The OEM install was not designed with the Link. The inverter was controlled exclusively by the inverter switch. WG has a common inverter/charger upgrade.
Electrical Question
- Thread starter wgkenney
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I'm not sure what you mean by "easy storage of the batteries".
Unless the boat is metal and the goal is total isolation of the drivetrain I see no advantage.
Unless the boat is metal and the goal is total isolation of the drivetrain I see no advantage.
Beneteau wiring - interesting
Hi, wgk
Some good advice, so far.
1. Since you have a Beneteau, you have those three basic house, reserve (start), and negative switches. It just isn’t worth discussing the merits of the 1-2-B switch, since we should try to help wgk in dealing with what he does have on his Beneteau.
2. The inverter switch is also, if you look at it, a charge switch, too. That’s ‘cuz it’s in the same heavy wire from the Freedom to the house bank. Those wires work both ways: charger to house bank, and also DC from the house bank to the inverter (which is why they’re so big). I don’t understand the need for that switch at all. If it’s off, the charger won’t charge. As mentioned, the Link controls the inverter function of the Freedom. That “inverter” switch should be and can be left closed (i.e., “on”) all the time. Not a bad idea to use as a safety switch if working on the A.C. side of the wiring, though.
3. Negative shunt wiring: It appears that the reserve bank’s negative is on the battery side of the shunt. Since the Link 1000 only measures the house bank, you may want to check the Link 1000 instruction manual to see if the negative wiring from the start bank is correct at the shunt.
4. Brian wrote: Your start switch also acts as a parallel switch. I would re-configure this so the house and start banks were not being paralleled during starting. The way to do this would be to remove the wire linking the start and house switches. I would replace it with a separate switch between the battery side of the house switch and the engine side of the start switch. This will allow you to start from the house bank without paralleling the banks, which there is not a reason to do. This will allow the Echo Charge in the Freedom to work properly. That’s one way. The goal, or “design criteria,” I believe, is to design a system where the start bank can be used for LIMITED house loads in case the house bank dies (catastrophically and completely) AND AT THE SAME TIME does NOT parallel the two banks. Given what you show in the wiring diagram, wgk, and to minimize your physical work, the simplest way to do that would be to ADD yet another switch in the paralleling wire between the start and house switches. I just hate adding switches, but it seems the simplest to do with what you have. Right now, when the house and start switches are closed, the banks are paralleled anyway and the echo charger is running parallel to that, too. Or just take out the paralleling wire, but then you wouldn’t be able to use the start for a LIMITED house load. Your boat, your choice, you now have a few. See also #6 below.
5. wgk wrote: “If I just leave the start switch open I can start the diesel on the house bank and the start battery will be handled by the echo as you confirmed in your first para. Is there an advantage to installing the separate switch to start off the house bank. I have seen that suggestion in several other threads and was curious about the advantage.” See #4 above. Also see Reply #9 in the topic – I agree with Brian (mitiempo)
6. Engine to start switch wiring: There is, however, another very interesting issue here. That could be because we’ve been discussing the Freedom wiring and the switches. There is only ONE wire shown between the engine and the batteries (either bank). This means that BOTH the alternator output (AO) AND the power TO the starter are using the SAME wire, with a small wire connection between the alternator output and the starter. In order to avoid ANY potential for alternator diode damage, the AO should be its OWN NEW separate wire from the alternator to the house bank, and remove the small wire between the AO and the starter; a suitable landing for this new AO would be the house bank side of the house switch (with proper fusing) but even better to a positive distribution post (like a Power Post) closer to the house bank and fused. Maine Sail and I have also advocated a switch in this line to easily de-energize the alternator for when you’re working on it. Yeah, I know, yet another damned switch! I simply remove our mega fuse. Then you have to figure out where you want to run the starter wire from: either from the start switch or from the house bank side of the house switch, like the power to the distribution panel with a way to switch the start bank for power if the house bank dies. Read this in conjunction with the discussion above about that parallel wiring between the start and house switch.
Beneteau multiple switches and wiring makes this a really challenging subject, doesn’t it? Makes me love our simple 1-2-B switch.
To summarize: I’d put in a switch between the existing house and start switch parallel wire, run a new alternator output wire from the alternator to the house bank, and move the wire that powers the starter from the start switch to the house switch, just like the DC distribution panel. That would seem to fit the design criteria discussed in Item 4 above.
Stu
Hi, wgk
Some good advice, so far.
1. Since you have a Beneteau, you have those three basic house, reserve (start), and negative switches. It just isn’t worth discussing the merits of the 1-2-B switch, since we should try to help wgk in dealing with what he does have on his Beneteau.
2. The inverter switch is also, if you look at it, a charge switch, too. That’s ‘cuz it’s in the same heavy wire from the Freedom to the house bank. Those wires work both ways: charger to house bank, and also DC from the house bank to the inverter (which is why they’re so big). I don’t understand the need for that switch at all. If it’s off, the charger won’t charge. As mentioned, the Link controls the inverter function of the Freedom. That “inverter” switch should be and can be left closed (i.e., “on”) all the time. Not a bad idea to use as a safety switch if working on the A.C. side of the wiring, though.
3. Negative shunt wiring: It appears that the reserve bank’s negative is on the battery side of the shunt. Since the Link 1000 only measures the house bank, you may want to check the Link 1000 instruction manual to see if the negative wiring from the start bank is correct at the shunt.
4. Brian wrote: Your start switch also acts as a parallel switch. I would re-configure this so the house and start banks were not being paralleled during starting. The way to do this would be to remove the wire linking the start and house switches. I would replace it with a separate switch between the battery side of the house switch and the engine side of the start switch. This will allow you to start from the house bank without paralleling the banks, which there is not a reason to do. This will allow the Echo Charge in the Freedom to work properly. That’s one way. The goal, or “design criteria,” I believe, is to design a system where the start bank can be used for LIMITED house loads in case the house bank dies (catastrophically and completely) AND AT THE SAME TIME does NOT parallel the two banks. Given what you show in the wiring diagram, wgk, and to minimize your physical work, the simplest way to do that would be to ADD yet another switch in the paralleling wire between the start and house switches. I just hate adding switches, but it seems the simplest to do with what you have. Right now, when the house and start switches are closed, the banks are paralleled anyway and the echo charger is running parallel to that, too. Or just take out the paralleling wire, but then you wouldn’t be able to use the start for a LIMITED house load. Your boat, your choice, you now have a few. See also #6 below.
5. wgk wrote: “If I just leave the start switch open I can start the diesel on the house bank and the start battery will be handled by the echo as you confirmed in your first para. Is there an advantage to installing the separate switch to start off the house bank. I have seen that suggestion in several other threads and was curious about the advantage.” See #4 above. Also see Reply #9 in the topic – I agree with Brian (mitiempo)
6. Engine to start switch wiring: There is, however, another very interesting issue here. That could be because we’ve been discussing the Freedom wiring and the switches. There is only ONE wire shown between the engine and the batteries (either bank). This means that BOTH the alternator output (AO) AND the power TO the starter are using the SAME wire, with a small wire connection between the alternator output and the starter. In order to avoid ANY potential for alternator diode damage, the AO should be its OWN NEW separate wire from the alternator to the house bank, and remove the small wire between the AO and the starter; a suitable landing for this new AO would be the house bank side of the house switch (with proper fusing) but even better to a positive distribution post (like a Power Post) closer to the house bank and fused. Maine Sail and I have also advocated a switch in this line to easily de-energize the alternator for when you’re working on it. Yeah, I know, yet another damned switch! I simply remove our mega fuse. Then you have to figure out where you want to run the starter wire from: either from the start switch or from the house bank side of the house switch, like the power to the distribution panel with a way to switch the start bank for power if the house bank dies. Read this in conjunction with the discussion above about that parallel wiring between the start and house switch.
Beneteau multiple switches and wiring makes this a really challenging subject, doesn’t it? Makes me love our simple 1-2-B switch.
To summarize: I’d put in a switch between the existing house and start switch parallel wire, run a new alternator output wire from the alternator to the house bank, and move the wire that powers the starter from the start switch to the house switch, just like the DC distribution panel. That would seem to fit the design criteria discussed in Item 4 above.
Stu
Re: Beneteau wiring - interesting
Thanks Stu,
Some good advice here. Going to print this all out. I have an electrican at my marina that I like and has been very helpful. He and I are going to sit down this weekend and lay out a project for while I'm on the hard in a month or so.
I also need to get my head back up in the diesel compartment and verify this I drew the AO / Strater system properly. I belive there is only one set of heavy wires coming off the diesel.
I don't mind the switches as long as I understand what they do.
I'll also look again at the physical placement of the start negative and the manual. Need to make sure I got this one right.
Thanks Stu,
Some good advice here. Going to print this all out. I have an electrican at my marina that I like and has been very helpful. He and I are going to sit down this weekend and lay out a project for while I'm on the hard in a month or so.
I also need to get my head back up in the diesel compartment and verify this I drew the AO / Strater system properly. I belive there is only one set of heavy wires coming off the diesel.
I don't mind the switches as long as I understand what they do.
I'll also look again at the physical placement of the start negative and the manual. Need to make sure I got this one right.
Stu is correct - the way the shunt is wired the Link will measure the start and house loads which I am sure you do not want. The start battery negative should be moved to the load side of the shunt so the Link only measures amps in/out of the house bank.
Stu - I missed the fact that there is only one wire between the engine and batteries - Catalina and many others do this. I agree it should be changed with a wire of some size between the alt and the house bank, fused.
Stu's ideas make sense and it is unfortunate as there are already too many switches - but adding one more is a good idea between the house and start switches in the paralleling wire.
Too many switches can be confusing for anyone - it should be intuitive so in an emergency the correct switch or can be chosen. Otherwise it is as confusing as the array of switches below.
Stu - I missed the fact that there is only one wire between the engine and batteries - Catalina and many others do this. I agree it should be changed with a wire of some size between the alt and the house bank, fused.
Stu's ideas make sense and it is unfortunate as there are already too many switches - but adding one more is a good idea between the house and start switches in the paralleling wire.
Too many switches can be confusing for anyone - it should be intuitive so in an emergency the correct switch or can be chosen. Otherwise it is as confusing as the array of switches below.
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