I wondered if anyone has experience encapsulating keel bolts with epoxy. Mine were not encapsulated on our O'Day 35 and I seen advice from Don Casey and others that it is good idea. I wondered what was the best filler to use and to what thickness so that you would be able to chip it off when you need to work on the keel bolts at a future time. Appreciate it. Good Winds Dave
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Tim Schaaf
Not sure it is a good idea!
As part of a so-far-successful blister job (almost eight years), I barrier coated the bilge in my h33, per Interlux. I had the same question, and coated the washer and the nut of each bolt, although not the bolt, itself. Since then, my bilge has been mostly dry, due to Drip-less packing (teflon). However, there has clearly been some rusting of the washers (but not the bolts) and I am considering "chipping" off the epoxy that coats them. It is worth noting that stainless steel needs oxygen to keep the stainless process occurring. I had hoped that coating the whole thing might be the answer (obviously the end of the keel bolts that are embedded in the lead keel are also oxygen starved, but I am not so sure. If I were doing it again, I would probably epoxy everything right up to the edge of the washers, and keep my bilge dry. I will be interested to hear the experience of others.
As part of a so-far-successful blister job (almost eight years), I barrier coated the bilge in my h33, per Interlux. I had the same question, and coated the washer and the nut of each bolt, although not the bolt, itself. Since then, my bilge has been mostly dry, due to Drip-less packing (teflon). However, there has clearly been some rusting of the washers (but not the bolts) and I am considering "chipping" off the epoxy that coats them. It is worth noting that stainless steel needs oxygen to keep the stainless process occurring. I had hoped that coating the whole thing might be the answer (obviously the end of the keel bolts that are embedded in the lead keel are also oxygen starved, but I am not so sure. If I were doing it again, I would probably epoxy everything right up to the edge of the washers, and keep my bilge dry. I will be interested to hear the experience of others.
Stainless or Galvanized?
Dave: I have also heard the same thing that Tim is talking about. Oxygen starvation of stainless. I always thought that you are suppose to keep them clean and dry (as possible). If you have salt water leakage, you may want to consider a Shaft Seal or Teflon packing to keep you bilge dry. If you rinse the bilge out with fresh water periodically it should help mitigate some of the corrosion problems too. I read Don Casey's article too. Seach around the internet and see what else there is on this subject.
Dave: I have also heard the same thing that Tim is talking about. Oxygen starvation of stainless. I always thought that you are suppose to keep them clean and dry (as possible). If you have salt water leakage, you may want to consider a Shaft Seal or Teflon packing to keep you bilge dry. If you rinse the bilge out with fresh water periodically it should help mitigate some of the corrosion problems too. I read Don Casey's article too. Seach around the internet and see what else there is on this subject.
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Dave Mauney
Tim
I appreciate your responses. I have stainless keel bolts. I agree about stainless and oxide film. If Casey was talking about steel boats encapusulation would make since. If I would do it to stainless I assumed that I would have to encapsult them down to the bilge floor so that all the keel bolt is in a reduced oxygen environment so as not to create a differential aeration cell. I will do some more searching and drop a note to Casey on Sailnet and let you know. Thanks Goodwinds Dave
I appreciate your responses. I have stainless keel bolts. I agree about stainless and oxide film. If Casey was talking about steel boats encapusulation would make since. If I would do it to stainless I assumed that I would have to encapsult them down to the bilge floor so that all the keel bolt is in a reduced oxygen environment so as not to create a differential aeration cell. I will do some more searching and drop a note to Casey on Sailnet and let you know. Thanks Goodwinds Dave
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David
Keel Bolts
I have found that one of the best ways to encapsulate keel bolts is the following: Dry and clean bolts nuts and washers and areas around them,cut the bottom out of a paper cup and coat the inside of the cup with a release agent such as vasoline. Place the cup over the bolt, nut and washer then fill just over the top of the bolt with a clear silicon caulk. After the caulk sets remove the cup and you have a sealed bolt nut and washer. This provides an easy way to monitor the bolt as well as easy access to tighten when necessary.
I have found that one of the best ways to encapsulate keel bolts is the following: Dry and clean bolts nuts and washers and areas around them,cut the bottom out of a paper cup and coat the inside of the cup with a release agent such as vasoline. Place the cup over the bolt, nut and washer then fill just over the top of the bolt with a clear silicon caulk. After the caulk sets remove the cup and you have a sealed bolt nut and washer. This provides an easy way to monitor the bolt as well as easy access to tighten when necessary.
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Dean Bachelor
I checked mine
Dave, I went out and checked mine as it is a 1985 C30 all original. There is epoxy on the washer, nut and bolt BUT only a small amount of epoxy going up over on of the flat surfaces on the nut and slightly onto the thread of the bolt, I think it is only to hold the nut in place. I noticed some slight cracks in the epoxy, indicating some shifting or movement, but only enough to crack not split or chip this little (strip) of epoxy. I like the idea of the silicone though, and I may try it on a couple for this year. Good luck, Dean
Dave, I went out and checked mine as it is a 1985 C30 all original. There is epoxy on the washer, nut and bolt BUT only a small amount of epoxy going up over on of the flat surfaces on the nut and slightly onto the thread of the bolt, I think it is only to hold the nut in place. I noticed some slight cracks in the epoxy, indicating some shifting or movement, but only enough to crack not split or chip this little (strip) of epoxy. I like the idea of the silicone though, and I may try it on a couple for this year. Good luck, Dean
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