Engine help

[rblevens]

Hi folks, I was able to get in the boat today and start really looking around. The junk is cleared out and I have cleaned- er my wife and I cleaned- er she cleaned things up in the week or so we have had Drifter. We removed just about everything from inside.

The boat is a 37C and it is a 1980. I was told it has a Yanmar 30hp- is this correct? Where does one obtain a comprehensive manual? I couldn't see any engine ID markings.

The first thing I noticed is the cooling water system seems closed. There is a small tank aft of the engine- not quite sure what that is?
I'll stop here for now...

Rick

 

[rblevens]

Pics didn't come across.
It has a small tank/exchanger on the starboard side.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Couldn't find the picture I thought I had. I sold a 3QM30, not a 3QM30F, where 'F' is for fresh water and has a heat exchanger. You know it is a '30' because it will have three injectors. I think the 'F' model had a tank across the front, closest to the companionway. The other distinquishing feature would be two water pumps. An external pump, belt-driven, with a hose from the thru-hull(hopefully through a strainer) and an engine mounted waterpump for internal cooling. My old 2QM20 had an aftermarket heat exchanger, the tube on the side. You can see the two pumps in the frontal picture. External waterpump down right near the oil filter and internal up and left of crank pulley.

 

[rblevens]

Thanks Ed, I almost would say this is exactly it. I will print out these pics and take them to the boat and compare!
What I am after is:
ID everything and locations / change oil in gear and engine / get it running / winterize.

So, there is a tank aft of the engine- small- port side of the gear... what is that for? Not the fuel tank under the berth...?

 

[Ed Schenck]

You mean on the shelf behind the engine? On my boat three things are on that shelf. The muffler on the starboard side, hot water tank next to it, and an access plate behind the water tank. That access gets you under the shelf to the nuts that hold the shaft strut to the boat.

In the first two pictures I had the muffler out.

 

[rblevens]

Hot water tank- that has to be it!

 

[rblevens]

I will have to winterize or drain this hot water tank- ideas?

 

[rardiH36]

A fun time getting to know the guts of a boat!

If the engine is a 3QM30, the Yanmar identification plate is probably on the port side of the engine on the side of the engine block under the starter motor. Mounted in the engine compartment, probably it will be impossible to see. I was able to squeeze a digital camera into the gap between the engine and the port engine compartment side panel. It was only then that I learned the the PO had got it wrong, the engine was not a 2GM20 series, but a 2QM20!

Once you confirm your Yanmar model, a repair manual is a must. You can either order a service manual from Yanmar. Or the Seloc Manual in the below link is very good. Seloc is to marine engines is as Chilton is to auto repair. I've got both the Yanmar and Seloc books. I find the Seloc publication as useful and just about as detailed as my Yanmar Service Manual.

http://www.amazon.com/Yanmar-Inboards-1975-98-Marine-Manuals/dp/0893300497

 

[seadaddler]

Manual

I will look but I think I have a old Yanmar manual for my old 2GM20 if interested
Nick

 

[Ed Schenck]

About that hot water tank. You need to open the drain which is at the back. And you need to disconnect the hoses back there and connect them to each other as a bypass. Then you can either blow the lines out or run pink stuff through them.

But your boat is pre-1983 which is the year our chart says that a "door" was added. When I first came aboard in 1998 I could not understand how other H37C owners had such good access to checking things like tranny oil, engine oil, and getting to the strut bolts. Turns out they had that "door" and I did not. So I added it.

A couple of feet back on the inside of the quarterberth there is a vertical teak trim strip. Remove that strip and the one at the very back. The top of the q-berth bulkhead is simply wedged under the fiberglass. Now take a saber saw and cut the bottom of the bulkhead from that first vertical trim to the back. That is the "door" that all the later models have for access to the engine, hot water tank, muffler, etc. I know a couple of guys who came even farther forward to start, making the door longer. But under that vertical trim it is already cut top to bottom making it a good place to start.

 

[rblevens]

I ordered a seloc last night.
Is the yanmar specific to a model or just a general one like the seloc?

 

[rblevens]

Thank goodness for this forum and good folks who help people out!
I will add a door to my to do list.

Once I gain access- maybe it will become clearer.

 

[rardiH36]

I ordered a seloc last night.
Is the yanmar specific to a model or just a general one like the seloc?

I'd call the Seloc "specific/general". For each chapter, say fuel systems, the Seloc will have information general to all the covered engines. Then also a sub-section for each engine model with pictures. All-in-all, almost as good as an official service manual. It has information for quite extensive tear-downs and rebuilds. Plus it gives very good overview information about how things work and the conventions. The official Yanmar manual assumes that the user is a trained mechanic, so doesn't always provide discussion useful to the DIY'er.

The Seloc manual covers QM's, GM's, HM's 4JU and 4JH2. Unless a PO has change out the original Hunter supplied Yanmar, you are almost certain to have one of these engines.

 

[rblevens]

Not counting water and holding tanks... on the hard... what else is there that will freeze?
Need to remove hoses- I guess- and drain or blow them out.
The engine has antifreeze. Toilet has the red antifreeze- I'll put in more...

Would I need to do this if she was in the water?

 

[Jim Legere]

Re: winterizing

Up here in the great white north (actually, it probably gets colder where you are ) I generally try to drain what I can and then rely on antifreeze for the rest. I take the hoses off the water tanks and the hot water heater. I use an electrical tie-wrap to off seat the check valve on the hot water heater. I open all the taps and let the water drain from the plumbing at the low points. Bottom line is that I hate the taste of plumbers' antifreeze. Most heads have a drain plug on the side at the bottom. Holding tank should be pumped dry. I usually shut off the salt water and pour antifreeze in the seawater strainer and let the engine pump it trough to protect the saltwater pump, manifold, muffler, etc. If you can't do that, drain everything you can, including taking the pump cover off. I don't generally worry about small amounts of water remaining in flexible hoses...yuck - its getting close to that time again, isn't it?

 

[J Hunter]

I've been using the cheapest vodka I can find rather than the pink stuff for a few years now for fresh water system anti freeze. My wife hated the visual and smell residue the pink stuff seemed to leave even after the spring fill and flush ( I could barely detect it). We don't use the fresh water for drinking or cooking, but she complained about it even for dish & hand washing. Using the vodka, the tank and hoses seem perfect after just one fill and drain.

 

[seadaddler]

Dry Vac

You could use a dry vac to blow out the water system disconnecting hoses in some places and let the dry vac blow into hoses to get rid of any water and run anteefreez in the head and engine and drains.
nick

 

[rblevens]

I've been meaning to ask... is 1300 hours a lot of hours on a Yanmar?
Rick

 

[H33CRich]

I've been meaning to ask... is 1300 hours a lot of hours on a Yanmar?
Rick

Not really. You might want to think about a rebuild around 2000, but it all depends on what the exhaust is telling you; sins of the PO.

 

[H33CRich]

I've been using the cheapest vodka I can find rather than the pink stuff for a few years now for fresh water system anti freeze. My wife hated the visual and smell residue the pink stuff seemed to leave even after the spring fill and flush ( I could barely detect it). We don't use the fresh water for drinking or cooking, but she complained about it even for dish & hand washing. Using the vodka, the tank and hoses seem perfect after just one fill and drain.

diddo! It costs a few bucks more, but I love doing it this way. I will use the pink stuf for the raw rater systems and the holding tank and any bilge areas...