Engine cool air blower

[cam]

Hi all this is Cam of Western Australia I gave a 2005 c310. The other day I switched on my blower. The blower did not work and at the same time I lost power to my rev counter fuel gauge, temp gauge etc I noticed what I thought may have been a reset button to the right of the blower switch on the underside of the panel. When I pressed this there was no feeling in it , no click ,it just seemed loose and did nothing. Thank goodness the engine still starts so I will be able to get home. I have opened the panel and all wiring appears to be in good order and condition. I am wondering if I have a faulty circuit breaker. Any thoughts out there

Thank you

 

[peter_ms]

Hi all this is Cam of Western Australia I gave a 2005 c310. The other day I switched on my blower. The blower did not work and at the same time I lost power to my rev counter fuel gauge, temp gauge etc I noticed what I thought may have been a reset button to the right of the blower switch on the underside of the panel. When I pressed this there was no feeling in it , no click ,it just seemed loose and did nothing. Thank goodness the engine still starts so I will be able to get home. I have opened the panel and all wiring appears to be in good order and condition. I am wondering if I have a faulty circuit breaker. Any thoughts out there Thank you

Hi Cam
My boat has been out of the water for winter for 3 months now and I don't run the bilge blower but here goes.
For the Universal M-25 XPB, on the engine on the stove side of the rear mounting plate there is a circuit breaker. This feeds the engine panel, including bilge blower, fuel pump and glow plugs, amongst other things. It will be located below the fuel pump, which looks like a square block with fuel lines top and bottom. The wires to the circuit breaker are on the front side of the plate but the reset button is on the back side. It is red, but may have been painted over. Just push this and it should click and all will be well again unless one of the devices listed above is faulty.
Sorry I can't be more specific because I haven't had to reset this one in about 10 yrs.
I don't run the bilge blower unless I am extensively motoring on a very hot day. It is a device implemented of gasoline powered vessels to exhaust fumes prior to hitting the starter and ignition to prevent an explosion. You can't light diesel with a match without significant effort, never mind a spark so I don't use it. Years ago when I was instructing sailing on many different vessels I ran my blower too so I wouldn't accidentally forget to do so on a gasoline powered vessel.
I may open myself to comment from the purists, but that's the way I operate mine now; just to vent engine heat and it is not that efficient since it isn't ducted from the actual engine space but from the prop shaft/shaft packing space
Good luck and best regards from Canada in the midst of winter.
If you can't find it; drop me a note and I will trek down to the boat look more specifically and take some photos
Peter
For Pete's Sake
2001 Hull #147

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

I don't run the bilge blower unless I am extensively motoring on a very hot day. It is a device implemented of gasoline powered vessels to exhaust fumes prior to hitting the starter and ignition to prevent an explosion. You can't light diesel with a match without significant effort, never mind a spark so I don't use it.

What about propane? If you have a leak in your propane system it could result in fumes in the engine bilge that are ignitable. That's why we still run our blower. Plus we do have gasoline on board for the dink.

Jesse
s/v Smitty

 

[cam]

Hi Cam
My boat has been out of the water for winter for 3 months now and I don't run the bilge blower but here goes.
For the Universal M-25 XPB, on the engine on the stove side of the rear mounting plate there is a circuit breaker. This feeds the engine panel, including bilge blower, fuel pump and glow plugs, amongst other things. It will be located below the fuel pump, which looks like a square block with fuel lines top and bottom. The wires to the circuit breaker are on the front side of the plate but the reset button is on the back side. It is red, but may have been painted over. Just push this and it should click and all will be well again unless one of the devices listed above is faulty.
Sorry I can't be more specific because I haven't had to reset this one in about 10 yrs.
I don't run the bilge blower unless I am extensively motoring on a very hot day. It is a device implemented of gasoline powered vessels to exhaust fumes prior to hitting the starter and ignition to prevent an explosion. You can't light diesel with a match without significant effort, never mind a spark so I don't use it. Years ago when I was instructing sailing on many different vessels I ran my blower too so I wouldn't accidentally forget to do so on a gasoline powered vessel.
I may open myself to comment from the purists, but that's the way I operate mine now; just to vent engine heat and it is not that efficient since it isn't ducted from the actual engine space but from the prop shaft/shaft packing space
Good luck and best regards from Canada in the midst of winter.
If you can't find it; drop me a note and I will trek down to the boat look more specifically and take some photos
Peter
For Pete's Sake
2001 Hull #147

Thanks pete, I am aware of the reset button you have described and I have activated it but this has not fixed the problem. Do you think the engine should be running when that button is pressed?

Kind regards Cam,

 

[peter_ms]

What about propane? If you have a leak in your propane system it could result in fumes in the engine bilge that are ignitable. That's why we still run our blower. Plus we do have gasoline on board for the dink. Jesse s/v Smitty

Good point Jesse. I don't carry gasoline and have the propane shut off at the main tank valve since we probably use it 2-3 times a year. We close off the solenoid, the tank valve and let it burn out; then close the burner valve.

But you do have a valid point for those who carry/use other combustibles on a regular basis.

A caution on another matter while I have the soapbox... At the risk of hijacking the thread, I was going through some old posts and noticed that some ingenious souls have put an access into the port cockpit lazerette.
If you plan to or have done so; please be aware that the access lid in the cockpit is not watertight. During a long distance race; we were knocked flat. This is the fin keel version with what I believe is a heavier C320 keel and we were still knocked down with the masthead touching the water. That lazerette, though secured, took on 6" of water.
I would have lost a bet for a considerable amount of money that it could not a C310; but it did. A rare occurrence certainly; bu please ensure that if you do make that opening; it is waterproof.

Peter

 

[peter_ms]

Thanks pete, I am aware of the reset button you have described and I have activated it but this has not fixed the problem. Do you think the engine should be running when that button is pressed? Kind regards Cam,

Wouldn't matter Cam; it is just a mechanical contact. If you have access to a voltage tester, peel the terminal caps on the front side of the mounting plate back. If you have 12+ volts to ground from both terminals; the breaker is closed properly. While you have the tester; open the engine console in the cockpit and test the incoming voltage. Do you have the owner's manual for the wiring diagram?

Peter

 

[cam]

Wouldn't matter Cam; it is just a mechanical contact. If you have access to a voltage tester, peel the terminal caps on the front side of the mounting plate back. If you have 12+ volts to ground from both terminals; the breaker is closed properly. While you have the tester; open the engine console in the cockpit and test the incoming voltage. Do you have the owner's manual for the wiring diagram?

Peter

Yes Peter I do have the wiring diagram and voltmeter and will try the tests you have suggested when I get home from this trip which should be next week.

Thanks again Peter

Kind regards Cam

 

[c130king]

What about propane? If you have a leak in your propane system it could result in fumes in the engine bilge that are ignitable. That's why we still run our blower. Plus we do have gasoline on board for the dink.

Jesse
s/v Smitty

So do you run the blower every time before you start the motor? Just wondering.

The ducting on my boat has deteriorated and there are several rips/tears/holes in the (what seems to me to be) very cheap ducting material.

Has anyone that has good ducting actually tried to see how efficient this system works?

Cheers,
Jim

 

[peter_ms]

So do you run the blower every time before you start the motor? Just wondering. The ducting on my boat has deteriorated and there are several rips/tears/holes in the (what seems to me to be) very cheap ducting material. Has anyone that has good ducting actually tried to see how efficient this system works? Cheers, Jim

Yes it is just dryer vent hose. I keep my fenders in the aft port lazerette with that hose in the bottom and it does get pretty mangled. I keep meaning to upgrade to something like aluminum vent pipe or 4" PVC but since it Is diesel I have never gotten around to it.
Maybe something like Big-O drainage hose would work.

By the by; I just priced the Oberdorfer N202M-G908... $498 Canadian. I will wait til my modified Sherwood visits Davey Jones...

 

[Albanach]

”I am wondering if I have a faulty circuit breaker. Any thoughts out there”

I think you may have – in the engine panel, looking at the innards of this panel (picture saved from one of Tom J’s excellent contributions). It shows, that all positive instrument cables and that of the blower are leading from the breaker. You could well have a loose or corroded connection there, as you mentioned that all these instruments failed together with the blower. That breaker and the blower switch are sitting on the bottom of the panel, where moisture can collect. I actually had to replace my badly corroded switch.
Whilst having the panel open, I also suggest to check the starter button for any signs of corrosion. Mine had no obvious outward signs, but felt a bit sticky. Ignoring this gave me a nasty surprise and the cost of a new starter motor. The button eventually stuck and fried the starter. Replacing the switch was about $5.

 

[peter_ms]

”I am wondering if I have a faulty circuit breaker. Any thoughts out there” I think you may have – in the engine panel, looking at the innards of this panel (picture saved from one of Tom J’s excellent contributions). It shows, that all positive instrument cables and that of the blower are leading from the breaker. You could well have a loose or corroded connection there, as you mentioned that all these instruments failed together with the blower. That breaker and the blower switch are sitting on the bottom of the panel, where moisture can collect. I actually had to replace my badly corroded switch. Whilst having the panel open, I also suggest to check the starter button for any signs of corrosion. Mine had no obvious outward signs, but felt a bit sticky. Ignoring this gave me a nasty surprise and the cost of a new starter motor. The button eventually stuck and fried the starter. Replacing the switch was about $5.

My engine panel instruments fogged up since the boat was new. Catalina's response; drill 2 holes in the bottom to drain it.
They still get condensation but not like it was.
Fortunately she is a freshwater boat so I don't have corrosion.