Over the weekend I replaced the two fuel filters (thanks to Steve Dion and others for bleeding information). I did this in the hope that the lack of fuel was the cause of a problem that we have had with the engine. The problem is that just recently I had cause to run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 mins. At that time the engine just lost power and dropped back to 2000. I then closed the throttle down to idle and then open it up again and it goes back to 3000 no problem. It did this several times. However, after a 15 min session of stopping and starting, the problem disappeared and I motored home for another 45 mins. Since I have now replaced both fuel filters has anybody got any ideas?
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R
Rich
J
Jim McCue
check air filter
We had a posting on this tpoic about 2 months ago. It appears that people forget to clean out their air filter which gets dirty and chokes the engine when more power is needed. Check the past postings archives -it'll tell you where it is and how to clean it. Jim McCue
We had a posting on this tpoic about 2 months ago. It appears that people forget to clean out their air filter which gets dirty and chokes the engine when more power is needed. Check the past postings archives -it'll tell you where it is and how to clean it. Jim McCue
The tank filter?
Andrew: Did we have you check the tank filter? There is a screen on the end of the fuel pick-up tube. Did we tell you to remove the tube and check it out?
Andrew: Did we have you check the tank filter? There is a screen on the end of the fuel pick-up tube. Did we tell you to remove the tube and check it out?
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Ed Schenck
Bad sign, Steve is right.
Had very similar symptoms recently. Only mine quit two hours from shore, expensive tow! Mechanic used a pump to clear fuel lines, from Racor back into tank. Filters(including air) had all been replaced by me during winterizing(springizing?) Only explanation? Very old, bad fuel, had clogged tank pickup screen causing an airlock. Next project? A 6 or 8-inch cleanout port right over the tank pickup. And remove the screen, Racor will take care of everything.
Had very similar symptoms recently. Only mine quit two hours from shore, expensive tow! Mechanic used a pump to clear fuel lines, from Racor back into tank. Filters(including air) had all been replaced by me during winterizing(springizing?) Only explanation? Very old, bad fuel, had clogged tank pickup screen causing an airlock. Next project? A 6 or 8-inch cleanout port right over the tank pickup. And remove the screen, Racor will take care of everything.
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Doug
Not to insult you but
sometimes the obvious is easily overlooked because we are looking for a more complicated cause to a problem. With that being said, there are alot of people (including us) that have had problems with throttle staying put. ie: to strong of return spring vs. the tension on the bolt that screws down to the throttle arm pin. Just a thought. Doug
sometimes the obvious is easily overlooked because we are looking for a more complicated cause to a problem. With that being said, there are alot of people (including us) that have had problems with throttle staying put. ie: to strong of return spring vs. the tension on the bolt that screws down to the throttle arm pin. Just a thought. Doug
K
Kenny Logsdon
BLeed baby bleeeed
Guys, I have read all the post on this thread but no know has mentioned bleeding. Loss of RPM at high throttle then a regain of power when you drop the throttle seems to me to be air in the fuel. Changing out componets on the fuel system likly allowed air to enter the fuel system. Just last week I was aboard a Saber 34 with a Volvo and we ran fine for about 30 minutes then we lost power and RPMs dropped to 1000. When we throttled down and back up again we were okay for about 1 mintue then we were at 1000 RPMs again. So I bled the system right there and all was fine after that. If you can get the engine to run (and it seems it will) open it up to about half throttle then use a wrench to crack open the nut at the injector. I beleive you will see tiny air bubbles escaping. Do this until the engine tries to die then tighten. RPMs should regain and then do it again. Keep doing this until the fuel comes out in a steady fine stream then do the other injector. I think this solve your problem.
Guys, I have read all the post on this thread but no know has mentioned bleeding. Loss of RPM at high throttle then a regain of power when you drop the throttle seems to me to be air in the fuel. Changing out componets on the fuel system likly allowed air to enter the fuel system. Just last week I was aboard a Saber 34 with a Volvo and we ran fine for about 30 minutes then we lost power and RPMs dropped to 1000. When we throttled down and back up again we were okay for about 1 mintue then we were at 1000 RPMs again. So I bled the system right there and all was fine after that. If you can get the engine to run (and it seems it will) open it up to about half throttle then use a wrench to crack open the nut at the injector. I beleive you will see tiny air bubbles escaping. Do this until the engine tries to die then tighten. RPMs should regain and then do it again. Keep doing this until the fuel comes out in a steady fine stream then do the other injector. I think this solve your problem.
C
Chris B
One more thing
to look for. We had the same problem. Turned out to be a slight air leak where the fuel line connects to the fuel pump. Make sure all connections are tight. You might have loosened something up when you changed filters...I did.
to look for. We had the same problem. Turned out to be a slight air leak where the fuel line connects to the fuel pump. Make sure all connections are tight. You might have loosened something up when you changed filters...I did.
P
Patrick Ewing
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