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VERY Useful Edson Web Site
Edson has this FAQ (and several more) answered on their web site! Their site is very useful and I'd recommend people with Edson helms look it over. This is what the internet is all about! How To Change Engine Control Cables On Your Edson Pedestal 1. BUY YOUR REPLACEMENT CABLE: Determine type and length of engine control cable using measurements or markings from the original cable. Knowing the outside diameter of the original cable jacket will help determine the cable type and thread size. The length tip to tip of the cable core will give you the proper length. 2. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL This will give you more room to work. 3. REMOVE COMPASS Before removing the compass bolts, run a piece of electrical tape vertically from the compass across the engine control housing, top plate, and onto the pedestal. Slit the tape at each joint. This will help you realign the compass with the other parts when you reassemble this upper part of the pedestal. Remove the four round head 1/4-20 x 3-1/2 machine screws that serve as compass bolts. 5. REMOVE THE BRASS CLEVIS PINS FROM THE CONTROL LEVERS IN THE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING The clevises are screwed to the end of the engine control cables. Note which holes in the control levers the clevis pins came from. This helps when reassembling this unit. 5. REMOVE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING 6. REMOVE THE CABLE HOLDER NUT OR ROUND HEAD MACHINE SCREW located on the aft side of the pedestal tube approximately 7" below the wheel shaft. This will release the Cable Holder (A-969 or A-705) that holds the two engine control cables. These cables remain attached to the cable holder inside the pedestal tube. 7. BRING BOTH CONTROL CABLES TO THE SAME SIDE OF WHEEL SHAFT. From the top of the pedestal, push down both of the engine control cables just far enough so you can bring the throttle control cable (right hand side) under the wheel shaft and over to the left aft side of the pedestal along with the clutch cable. 8. PULL BOTH CONTROL CABLES UP. With both control cables now on the same side of the steering wheel shaft, pull the cables up until you can reach the cable holder. 8.1. Due to the limited amount of space in the pedestal tube the cable holder sometimes gets jammed up with the steering chain and cables. One solution to this problem is to turn the steering wheel shaft all the way to port, thus putting most of the steering chain over on the left side with the two engine control cables and cable holder. Then, while pulling up on the engine control cables, turn the steering wheel shaft back to starboard. The upward movement of the chain can help bring the cable holder and control cables up to a level where they can be reached. 8.2. Working space can be gained in the upper section of the pedestal by moving the chain forward of the chain sprocket. To do this, first tighten the brake, then ease the tension of the chain and steering cables by backing off the nuts on the takeup eyes located on your radial drive wheel or quadrant which is attached to the rudderpost. With slack in the steering cables, lift the steering chain and move it forward of the hub sprocket located on the steering wheel shaft. 9. REMOVE THE BROKEN ENGINE CONTROL CABLE Now that you can reach the cable holder, remove the broken engine control cable. When removing the bad engine control cable, make sure you attach a "messenger" line, or the new replacement cable, to the end of the original cable. You will use the "messenger" line to run the new replacement cable through the same route as the original engine control cable. 10. RUN THE NEW ENGINE CONTROL CABLE Using the "messenger" line, pull the new engine control cable into place. 11. REASSEMBLE BY REVERSING THE ABOVE PROCEDURES. Attach the new control cable to the cable holder. Push both control cables down into the pedestal far enough so you can bring the throttle control cable under the steering wheel shaft and over to the right hand side. Pull up and push aft on the engine control cables. Line up the cable holder with its screw hole on the aft side of the pedestal. A long rod or screw drive will help. The A-969 Cable Holder has a threaded (1/4-20) stud that sticks out through the hole. Use "Loctite" on thread. The A-705 Cable Holder is held in place with a round head (1/4-20 thread) screw that comes from the outside of the pedestal tube and screws into the cable holder. Use "Loctite" on threads. Attach control cables to fittings on engine end. Put engine control housing in place. Attach clevises to engine control levers. Before mounting compass use the four 3-1/2" (Fig 817 Sz. 3.5) compass mounting bolts to hold the engine control housing in place. Test and adjust the engine controls at this time. Remove the four compass mounting bolts. Mount the compass using, the original tape alignment marks, and screw compass mounting bolts back in place using an anti-seize compound on the threads. see link: http://www.edsonmarine.com/FAQ/eb92316.html
Edson has this FAQ (and several more) answered on their web site! Their site is very useful and I'd recommend people with Edson helms look it over. This is what the internet is all about! How To Change Engine Control Cables On Your Edson Pedestal 1. BUY YOUR REPLACEMENT CABLE: Determine type and length of engine control cable using measurements or markings from the original cable. Knowing the outside diameter of the original cable jacket will help determine the cable type and thread size. The length tip to tip of the cable core will give you the proper length. 2. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL This will give you more room to work. 3. REMOVE COMPASS Before removing the compass bolts, run a piece of electrical tape vertically from the compass across the engine control housing, top plate, and onto the pedestal. Slit the tape at each joint. This will help you realign the compass with the other parts when you reassemble this upper part of the pedestal. Remove the four round head 1/4-20 x 3-1/2 machine screws that serve as compass bolts. 5. REMOVE THE BRASS CLEVIS PINS FROM THE CONTROL LEVERS IN THE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING The clevises are screwed to the end of the engine control cables. Note which holes in the control levers the clevis pins came from. This helps when reassembling this unit. 5. REMOVE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING 6. REMOVE THE CABLE HOLDER NUT OR ROUND HEAD MACHINE SCREW located on the aft side of the pedestal tube approximately 7" below the wheel shaft. This will release the Cable Holder (A-969 or A-705) that holds the two engine control cables. These cables remain attached to the cable holder inside the pedestal tube. 7. BRING BOTH CONTROL CABLES TO THE SAME SIDE OF WHEEL SHAFT. From the top of the pedestal, push down both of the engine control cables just far enough so you can bring the throttle control cable (right hand side) under the wheel shaft and over to the left aft side of the pedestal along with the clutch cable. 8. PULL BOTH CONTROL CABLES UP. With both control cables now on the same side of the steering wheel shaft, pull the cables up until you can reach the cable holder. 8.1. Due to the limited amount of space in the pedestal tube the cable holder sometimes gets jammed up with the steering chain and cables. One solution to this problem is to turn the steering wheel shaft all the way to port, thus putting most of the steering chain over on the left side with the two engine control cables and cable holder. Then, while pulling up on the engine control cables, turn the steering wheel shaft back to starboard. The upward movement of the chain can help bring the cable holder and control cables up to a level where they can be reached. 8.2. Working space can be gained in the upper section of the pedestal by moving the chain forward of the chain sprocket. To do this, first tighten the brake, then ease the tension of the chain and steering cables by backing off the nuts on the takeup eyes located on your radial drive wheel or quadrant which is attached to the rudderpost. With slack in the steering cables, lift the steering chain and move it forward of the hub sprocket located on the steering wheel shaft. 9. REMOVE THE BROKEN ENGINE CONTROL CABLE Now that you can reach the cable holder, remove the broken engine control cable. When removing the bad engine control cable, make sure you attach a "messenger" line, or the new replacement cable, to the end of the original cable. You will use the "messenger" line to run the new replacement cable through the same route as the original engine control cable. 10. RUN THE NEW ENGINE CONTROL CABLE Using the "messenger" line, pull the new engine control cable into place. 11. REASSEMBLE BY REVERSING THE ABOVE PROCEDURES. Attach the new control cable to the cable holder. Push both control cables down into the pedestal far enough so you can bring the throttle control cable under the steering wheel shaft and over to the right hand side. Pull up and push aft on the engine control cables. Line up the cable holder with its screw hole on the aft side of the pedestal. A long rod or screw drive will help. The A-969 Cable Holder has a threaded (1/4-20) stud that sticks out through the hole. Use "Loctite" on thread. The A-705 Cable Holder is held in place with a round head (1/4-20 thread) screw that comes from the outside of the pedestal tube and screws into the cable holder. Use "Loctite" on threads. Attach control cables to fittings on engine end. Put engine control housing in place. Attach clevises to engine control levers. Before mounting compass use the four 3-1/2" (Fig 817 Sz. 3.5) compass mounting bolts to hold the engine control housing in place. Test and adjust the engine controls at this time. Remove the four compass mounting bolts. Mount the compass using, the original tape alignment marks, and screw compass mounting bolts back in place using an anti-seize compound on the threads. see link: http://www.edsonmarine.com/FAQ/eb92316.html
Thanks Bill!
It really didn't take long to pop out a reply to the question. I've got nearly everything scanned and digitized into a "new" Owners Manual. The original that came with the Hunter 35 is 5" x 7" and a tad over 1/4" thick (when the dividers are removed) and covers a range of models produced in the '88 time frame. Starting with the original manual, scanning it in, and then adding everything that I could get catalogs, manuals, etc. on, I've boosted the coverage on 8" x 11" paper to over 300 pages, which when printed hard-copy, double-sided, fits nicely in a 2" ring binder. Burning the file onto a CD allows me to take it anywhere with my iBook. The index is hot-linked to each topic and because the file is digital the "Find" feature can be used. In the case of this post, since I had the file open at the time, it took me less than 10 seconds to find the answer to the Edson question and another 20 seconds or so to copy and past in a "Write a Response". My digital manual has all the links built-in. What's the part number for the Aqua-Signal screw that hold the lens on? 10 seconds! and I'm there. Try and do that with paper - actually with the hard-copy binder it doesn't take too much longer. When the weather here has been rain, rain, rain it's a good inside job to stay busy with!
It really didn't take long to pop out a reply to the question. I've got nearly everything scanned and digitized into a "new" Owners Manual. The original that came with the Hunter 35 is 5" x 7" and a tad over 1/4" thick (when the dividers are removed) and covers a range of models produced in the '88 time frame. Starting with the original manual, scanning it in, and then adding everything that I could get catalogs, manuals, etc. on, I've boosted the coverage on 8" x 11" paper to over 300 pages, which when printed hard-copy, double-sided, fits nicely in a 2" ring binder. Burning the file onto a CD allows me to take it anywhere with my iBook. The index is hot-linked to each topic and because the file is digital the "Find" feature can be used. In the case of this post, since I had the file open at the time, it took me less than 10 seconds to find the answer to the Edson question and another 20 seconds or so to copy and past in a "Write a Response". My digital manual has all the links built-in. What's the part number for the Aqua-Signal screw that hold the lens on? 10 seconds! and I'm there. Try and do that with paper - actually with the hard-copy binder it doesn't take too much longer. When the weather here has been rain, rain, rain it's a good inside job to stay busy with!
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