Engine access hatch

[Scott]

We recently purchased a 1980 h30 and have had it in the water for about 6 weeks now. Overall we have been pleased with the boat and performance. One area of concern is the amount of water that enters through the engine access hatch on the floor of the cockpit. It is secured with screws directly through the fiberglass and due to repeated removal, the seal is less than adequate. My plan at this point is to install a 1/4 inch thick section of aluminum bar stock around the perimeter and tap the holes for machine screws. Before I do this it would be appreciated if anyone with a similar problem could share your solutions with me.Thanks, Scott

 

[Ed Schenck]

Not original?

I don't think the engine hatch was original so you may not get much response. At any rate I think flexing of the cockpit sole would have to be addressed first. The aluminum bar would obviously help but I would do it differently. I would glass stringers of 1x2 as far in both directions as possible so that they framed the underside of the opening. Now mount the barstock on the bottom of the stringers and drill and tap. Stainless would be better, no corrosion and no thread stripping. A butyl gasket would complete the modification. Much easier to write about then do! Sometimes I wish I had an overhead access on my H37C.

 

[Pat McCartin]

H30 engine hatch

I have a 79/80 that I recently opened the hatch to replace the fuel tank, sub-floor and battery. When I was done I took a liberal amount of Life Caulk around the perimiter of the hole then screwed the hatch in place. It doesn't leak at all. I'll have to cut the caulk the next time I need to open it.I believe the hatch was an option after the #800 +/- hull, when the "T" cockpit came out.Pat McCartin1979/80 H30 "Therapy"Lake Lanier, GA

 

[Dave Simpson]

Engine access

I don't know if your hatch is original or not, but like Ed, I wanted one in the cockpit floor of my 37-C, so I cut one. It is sealed with two rubber gaskets, (one on the hatch and one on the hole).,The important thing to making it waterproof is to taper the edges so the hatch acts like a wedge when it is in place, and you don't have to depend on brute force to keep the water out. I used a rubber garage-door-bottom gasket($10) from Home Depot, and stainless 1/4-20 button-head bolts screwing into T-bolts underneath. The aluminum/stainless strengthening sounds very appropriate too. Good Luck!

 

[John]

engine access cockpit

I have a 36ft. 1980 with a cockpit floor access panel. Mine also leaks. The problem with mine was the original access of the panel was not straight. Mine has a raised lip on the sole to prevent water from coming in. Mine was off center when they drilled the holes, and therefore they drilled into the actual floor and not the raied lip. I filled the old holes and recentered the access panel, drilled new holes and put down a rubber gasket and only caulked the screw holes. This way it is sealed but not permanently if I need to get to my starter or other components.