Hi...Lately my engine has taken 2,3 presses of the starting button to turn over...I have changed the push-to-start button and mentioned to my surveyor about replacing the solenoid this weekend. He said the solenoid was part of the whole starter motor which would entail removing the starter...does this sound reasonable? It always starts eventually, but I'm willing to buy a new solenoid from West Marine and try changing it myself. What do ya'll think? Thanks in advance Bill C
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Engine Starting
I have an '86 Hunter 28.5 with the Yanmar 2GM20F engine. It, too, seems to have the same aperiodic staring problem that you describe. A few other people in the Yahoo Group for the H28.5 also stated they have this same problem. One said he traced it to some sort of poor electrical connection, but was not very specific. You stated that you changed the starter button? I presume that didn't help much? Here is something to try: Give the engine a few revolutions by hand before trying to start it. In my case, I put a large socket on the alternator nut and crank it a few revs counterclockwise. Everytime I've done this, the engine always starts on the first try. I assume I'm moving the starter/solenoid off what may be a dead spot or something similar. Whatever works, works. Keep us posted on whatever progress you make in solving this annoying problem.
I have an '86 Hunter 28.5 with the Yanmar 2GM20F engine. It, too, seems to have the same aperiodic staring problem that you describe. A few other people in the Yahoo Group for the H28.5 also stated they have this same problem. One said he traced it to some sort of poor electrical connection, but was not very specific. You stated that you changed the starter button? I presume that didn't help much? Here is something to try: Give the engine a few revolutions by hand before trying to start it. In my case, I put a large socket on the alternator nut and crank it a few revs counterclockwise. Everytime I've done this, the engine always starts on the first try. I assume I'm moving the starter/solenoid off what may be a dead spot or something similar. Whatever works, works. Keep us posted on whatever progress you make in solving this annoying problem.
Low current in the starter circuit
This is a common problem do to the long wiring in the starter curcuit. By the time the current gets to the solenoid from the starter button there is not enough current left to enact the solenoid. This is what I did two years ago. This is about a $5 fix and I would do it first before spending any more money on the problem. Buy a DC relay from Radio Shack, the one that I have installed is a small plastic box about 1"x1". It has high side and low side current connectors. To install you disconnect from the solenoid's small middle terminal the wire from the starter switch. This starter switch wire is then connected to the low current side of the relay box. A second low current side wire is sent to ground making a circuit - when the starter button is pushed. Then add a new wire from the solenoid's terminal (the one wired to the battery). Connect this new wire to the high current side of the relay. The other high current side of the relay is then connected to the small middle terminal on the solenoid. When the starter button is pushed the relay triggers the high current to flow to the solenoid, which in turn sends current to the engine's starter. I have used this relay for over two years and it works every time. Aso, regarding the starter wire fuse. My housing broke over time. If you need to, replace it with a simple inline housed fuse of the same rating.
This is a common problem do to the long wiring in the starter curcuit. By the time the current gets to the solenoid from the starter button there is not enough current left to enact the solenoid. This is what I did two years ago. This is about a $5 fix and I would do it first before spending any more money on the problem. Buy a DC relay from Radio Shack, the one that I have installed is a small plastic box about 1"x1". It has high side and low side current connectors. To install you disconnect from the solenoid's small middle terminal the wire from the starter switch. This starter switch wire is then connected to the low current side of the relay box. A second low current side wire is sent to ground making a circuit - when the starter button is pushed. Then add a new wire from the solenoid's terminal (the one wired to the battery). Connect this new wire to the high current side of the relay. The other high current side of the relay is then connected to the small middle terminal on the solenoid. When the starter button is pushed the relay triggers the high current to flow to the solenoid, which in turn sends current to the engine's starter. I have used this relay for over two years and it works every time. Aso, regarding the starter wire fuse. My housing broke over time. If you need to, replace it with a simple inline housed fuse of the same rating.
WHY NOW
I've started to notice that too. But up until now the engine always cranked well and started first try. Why now all of a sudden does it take a couple of tries. Could it be the battery is getting tired. When I switch to the all position it cranks right over. Fredd M
I've started to notice that too. But up until now the engine always cranked well and started first try. Why now all of a sudden does it take a couple of tries. Could it be the battery is getting tired. When I switch to the all position it cranks right over. Fredd M
old wires
I think the reason the problem shows up later is that as corrosion eats the wires they conduct less current. That maybe is why adding a second battery - more current - works. This loss of current is why a relay works so well. It doesn't need much current to trigger the solenoid
I think the reason the problem shows up later is that as corrosion eats the wires they conduct less current. That maybe is why adding a second battery - more current - works. This loss of current is why a relay works so well. It doesn't need much current to trigger the solenoid
New wires
All wires and connections have to be clean... but... the original 20 years old, gauge 4, straight copper, large strand wires may have been the problem. I replaced them with gauge 2, tinned, fine strands. It cranks twice as fast!!!
All wires and connections have to be clean... but... the original 20 years old, gauge 4, straight copper, large strand wires may have been the problem. I replaced them with gauge 2, tinned, fine strands. It cranks twice as fast!!!
Problem fixed!
Thanks for all the advice...my problem turned out to be a bad ground to the engine...I had noticed a screw on the engine had backed out some...it held a ground wire from the start button harness (I just sanded and tightened) now it starts every time) I probably didn't even have to replace the starting button!
Thanks for all the advice...my problem turned out to be a bad ground to the engine...I had noticed a screw on the engine had backed out some...it held a ground wire from the start button harness (I just sanded and tightened) now it starts every time) I probably didn't even have to replace the starting button!
don't buy it
I have the same problem with my 1987 h40 #217. A couple of seasons ago I bought a new solenoid. No improvement and my Yanmar dealer will not return electrical parts. I spent big bucks for nothing but a spare solenoid. I then tinned the ends of the wires at the connectors and replaced the connectors. That helped for a while. When my battery voltage drops below about 12.8V nothing happens when we turn the key at the starter switch. Our interim fix is to tap the solenoid (tap the aft end in a fwd direction) while holding the key on. Then it kicks right over. As others have said, the right fix is heavier tinned wires.
I have the same problem with my 1987 h40 #217. A couple of seasons ago I bought a new solenoid. No improvement and my Yanmar dealer will not return electrical parts. I spent big bucks for nothing but a spare solenoid. I then tinned the ends of the wires at the connectors and replaced the connectors. That helped for a while. When my battery voltage drops below about 12.8V nothing happens when we turn the key at the starter switch. Our interim fix is to tap the solenoid (tap the aft end in a fwd direction) while holding the key on. Then it kicks right over. As others have said, the right fix is heavier tinned wires.
It's in the wiring
I had the same problem and talked to Yanmar who sell a booster. (Not cheap) I'm guessing similar to the afore mentioned item from radio shack. Talking with the mechanic he said it's the wires so replace the "hot wires" and your good to go for another 20 years. I just cut a few inches off from both ends and rewired, works good. But next time I know where to start, when starting is an issue.
I had the same problem and talked to Yanmar who sell a booster. (Not cheap) I'm guessing similar to the afore mentioned item from radio shack. Talking with the mechanic he said it's the wires so replace the "hot wires" and your good to go for another 20 years. I just cut a few inches off from both ends and rewired, works good. But next time I know where to start, when starting is an issue.
Additional Relay
I had a similar problem. Solved several years ago (none since) after Yanmar mechanic added an additional relay near the engine so all the starter solinoid load did not go through the starter switch at the helm. The starter switch activates the relay which then sends the current on to the starter solinoid. Hope I have described the problem and solution correctly.
I had a similar problem. Solved several years ago (none since) after Yanmar mechanic added an additional relay near the engine so all the starter solinoid load did not go through the starter switch at the helm. The starter switch activates the relay which then sends the current on to the starter solinoid. Hope I have described the problem and solution correctly.
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