to the pump.

I suggest that you disconnect the leads to the switch and test the switch for continuity. If, after multiple test cycles, you're satisfied that the switch is working, move on to testing voltage/current at the leads powering the switch.

Good catch. I missed that part of the post.

 

[Skipper]

I have a feeling the float switch isn't the problem. The switch is either on or off--it doesn't send some of the available current to the pump.

I suggest that you disconnect the leads to the switch and test the switch for continuity. If, after multiple test cycles, you're satisfied that the switch is working, move on to testing voltage/current at the leads powering the switch.

I did the testing. It's the switch. I even jumped the switch at the block terminals to which it was connected, and the pump fired right up full power.

Thanks to all for responding. BTW I forgot to mention it is a Rule model 35A (pic). No mercury. The switch makes a clicking noise when engaging; I don't think it's the glass-tube type. The 2 wires enter through the back-top of the device, sealed with a grommet-type rubber surround. No other visible wiring.

Also, I do have the manual\auto\off switch on the panel. I think most boats do. But need the auto - for unattended boat, when under way for intrusion monitoring(failed packing, etc) I wouldn't want to wait till the water is sloshing across the cabin sole to know there is water coming in. I can hear the pump kick on, and the subsequent water pouring out the stern, to let me know there's a problem if it's happening too much.

I'm going to break it open this weekend. I'll post what I find....not that anyone is waiting with anticipation

I looked at the electronic switches IE: Witch etc. Love the concept, but seems to be a lot of bad review press. Can't be any worse than the switch I have, though. But, am even more interested in the enclosed float switch someone posted. Pricey, but it may be the ticket to reliability.

 

[Skipper]

I have a feeling the float switch isn't the problem. The switch is either on or off--it doesn't send some of the available current to the pump.

I suggest that you disconnect the leads to the switch and test the switch for continuity. If, after multiple test cycles, you're satisfied that the switch is working, move on to testing voltage/current at the leads powering the switch.

I did the testing. It's the switch. I even jumped the switch at the block terminals to which it was connected, and the pump fired right up full power.

I'm just reading your notes again. Makes sense, but the exterior leads are still in new condition, as are the terminals. I suspect the leads internally, or the switch mechanism. As for current\voltage drop, it would happen with a compromised path, IE: corrosion. Will know for sure soon.

 

[jibes138]

Rule used to make two switches. One cheap one that didn't work and a "SuperSwitch" that did work. The cheap one wasn't heavy enough to shut off leaving the pump on to drain your batteries down to nothing. I also had/have a Rule pump with a built in switch and that wouldn't shut off either. Nothing but junk in my opinion. I'd personally go with another brand.

 

[Pat]

After experiencing 3 or 4 non-floating float switches we switched to 'water witch' maybe 15 years ago...we are now on our 2nd water witch. Have not had issues with the water witch type. The enclosed switch might be much less prone to debris intrusion. We found a boat sinking across from us last Sunday morning.....A thru-hull had failed on a Catalina 30 and the water was approx. 2 ft. deep in the boat...I'm of the opinion that no bilge pump would keep a boat from sinking in this situation but I am not that up on pump technology...our pump is below water as is the outflow point so we have a
back flow device. The pump is a rule w/belt...I'm not sure why it exits the boat below the water line....so far we have not sunk. Pat

 

[Maine Sail]

Guys,

For your own wallet & sanity please:

STOP BUYING RULE FLOAT SWITCHES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cussing:

These are perhaps the #1 most unreliable pieces of crap ever produced for the marine market. 20 years ago they were decent because Mercury rarely failed to work. Today these are mechanical switches and they are pure unadulterated CRAP with reliability often measured in days, not even weeks.

If you want a relaible switch the only one I have found worth its weight (*that is still produced) are the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. Yep they cost more, but how much is your boat or battery bank worth....????

*The best switch is no longer made because it was too expensive, you got what you paid for, and no one wanted to pay for it. I did, and bought a spare. I have never had one fail but too late, they are gone....

In the last two years I have seen at least four or five battery banks destroyed by faulty Rule switches, most switches only weeks or months old, and one boat partially sunk and nearly totaled due to a faulty Rule switch...

Don't say I did not warn you.....

 

[jibes138]

Maine Sail is right on. This thread got me wondering what is a good switch so off to West's website to see the reviews. Looks like all of them stink but the reviews on the Rule switches were pretty much all one star out of five with all kinds of infant mortality. The new "SuperSwitch" had particularly bad reviews. This is one item not to be cheap about. Go with an experts recommendation and pay a few extra bucks.