Electrical diagrams

[halitc]

i have an 1999 Beneteau Oceanis 461, the other day i have noticed the automatic bilge pump was not running, after some diagnostics, bilge pump and switch were fine, i've started tracing the wires, which was not that successful. finally, i've decided to try to find the fuse, i thought that would be easier, doing that took a while, it was behind the 12v panel hiding somewhere.
anybody knows, an available electrical diagram which at least shows where all the fuses are, for the different equipment.

thanks .. hal ..

 

[Ron20324]

Hal, some equipment might be factory-wired, some installed by the dealer, some by the owners. Often on these forums, folks ask where such-and-such is, but even OEM things can be changed during a production run. I installed ALOT of things on my boat, and made schematics as I went along. Really, if needed, get someone to push and pull wires and make a schematic for future reference. Having done that for the boat with the MS Word Doc program, I started doing my house wiring. My 2 cents.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

You can use a tone generator and probe (aka fox and hound) to find buried wires and fuse holders. The tone will stop at a blown fuse. $20 from Amazon.

 

[JoeRickard]

I think that sounds like a good idea - should work perfectly!

 

[Ron20324]

... it was behind the 12v panel hiding somewhere. anybody knows, an available electrical diagram which at least shows where all the fuses are, ..

I'd get rid of that fuse and rely on the breaker for protection. If the fuse blows when you're trying to pump out water, you don't want to be standing in the water, trying to take the cover panel off.

 

[SG]

I'd get rid of that fuse and rely on the breaker for protection. If the fuse blows when you're trying to pump out water, you don't want to be standing in the water, trying to take the cover panel off.

A lot of boats have the bilge pump wired directly to (one, or more of) the house bank. So there often isn't a breaker, per se.

The fuse is a pretty much back-up safety. If it's blown, then I think there is usually something screwed-up with the pump. Occasionally the switch might be the issue, but then either it won't go on, or it won't go off. If it won't go off -- that usually means the pump will burn-out. When I've seen that, it usually doesn't blow the fuse. :^)))

The Rule pump switch (Auto/Off/Man) panel , and some others) sometimes had a fuse integrated into that switch.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2626

 

[DougM]

Bilge pump should really be on its own breaker.
That was the way my 323 was wired. From the breaker, the wire led to a junction box behind th starboard seat back, with a shared circuit to the head shower. (same pump as I recall).
There was no float switch in the circuit. I installed a float switch as low as I could get it in that shallow bilge and a rule type on/off/auto switch that happened to have a fuse beside the toggle in the face of the panel.

 

[SG]

I’m not sure that the issue of the bilge pump on its own breaker is settled. For example: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/installing-bilge-pump.asp Don Casey is the author.

Directly to the battery is the way recommended by most, in my experience. The three-way control switch is from the manufacturer, usually. Having a counter on them is a good idea.