electrical refit

Jun 2, 2004
128
I'm planning on a total rewire, new panel, etc. this winter. Anybody
have any tips, suggestions, guidance on fittings to avoid, or general
advice. I will most likely leave the batteries in the original
location (forward of the bilge) with the panel under the bridge deck
although I am open to other ideas-since both these locations have
obvious drawbacks.

Thanks,

Tom

V 398 "Blue Skies"
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
Tom:

One of the most important things to consider on a rewire, however
extensive: Be sure to use "marine-grade" wire. It is tin plated, and will not corrode
inside the connections as non-tin-plated wire will do. Yes, it is somewhat
more expensive, but well worth the cost.

Good Luck.....................Ed
 
Dec 18, 2001
31
Tips learnt from my rewire of Alkira -
a. Keep wiring neat and well supported.
b. Don't bother with colour coding - label the wire terminations.
c. Compile an updated wiring diagram.
There is nothing more confusing / annoying when fault finding at a later
date to be faced with a birds nest of wires disappearing in all directions
into all the boats nooks and crannies!
For labelling I used yellow heat shrink tubing at each wire end. This
reduces to approximately half it's diameter on heating to grip (and support
/ seal the wire end). Mark any relevant information on the tubing with
indelible pen before you shrink it. Your text will shrink with the tube on
heating but still remain legible.

Hope this helps,
Frank Fowler.
 
Dec 16, 2002
37
I've been doing this type of work for many years in the military and civilian environments. I'm always learning new techniques and invite suggestions.
Here are a few essential tips that come to mind:
1. Use marine grade shrink tubing since it has a gel type material inside that makes a water tight seal after shrinking.
2. Marine grade wiring ... of course.
3. There will be some occasions when you will want to use crimp type ring, spade or fork terminals. If they are in areas where there is considerable humidity or moisture I will also fill the crimp with solder. In these cases I use crimps without plastic collars and then use shrink tubing to cover the connection. The area inside the crimp between the wire strands is very susceptible to collecting grease & dirt and then corrosion. There are other methods of protecting connections, some less effective and some more extreme depending on the location of the wiring.
4. There are also crimp type connectors that have a shrink sleeve attached. They also work well for certain areas.
5. Don't leave extra wire for most DC wiring. It's best to cut to exact length unless you think you'll need to remove a device for servicing. (i.e. pulling a light socket out to replace a bulb) This will reduce the usual rats nest that I find on most boats,
6. If you have data and control cables for electronic devices stow and secure any excess behind a panel rather than in a storage space where it could be damaged while sailing.
7. I prefer to use red and yellow wire for DC supply lines and black and white for AC supply lines. In AC applications black is hot and white is neutral (USA code, I don't know about Euro codes). For DC applications black is ground. If you use red and black for DC wiring and also have AC aboard, be careful!!!!!
8. Secure wires with plastic ties and mounting devices. There are so many different types available. Choose what works for you. I usually secure wire every 6 to 9 inches in most areas, maybe up to 12' in larger areas.
9. Drill pilot holes for mounting screws to avoid spliting wood and cracking fiberglass. I use a drill stop so I only drill as deep as needed.
10. Mounting screws.... stainless steel. Nuff sed!
11. Never, never, never, never, never use black tape on a boat. There is always a better alternative!!!!!

I could keep writing a book on this; many have. Having a reference book handy is also advisible!
Good luck. If you have any specific questions I'd be happy to help.
John
Southern Comfort Too (still sailing)
 
Jan 28, 2001
694
John you said it very well. It's the way we wired Lyric and the only
failures we ever had were in fuse connections and those were easily
corrected with a bit of sandpaper. I'll add my two cents worth. TAP plastic
has ABS plastic sheet. We made the panel out of it and used 1/4 inch. We put
it under the companionway and hinged it so it could drop down for access.
Wholesalers are a good place to get bulk terminals without the plastic
sleeves. If you can't find them you can remove the sleeves by heating with a
heat gun and pulling them off with needle nose pliers. I prefer rings for
just about everything but if it is a piece of equipment that will removed
fairly often use forks. Two kinds of forks, best one is where the tines have
a bend on the ends. Everything on a boat is subject to high humidity, crimp,
solder and seal all connections. One thing that you didn't cover is drip
loops. If the wire is running down to a connection put a small loop in it.
Any condensation will go to the bottom of the loop and drip off instead of
running down to the connection. I also like to use copper paste on the
terminals. Walt