I recently installed an Electrosan treatment system but I was not able to install the Electrosan below the toilet outlet. The inlet on the Electrosan is about 3 inches above the outlet on the toilet. The top of the Electrosan is about even with water line and the discharge line from the electrosan rises a few inches above the water line before going down to the thru-hull discharge. I have been having problems with toilet bowl back filling from the Electrosan. Is there a way to make this setup work even though the Electrosan is a little above the head discharge?
Electrosan location
- Thread starter Rhettb
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Put a vented loop between the toilet and the device
This means that TWO vented loops are required in the discharge--one between the toilet and the the treatment unit and a second one between the treatment unit and the thru-hull. Both loops need be high enough to be at least 6-8" above waterline AT ANY ANGLE OF HEEL...if you put 'em too low, they won't solve the problem.
This means that TWO vented loops are required in the discharge--one between the toilet and the the treatment unit and a second one between the treatment unit and the thru-hull. Both loops need be high enough to be at least 6-8" above waterline AT ANY ANGLE OF HEEL...if you put 'em too low, they won't solve the problem.
Thanks Peggie,
I will try and install the two vented loops in the limited space I have. Do you have any guidance or requirements for routing of the loop vent lines to an outside location? I read someplace that sewer vent lines should no exceed a 45 degree rise because sewer gas is heavier than air. Is this correct?
I will try and install the two vented loops in the limited space I have. Do you have any guidance or requirements for routing of the loop vent lines to an outside location? I read someplace that sewer vent lines should no exceed a 45 degree rise because sewer gas is heavier than air. Is this correct?
Do NOT put vent lines on vented loops!
I know that Raritan recommends 'em, but it's one of the few things that they're wrong about!
Vented loops should have an air valve that threads into the hole in the nipple at the top of the loop--a one way valve that only opens when anything is PULLED through a line, to break a siphon...they're not supposed to let anything out, so they don't squirt. Air valves do require a little maintenance--periodic cleaning and occasional replacement--to remove any buildup of waste, salt and/or sea water minerals. So they're almost alway sold separately...the teenager working in the marine store doesn't even know they exist, so you may have to order 'em. Which is why people put vent lines on vented loops. So why is it a bad idea?
Because the vent line on the nipple is only 1/4" ID--so small that it will become clogged with waste, salt and/or sea water minerals in a week...turning the vented loop into an UNvented loop that no longer has any ability to break a siphon. And because it's solved the problem--no more squirting--it's 'out of sight, out of mind'...never cleaned.
So do it right...put air valves in 'em and forget about vent lines...which you've confused with holding tank vent lines anyway. It's HOLDING TANK vent lines that (ideally) shouldn't rise more than 45 degrees...it doesn't matter what you do with a vent line off a vented loop as long as you don't tee it into any other line.
I know that Raritan recommends 'em, but it's one of the few things that they're wrong about!
Vented loops should have an air valve that threads into the hole in the nipple at the top of the loop--a one way valve that only opens when anything is PULLED through a line, to break a siphon...they're not supposed to let anything out, so they don't squirt. Air valves do require a little maintenance--periodic cleaning and occasional replacement--to remove any buildup of waste, salt and/or sea water minerals. So they're almost alway sold separately...the teenager working in the marine store doesn't even know they exist, so you may have to order 'em. Which is why people put vent lines on vented loops. So why is it a bad idea?
Because the vent line on the nipple is only 1/4" ID--so small that it will become clogged with waste, salt and/or sea water minerals in a week...turning the vented loop into an UNvented loop that no longer has any ability to break a siphon. And because it's solved the problem--no more squirting--it's 'out of sight, out of mind'...never cleaned.
So do it right...put air valves in 'em and forget about vent lines...which you've confused with holding tank vent lines anyway. It's HOLDING TANK vent lines that (ideally) shouldn't rise more than 45 degrees...it doesn't matter what you do with a vent line off a vented loop as long as you don't tee it into any other line.
2 vented loops?
I'm getting ready to install an Electro Scan and am a bit confused about needing two vented loops - is this only need if the unit is not lower than the head outlet?
Thanks
I'm getting ready to install an Electro Scan and am a bit confused about needing two vented loops - is this only need if the unit is not lower than the head outlet?
Thanks
You need 'em both on a sailboat because, although the unit may be below the toilet when the boat's at rest, heeling can put the unit above the toilet.
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