This one has me stumped. All of the electrics coming through my circuit breaker board on my 1981 Hunter 27 are nonfuctional, and have been since I put her in the water this spring. It's not the batteries or the battery selector switch (because the engine starts up just fine), and I've inspected the circuit breaker board and all of the connections look fine. The breaker switches also work fine. But nothing works; cabin lights, running lights, bilge pump (I have a manual backup pump),freshwater system pump, etc. It all worked fine in the fall, but now, nothing One possibility is that the plug connecting the house wiring to the mast wiring has come undone (that will disconnect the whole circuit-I know that from taking the mast down in the past). But I did not take the mast down over the winter and it's hard to imagine how it just "disconnected." Before I go to the length of pulling the stick and taking a look, does anyone have any other suggestions?
Electrical failure
- Thread starter John New
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you didnt mention the ground
take of length of wire and connect to your negative side of the battery. then check your panel positives against the negative from the battery. if you have a circuit look into where the negative lost its connection. mike
take of length of wire and connect to your negative side of the battery. then check your panel positives against the negative from the battery. if you have a circuit look into where the negative lost its connection. mike
Test it through step by step
Mike has a good suggestion about the ground. If you have no other way of testing go to an automotive store and buy a 12 volt test lamp for about $4. You also want about 20 feet of #16 wire so you can extend the reach of your test lamp. Turn it all on so the panel should be energized. To test the "ground" (connection to the negative side of your battery), connect one end of your long lead to the positive right at the battery and the other to the test lamp. Use the lamp to probe the negative right at the battery, it should light! Move along the negative connections from the battery to the panel. It probably goes first to the engine and from there to the panel. If you get all the way to the panel and the lamp is still lighting then your ground is O.K. (Note other end is still connected to the positive right at the battery) If your ground is O.K. the move the long lead to the negative. Check right at the battery and then move along the connections from the battery to the panel. Somewhere it won't be getting through. The advantage of the test lamp is - it is cheap - you don't need to understand very much about it - you can't wreck it by using it on the wrong function - it draws enough current to require a fairly good connection to light. One other thing, if you needed to have a connection to maast wiring for stuff to work there is almost certainly something missing, quite possibly a good ground to the panel. That should be corrected because in the interests of performance, reliablity and corrosion you don't want the ground getting there by some back door route. So if it mysteriously starts working by itself it is a good idea to probe for the cause. John Brecher
Mike has a good suggestion about the ground. If you have no other way of testing go to an automotive store and buy a 12 volt test lamp for about $4. You also want about 20 feet of #16 wire so you can extend the reach of your test lamp. Turn it all on so the panel should be energized. To test the "ground" (connection to the negative side of your battery), connect one end of your long lead to the positive right at the battery and the other to the test lamp. Use the lamp to probe the negative right at the battery, it should light! Move along the negative connections from the battery to the panel. It probably goes first to the engine and from there to the panel. If you get all the way to the panel and the lamp is still lighting then your ground is O.K. (Note other end is still connected to the positive right at the battery) If your ground is O.K. the move the long lead to the negative. Check right at the battery and then move along the connections from the battery to the panel. Somewhere it won't be getting through. The advantage of the test lamp is - it is cheap - you don't need to understand very much about it - you can't wreck it by using it on the wrong function - it draws enough current to require a fairly good connection to light. One other thing, if you needed to have a connection to maast wiring for stuff to work there is almost certainly something missing, quite possibly a good ground to the panel. That should be corrected because in the interests of performance, reliablity and corrosion you don't want the ground getting there by some back door route. So if it mysteriously starts working by itself it is a good idea to probe for the cause. John Brecher
Check behind the panel(s)
Another thing to check: drop the electric panel(s) and check for a fuze you might not know about. I have two panels on my 37 (one for engine and one for all else) and discovered the PO had installed in-line fuzes behind the panels. One was popping every time keyed the microphone, as it was too low rated for the transmitter. You never know what previous owners and/or electricians may have modified... Good luck. S.
Another thing to check: drop the electric panel(s) and check for a fuze you might not know about. I have two panels on my 37 (one for engine and one for all else) and discovered the PO had installed in-line fuzes behind the panels. One was popping every time keyed the microphone, as it was too low rated for the transmitter. You never know what previous owners and/or electricians may have modified... Good luck. S.
Blown fuseable link?
John: You need to check for a fuseable link or a battery fuse in the line. Good chance it would be on the negative side of the the battery.
John: You need to check for a fuseable link or a battery fuse in the line. Good chance it would be on the negative side of the the battery.
Mast connection!!??
Mr. Brecher is correct, if the mast cable unplugged causes loss of power that needs to be fixed. Almost certainly a ground issue as pointed out. The 12v wiring on the Cherubinis is very simple. A ground wire from the engine block to the panel and a too small #12 wire from the starter to the panel. If the engine starts then you obviously have 12 volts at the point where the wire goes to the panel. Check that wire run but I think you are going to find a ground issue. On the Cherubinis that I have worked on there is only one fuse and it breaks the voltage to the starter.
Mr. Brecher is correct, if the mast cable unplugged causes loss of power that needs to be fixed. Almost certainly a ground issue as pointed out. The 12v wiring on the Cherubinis is very simple. A ground wire from the engine block to the panel and a too small #12 wire from the starter to the panel. If the engine starts then you obviously have 12 volts at the point where the wire goes to the panel. Check that wire run but I think you are going to find a ground issue. On the Cherubinis that I have worked on there is only one fuse and it breaks the voltage to the starter.
Mast connection shouldn't affect other circuits
I'd also recommend checking the ground. If I remember correctly there is a bus bar for negative on the side of the electrical panel, make sure you have a good connection there. FWIW, my 27 had (which I assume was original) two circuits, a positive and negative set of wires going to the battery for the engine, and another p/n set going to the electrical panel. Manny
I'd also recommend checking the ground. If I remember correctly there is a bus bar for negative on the side of the electrical panel, make sure you have a good connection there. FWIW, my 27 had (which I assume was original) two circuits, a positive and negative set of wires going to the battery for the engine, and another p/n set going to the electrical panel. Manny
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