Can anyone give me the proper technique for checking and emptying water from the fuel filter on my H-33... It looks like it unscrews from the top.. Also I can't seem to find any sort of raw water strainer for the engine... any help there would be appreciated...
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2GM?
A 2GM would be an upgrade for an H33, would it not? But if you are talking about that small aluminum-like can that the fuel line goes into maybe I can help. On my boat(2QM20) that is the first stop from the tank. Then the line goes from there to the big Racor filter and from there to the small can on the engine, also a filter. That first can, mounted on the starboard bulkhead on my boat, is a water separator and very gross filter maybe. I could not budge anything on that can. I finally removed it and placed it in a very large vise in the marina's shop. Now I am having trouble remembering how I got it apart. But I wrote about it here on HOW a couple of years ago. At any rate there is a round plate that slides up and down a stud inside that can. And there is a machine screw on the bottom I think. That is where you were to drain the water. To make an already too long story shorter I removed the guts completely and reinstalled it. The Racor and the engine filter are more than sufficient for the task. I could have left it off the boat had I been willing to ante up for a new and longer fuel line. Just found the link and added it. Is that what you are asking about? In my case the insides had completely disintegrated.
A 2GM would be an upgrade for an H33, would it not? But if you are talking about that small aluminum-like can that the fuel line goes into maybe I can help. On my boat(2QM20) that is the first stop from the tank. Then the line goes from there to the big Racor filter and from there to the small can on the engine, also a filter. That first can, mounted on the starboard bulkhead on my boat, is a water separator and very gross filter maybe. I could not budge anything on that can. I finally removed it and placed it in a very large vise in the marina's shop. Now I am having trouble remembering how I got it apart. But I wrote about it here on HOW a couple of years ago. At any rate there is a round plate that slides up and down a stud inside that can. And there is a machine screw on the bottom I think. That is where you were to drain the water. To make an already too long story shorter I removed the guts completely and reinstalled it. The Racor and the engine filter are more than sufficient for the task. I could have left it off the boat had I been willing to ante up for a new and longer fuel line. Just found the link and added it. Is that what you are asking about? In my case the insides had completely disintegrated.
Yep Thats it..
Ed are you saying that you couldn't get that apart? and that you can drain the water from the bottom? It appears to be the only filter in my fuel line... I was reluctant to try to open it until I knew exactly what to do to clean it out... Anyone else have experience?
Ed are you saying that you couldn't get that apart? and that you can drain the water from the bottom? It appears to be the only filter in my fuel line... I was reluctant to try to open it until I knew exactly what to do to clean it out... Anyone else have experience?
Need one of these.
Darryl, cannot believe you do not have a better filter. Especially if it is actually a 2GM. See Related Link for what I think you should install. You can leave the old Perko in line or bypass it to the Racor. As I wrote my Perko element had disentegrated and was clogging the line to the Racor. And are you saying you do not find a water strainer in the cooling water inlet line? My thru-hull is at the aft end of the bilge, right in front of the engine. The Perko strainer is mounted just to the left of the front of the engine as you look at it(starboard bulkhead). A hose goes from there to the belt-driven waterpump. See if you can cut/paste this link: http://www.allaboutboating.com/store/products/productDisplay.asp?manufacturer=PERKO&model=INTAKE+WATER+STRAINER
Darryl, cannot believe you do not have a better filter. Especially if it is actually a 2GM. See Related Link for what I think you should install. You can leave the old Perko in line or bypass it to the Racor. As I wrote my Perko element had disentegrated and was clogging the line to the Racor. And are you saying you do not find a water strainer in the cooling water inlet line? My thru-hull is at the aft end of the bilge, right in front of the engine. The Perko strainer is mounted just to the left of the front of the engine as you look at it(starboard bulkhead). A hose goes from there to the belt-driven waterpump. See if you can cut/paste this link: http://www.allaboutboating.com/store/products/productDisplay.asp?manufacturer=PERKO&model=INTAKE+WATER+STRAINER
hey, I have exactly the same filter and engine...
hey Darryl, Mine is the 2GM and it has the same filter, the bronze one first out of the fuel tank, then there is a small filter located on the side of the engine itself. The filter element on the engine is available from any Yanmar dealer, the element in the cast bronze filter, I have not been able to find a replacement element.. but what I did was to clean the old one with lacquer thinner then let it dry completely. then just put it back together.. working just fine so far (1 1/2 yrs.) Are you still here at lake lanier?
hey Darryl, Mine is the 2GM and it has the same filter, the bronze one first out of the fuel tank, then there is a small filter located on the side of the engine itself. The filter element on the engine is available from any Yanmar dealer, the element in the cast bronze filter, I have not been able to find a replacement element.. but what I did was to clean the old one with lacquer thinner then let it dry completely. then just put it back together.. working just fine so far (1 1/2 yrs.) Are you still here at lake lanier?
Throw it away and install a Racor
Life is too short to fool with bad filters when Racors are installed so easily. The first time you have to change it will make it all worth the dollars and time to change to a more easily maintained system.
Life is too short to fool with bad filters when Racors are installed so easily. The first time you have to change it will make it all worth the dollars and time to change to a more easily maintained system.
Daryl
You should have a engine mounted filter in a can about 3" long and 2" in dia. It will be mounted on the upper left when looking at the front of the engine. As for the bronze thing; throw it out and buy a racor. Pat McCartin 1979/80 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
You should have a engine mounted filter in a can about 3" long and 2" in dia. It will be mounted on the upper left when looking at the front of the engine. As for the bronze thing; throw it out and buy a racor. Pat McCartin 1979/80 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
Disagree with Jim Logan
A few years ago,before i became a disciple of Biobor,i had a bad case of fungus growth in the fuel.The Perko,which was first in line caught the gunk and still allowed fuel thru to Racor which is second in line,thense to OEM Yanmar filter.If the element is still intact[which mine is after 23 years]keep in place ,but DO put a Racor in after it and before OEM.
A few years ago,before i became a disciple of Biobor,i had a bad case of fungus growth in the fuel.The Perko,which was first in line caught the gunk and still allowed fuel thru to Racor which is second in line,thense to OEM Yanmar filter.If the element is still intact[which mine is after 23 years]keep in place ,but DO put a Racor in after it and before OEM.
The great Racor debate
I'll throw .02 more. What I've seen is people will generly replace the perko with the 200 series Racor. I think this is being penny wise and pound foolish. If you are going to spend money on a Racor step up and get the 500 series. The element is easily changed without bleeding the system and you get the venturi Racor is famous for. Should you still purchase a 200 series then, yes by allmeans keep the Perko to catch gross contaminates. The Perko should still be disassembled once a decade or so for inspection and posible element replacement. Pat McCartin 1979/80 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
I'll throw .02 more. What I've seen is people will generly replace the perko with the 200 series Racor. I think this is being penny wise and pound foolish. If you are going to spend money on a Racor step up and get the 500 series. The element is easily changed without bleeding the system and you get the venturi Racor is famous for. Should you still purchase a 200 series then, yes by allmeans keep the Perko to catch gross contaminates. The Perko should still be disassembled once a decade or so for inspection and posible element replacement. Pat McCartin 1979/80 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
What I need to know now is..
This is all very helpful and granted I need to add a secondary filter...What I need to know is.. what is the process for cleaning out the present filter.. can I just unscrew the top, lift out the filter and use a brush and solvent to clean it and then rinse it in clean diesel fuel and put it back in place and screw the top back on ... will that get air into the system, is there anything I need to watch out for.. By the way did anyone give me the location and a description of the raw water filter..
This is all very helpful and granted I need to add a secondary filter...What I need to know is.. what is the process for cleaning out the present filter.. can I just unscrew the top, lift out the filter and use a brush and solvent to clean it and then rinse it in clean diesel fuel and put it back in place and screw the top back on ... will that get air into the system, is there anything I need to watch out for.. By the way did anyone give me the location and a description of the raw water filter..
Maybe.
As I originally wrote, I had to put it in a vise to get the top off. Maybe yours is not so tight. And yes, once the top is off you can clean it with kerosene or mineral spirits. You might need something like a turkey baster to "vacuum" stuff off the bottom. You may not have to bleed if you fill it with diesel before replacing the top. A crap shoot. And I did mention the location of the raw water strainer in "Need one of these". Looks like Related Link.
As I originally wrote, I had to put it in a vise to get the top off. Maybe yours is not so tight. And yes, once the top is off you can clean it with kerosene or mineral spirits. You might need something like a turkey baster to "vacuum" stuff off the bottom. You may not have to bleed if you fill it with diesel before replacing the top. A crap shoot. And I did mention the location of the raw water strainer in "Need one of these". Looks like Related Link.
More opinion
I have to agree with Jim Logan, Here on the lake, one Racor 500 with a 10mcn filter element then the factory 2mcn filter on the engine is plenty. The use of an electric pump is a great idea. Electric pumps will facilitate easy bleeding. Keep in mind that the pump MUST be put UPSTREAM from all Racor filters. It's not necessary to install an electric pump, because Yanmar was kind enough to provide a manual bleeding lever on the low pressure pump. It can be difficult to use, but works well. Whatever filter system you choose, PLEASE get your fuel from a station that sells high volumes of diesel ie; truck stops. That way you can be reasonably shure there won't be water/bio's in the fuel. Just my opinion Pat McCartin 1979/80 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
I have to agree with Jim Logan, Here on the lake, one Racor 500 with a 10mcn filter element then the factory 2mcn filter on the engine is plenty. The use of an electric pump is a great idea. Electric pumps will facilitate easy bleeding. Keep in mind that the pump MUST be put UPSTREAM from all Racor filters. It's not necessary to install an electric pump, because Yanmar was kind enough to provide a manual bleeding lever on the low pressure pump. It can be difficult to use, but works well. Whatever filter system you choose, PLEASE get your fuel from a station that sells high volumes of diesel ie; truck stops. That way you can be reasonably shure there won't be water/bio's in the fuel. Just my opinion Pat McCartin 1979/80 H30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
For Sale: Bronze Perko Fuel Filter
Suitable for use as small boat mooring or when polished, as decorative conversation piece, whether in saloon or living room. Not being represented as suitable for use as filtering mechanism for diesel fuel intended as fuel source for diesel engine. A lovely keepsake and possible collectable from bygone era. Please make offer.
Suitable for use as small boat mooring or when polished, as decorative conversation piece, whether in saloon or living room. Not being represented as suitable for use as filtering mechanism for diesel fuel intended as fuel source for diesel engine. A lovely keepsake and possible collectable from bygone era. Please make offer.
One more filter story.
I recently purchased one of those filter/funnels, the WM brand touted in Practical Sailor. Then I used my good oil extractor pump to pull a few gallons of diesel fuel from around the fuel pickup corner of the tank. I thought I would find water and/or gunk when I poured it back in through that funnel. But nothing in the funnel! Then I bought six gallons from the low volume local BP station. Back to the boat and through the funnel. Guess what? Yep, water and dirt. But geez, it was $.30 cheaper per gallon than at the dock.
I recently purchased one of those filter/funnels, the WM brand touted in Practical Sailor. Then I used my good oil extractor pump to pull a few gallons of diesel fuel from around the fuel pickup corner of the tank. I thought I would find water and/or gunk when I poured it back in through that funnel. But nothing in the funnel! Then I bought six gallons from the low volume local BP station. Back to the boat and through the funnel. Guess what? Yep, water and dirt. But geez, it was $.30 cheaper per gallon than at the dock.
hey, it's all good advice...
And if something is not broke, why fix it? This old Perko has served me well for 21 years, not one hiccup! The lacquer thinner was used to soak the Perko element, submerged in a tin coffee can and soaked for a few days. Not very fast service when compared to the screw off filters you throw out, but hey... it has done its job just fine so far. So, maybe tomorrow, I'll go buy my wife an nice mother's day gift.. hum... maybe she would like one of those new filter setups you guys are talking about... just a thought.
And if something is not broke, why fix it? This old Perko has served me well for 21 years, not one hiccup! The lacquer thinner was used to soak the Perko element, submerged in a tin coffee can and soaked for a few days. Not very fast service when compared to the screw off filters you throw out, but hey... it has done its job just fine so far. So, maybe tomorrow, I'll go buy my wife an nice mother's day gift.. hum... maybe she would like one of those new filter setups you guys are talking about... just a thought.
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