Espar Install 88 33.5

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Nov 6, 2010
19
Hunter 33.5 Victoria
Hi again everyone,

I have an Espar D5 forced hot air furnace that I am going to install in the new year. I was wondering if, instead of reinventing the wheel, anyone here has done this before.

My plan is to install the unit aft in the lazerette above the diesel tank and then run the vent trunking under the aft cabin bunk and then behind the port settee beneath the sink and into the hanging locker in the v-berth. I plan on having one vent in each of the 3 cabins with the ability to shut the vents to increase airflow to the cabin I'm using.

I'd appreciate any input from someone that has done this or had something similar on their boat. Also it seems to me that the space behind the port settee is just a void space, can I drill into that and use it to run the trunking and for additional storage?

Thanks a lot and Happy New Year.

Mike
 
Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
We did similar on my H376 but I only used a D3 Eberspacher. The installer had to make a considerable number of compromises to get it in and commented that it was fortunate that the D3 only used 3" ducting when more powerful heaters used 4½".
In the end he needed to run the duct through the engine bay and under the sump. This meant partially spoiling the sump's liquid tight integrity to retain serious oil leaks.

I suggest you survey the proposed route in considerable detail before committing to any particular heater. Also make sure you use over specified cabling because the ignitor draws 18 amps for 30 seconds and unless it gets more than 10.5 volts the heater will not fire up.

For info the 3KW heat output is a little on the low side for winter sailing here and I needed to put insulation on the air ducting because the run was so long.
Good luck.
 
Sep 21, 2009
385
Hunter 34 Comox
I am also installing a Espar D4 in my 34 so I will be interested in your project. Good luck, Ian
 
Feb 6, 2009
257
Hunter 40 Camano Island
having redone mine........

a few notes.

Oversize your ductowork wherever possible,

Always leave at least one vent that cannot be closed, this prevents the heater from shutting down too frequently on overtemp when the crew absentmindedly close or block vents.

Check all electrical connections and heater operation before you put it in the boat.

use woven glass insulation for the first 4 to 6 feet of delivery duct.
as well as all of the exhaust duct. unless you are tying in a water heater connection,

mount the ducts on wood strips, use hose clamps, not ty-wraps also use rigid ductwork where possible to decrease flow losses.

make or Leave at least 2" of access and clearance space around all brackets holding the heater off the hull/deck, and you will prefer a painted aluminum bracket for this purpose.

mount the electric fuel pump ridgidly to a bracket extending from frame or deck, they seem to last longer that way and are still easy to service.

Heat shrink all wiring connections, including the wires into the big plug if you can.
 
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