I have a Catalina 30 with a 1985 M18 Universal engine that started giving me trouble at the end of last season. I replaced the starter motor, put in new grounds, replaced the enjectors and then replaced the entire wiring harness in order to get ready for a hopefully trouble free season. The boat went into the water this week and changed all of the fluids, bled the fuel lines and charged the batteries. The engine cranked well but it would not start. I cracked the fuel lines at the enjectors and found that one was not getting any flow of diesel. I then removed the delivery value holder and ran the pump and fuel shot up from both sides. I replaced the holders and tightened them up. Wouldn't start and found no fuel to the enjectors when I cracked the lines again. I lossened the holders a bit and then started the process all over again. This time fuel flowed from the top of the line when I cracked it. When I put everything back together, I tried, once again, to start it to no avail. I took the lines off and removed the enjectors to find one was wet at the bottom but the other was dry. Apparently no fuel was coming into the chamber. My question is this: Do the delivery valve holders control the pressure from the enjector pump and if they do, should I loosen them a bit more to increase the flow? If not, how can I tell if the new injector is working properly?
engine won't start
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Its usually recommended to replace one item at a time & test the engine to see the consequences of changes made. You have made so many changed engine parts that it may be difficult to determine what is causing the problem. This may sound basic, but have you taken apart the fuel lines running from the injector pump to the injectors & checked for any obstructions? Also I have been told that there is a fuel filter fine mesh screen which is located inside the fuel pump at the intake side which could cause a partial clog to occur. After reassembly are you bleeding the screw on the fuel pump first, then working your way towards the injectors? Any air pockets will prevent fuel from flowing. When you replaced the injectors, this is what caused the air to enter the system. I believe that only the injector pump itself controls the flow & fuel pressure rate the injectors. It can be tough to bleed the system thoroughly. I had a tough time bleeding a Yanmar diesel a few years back. It took several days to get the damn thing running again. Good luck & tell us what the culprit was.
Thank you for your comments and advise. I did bleed the system and there seems to plenty of fuel being ejected from the injector pump when the delivery valve holders were removed. A tech from the company and sold me the injectors told me that it takes a great deal of pressure to get the injectors to work properly and this may be the problem. No one, however, has been able to answer the question regarding tightening of the delivery valve holders. I am wondering is spacers must be placed between the holders and the pump. I will try again Sunday and let you know if additional bleeding is successful.
NBO. You must make sure you have full fuel flow through the filter system, through the injector pump and up to and through the injectors. All the injectors must have fuel spray through them. You can remove the injectors and place them in seperate containers to insure there is flow. Just a couple of revolutions of the motor are needed for this test. If there is no flow then find out why.
If there is flow then you need to test pump pressure. If it is too low the injectors won't work. If there is flow and pressure then you must test the fuel pump timing.
I think that now there has been enough different things done that you are having difficulty seperating and testing the different functions of your injection system. You should bite the bullet and have a good diesel mechanic (and I mean GOOD)look your system over or find a VERY good manual for that specific engine and work through the system.
Things like pump timing and fuel pressure are usually beyond the skill of the home mechanic and can be damaged quite expensively even with the best of intensions.
Ray
If there is flow then you need to test pump pressure. If it is too low the injectors won't work. If there is flow and pressure then you must test the fuel pump timing.
I think that now there has been enough different things done that you are having difficulty seperating and testing the different functions of your injection system. You should bite the bullet and have a good diesel mechanic (and I mean GOOD)look your system over or find a VERY good manual for that specific engine and work through the system.
Things like pump timing and fuel pressure are usually beyond the skill of the home mechanic and can be damaged quite expensively even with the best of intensions.
Ray
I finally decided to remove the injector pump and sent it to a major marine diesel engine supplier that has a repair center. They are working on it as I write this and I believe that this pump was ng. I inquired about timing problems and the only answer that I have come up with is that this issue usually does not arise unless there is major engine work. Apparently the cam driven pump, unless defective, is controlled by shims and that the timing does not change during normal use over time unless the cam wears. If this rebuild does not do the trick I might turn this boat into an art object.
Newbe, You have done the right thing. It sounds like the only thing you have to do now will be to bleed the system and you've practiced that enough to do it in your sleep.
Pumps have parts in them that don't take well with long idle periods. Good luck and please post the results.
Ray
Pumps have parts in them that don't take well with long idle periods. Good luck and please post the results.
Ray
Ray: Thanks for the words of support. I did send it to Hansen Marine and they found a problem. It is being rebuilt and I should get it within a few days. The price was not too expensive. While I have the intake manifold off I want to replace the glow plugs just to be safe. Does Kubota have a set that will fit the M18? I called a Kubota dealer and the Z600 is replaced by a 602 but they could not tell me if the plugs are compatible. The cost differential is extreme ($25.00 vs. $160 for the two).
NBO,
I've read the posts in this thread and the guys gave good advice.
One thing I didn't see on here, was any info on the primary/secondary fuel filters and/or the fuel tank/pick-up tube screen.
Your pump may very well be the culprit, and your working that.
However, most starting problems are #1 fuel, & #2 electrical.
The pick up tube screen in the fuel tank may be clogged with a grey sludge.
My primary fuel filter is 10microns, the secondary is 2 micron.
While your pump is being serviced, it may behove you to unscrew the dip tube flange and check the screen. Better yet, remove the damn screen.
While it is out, find a stick you can insert into the tank. Run it to the bottom and wiggle it back & forth. When pulling this out, you will see if any sludge is on the stick. If the screen was clogged, and the tank bottom sludged up, this may be the culprit.
All of the above can mimic you the flow problems that you are experiencing thus far.
Let us know what you find pal............
CR
I've read the posts in this thread and the guys gave good advice.
One thing I didn't see on here, was any info on the primary/secondary fuel filters and/or the fuel tank/pick-up tube screen.
Your pump may very well be the culprit, and your working that.
However, most starting problems are #1 fuel, & #2 electrical.
The pick up tube screen in the fuel tank may be clogged with a grey sludge.
My primary fuel filter is 10microns, the secondary is 2 micron.
While your pump is being serviced, it may behove you to unscrew the dip tube flange and check the screen. Better yet, remove the damn screen.
While it is out, find a stick you can insert into the tank. Run it to the bottom and wiggle it back & forth. When pulling this out, you will see if any sludge is on the stick. If the screen was clogged, and the tank bottom sludged up, this may be the culprit.
All of the above can mimic you the flow problems that you are experiencing thus far.
Let us know what you find pal............
CR
Thanks for all the good advice. I just installed the repaired pump, changed some of the fuel lines and, low and behold, it started up and ran well. I was not able to take it out for a ride but the motor started up right away after running for awhile. The culprit was the injector pump. I sent it to Hanson Marine in MA and they found that the pump was neither priming nor sealing. It took awhile for the repair but they were very fair on the cost. I also fully charged the batteries and when I bled the system, the fuel came pouring out. I guess that a drained battery was not allowing the pump to function normally. All I can say is that this was some education. I must have spent a unit on parts like the starter motor, wire harness, etc. My mentor for boating tells me that cost is simply tuition.
It was $250.00 plus shipping was well well worth it. The engine runs very smoothly. I was going to get a new pump from Kubota but was advised that the best way to go is with repair of the original equipment (refitting, etc.) Kubota's pump is less than 1/2 of the price from Westerbeke.
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