Engine compartment leak

E

elder47

.
Oct 11, 2001
6
I have had some leaking in the engine compartment lately. My guess
is that I need to replace the gasket on the cockpit sole. I
remember reading somewhere that the best gasket to use was from
an auto supply store. I can't find the source of that info. Does
anyone remember reading this or have any other suggestions?

Jim
 
H

hielke007

.
Dec 31, 2003
86
I have had some leaking in the engine compartment lately. My guess
is that I need to replace the gasket on the cockpit sole. I
remember reading somewhere that the best gasket to use was from
an auto supply store. I can\'t find the source of that info. Does
anyone remember reading this or have any other suggestions?

Jim

Good morning Jim,
if you go to the Yahoo group on the web @
Yahoo! Groups you can back-read all the messages
posted. If I remember correctly as well somebody (?) mentioned that using a
D-shaped (or even B-shaped) car gasket gave less deformation under
compression.
I\'m not 100% happy with the newly stuck on neoprene rubber gasket as well,
so I will try something next year also.
I have also found that there is quite some "play" in the hatch, it got
rather flexible. So the screws are working themselves loose after a month or
so. Maybe I\'ll strengthen it with some little beams.
Take care,
Hielke
#1033 Drivfjäder (Holland)
 
S

stevebirch2002

.
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi Jim

A closed cell self ahhesive foam is needed. It usually comes in rolls of 10
metres and will also seal the cockpit lids etc at the same time. We have it
is the UK and I source i from a Marine Window Manufacturer. Costs here are
about £10 per roll (UK).

Kind Regards Steve Birch Vega "Southern Comfort" V1703
At 05:28 12/02/02 -0000, you wrote:
 
W

waltrambs

.
Oct 30, 2019
22
Hi Jim, Yes the closed cell self adhesive foam rubber tape was used between
the pick up truck box and the fiberglass or aluminum camper cover shell. It
came on a roll of at least 2 inches wide 1/4 inch thick and about 25 ft long
for about $10. Most likely any automotive store in your area will carry it.
Clean the area where the tape will be placed with some acetone to remove all
dirt and wax. Good luck with your project. Walt S. "Remedy"
 
B

bhofler

.
May 31, 2006
263
- - Vancouver
I have another question Steve. Are there some special fasteners available to
replace the original rubber well nuts for fastening the cockpit sole? I have
been unable to find an appropriate nut / bolt combination that is easy to
install and allows quick access to the engine / exhaust system.

Cheers Brian V1039
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
When I bought Journeyman all but two of the well nuts (into which go the
bolts which secure the engine hatch) were missing or glassed in. I found
some stainless fasteners called "T-nuts" which act as a nut but which are
made to be pounded into wood. They are fashioned out of sheet stainless
steel, with a threaded collar, and with three spikes. The idea is that you
drill a hole large enough to accommodate the threaded collar, then pound the
T-nut in over the hole, thus giving a way to fasten a bolt into the wood. I
believe any large hardware store caries them.

I bought 8 T-nuts and 1/4 inch by 2 inch bolts to fit. I put the hatch in
place over the engine and fastened it using the two bolts that still worked.
I then drilled through the hatch at each old bolt hole and through the deck
beneath. I removed the hatch. At each hole in the deck I just touched a
spade bit to countersink a tiny bit (like 1/16th inch or 2 mm) and to get
clean glass. I then placed a T-nut in each hole more or less flush with the
deck. To accommodate the spikes I drilled 1/8 inch holes where each spike
would go. I fastened the T-nuts with epoxy and then put the hatch in place
and fastened it with the 2 inch round head machine bolts sized to fit the
T-nuts. I think I used wax paper at each nut to make sure I could get the
hatch up! To ensure a good bond I sanded each T-nut where the glue would be.
I gave it overnight to cure.

The job worked out really well. I think one of the nuts isn't in quite the
right spot and is thus unusable but now the hatch is tight. It is gasketed
with the foam material that folks have mentioned. I have put a running water
hose in the cockpit and looked from under and there is no leak, and of
course the fasteners, being 1/4 ss, are very strong. The only disadvantage
is that it takes a little while to remove the 7 or so bolts. When the boat
is in my yard, which is typically the time I am removing the hatch
frequently, I may use a screwdriver bit on my portable drill, which makes
very fast work. Otherwise in my yard I may merely leave the unfastened hatch
in place, with the bolts in a jar. On the mooring I use a ratcheting
screwdriver and it is no big deal. I probably don't remove the hatch more
than 5 or 6 times in a season.

Journeyman 1171.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Top Bottom