Electrical connections for the mast

[fred1diver]

Hey everyone, wondering how you all make the mast electrical connections?
what do you think of a waterproof connection box?
or do you prefer a wire thru hull?
I’m leaning towards a waterproof box

 

[rgranger]

I assume you are talking about the electric wire that goes to the anchor/steaming light on the mast. If that is correct, I use one of these

If that is what you are looking for, do a search for 12v marine watertight deck connection

 

[fred1diver]

yes that is what I was thinking of, but I also saw this model
not sure if that is any good

 

[justsomeguy]

not sure if that is any good

It's no good.

 

[fred1diver]

Ok, good to know, thanks

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

yes that is what I was thinking of, but I also saw this modelView attachment 174127
not sure if that is any good

You could use that inside the cabin, if you use a thru-hull gland that allows round wire to go through intact (while squeezing it to a tight waterproof fit).

 

[rgranger]

Yeah I’m not familiar with those
Not sure how you get the wires through the deck with that

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

Not sure how you get the wires through the deck with that

You would use something like a cable clam and make the connection inside the cabin Cable Clams - Blue Sea Systems

 

[DougM]

I have 3 water tight deck connections at the mast base (lights, wind vane, VHF). There is an access panel beneath the deck stepped mast and the cables are connected in one of the “water tight” junction boxes there. The VHF actually has its own through deck connecter. A drip loop in each of the wires above deck along with the through deck connecters keeps any water from running into the access area. I only take the mast down every couple of years, not as if I am a trailer sailer or have to take the mast down for winter storage. If I was a trailer sailer, I would definitely be looking for a more expedient way of disconnecting and reconnecting.

 

[shemandr]

Assuming your mast is deck stepped you could consider this. Make a hole in the deck within the footprint of the mast step big enough to put a 1/4" or so PVC pipe. Be mindful of where this will be in the cabin. Epoxy a piece of the PVC pipe through the deck so that the pipe stands proud of the deck about an inch. That is to keep rainwater out. Thread your wires through the pipe and goop it up enough to prevent chafing. You probably want to have a junction box somewhere near the pipe inside the cabin. That will allow you to un-step the mast without cutting the wires.
You'll want to be pretty certain that there isn't core rot where you want to put the hole. And you should probably remove 1/4' or so of core around the hole and fill with thickened epoxy a la Don Casey.
I had through deck connectors on my Mark 25 and was wholly unsatisfied with them.

 

[AaronD]

I assume you are talking about the electric wire that goes to the anchor/steaming light on the mast. If that is correct, I use one of these

View attachment 174124View attachment 174125View attachment 174126

If that is what you are looking for, do a search for 12v marine watertight deck connection

See this thread too: Deck to mast electrical connection I haven't. tried the first connector pictured above, but I had bad luck with the. second one. I'm happy with a Scanstrut through-deck and a trailer connector. Pictures in the linked thread.

 

[DArcy]

My C&C27 with deck stepped mast has 2 of the chrome plated glands shown on the right in post #2. One for the VHF antenna and one for the mast lights. The wire comes through the deck gland then to a connector - N-type for the VHF then a 4 pin water resistant plug for the mast lights. It ends up looking sort of like post #13 in the other thread but with a chrome plated feed through gland Deck to mast electrical connection

 

[Serenity on Hudson]

I have the first connector in use for my solar panel which I take into the cabin while sailing and it sitting in the cockpit charging the battery while at dock. I also used one for my autopilot. After 5 years of plugging-unplugging the autopilot connection began to fail. I spread the prongs to get a better connection until the smaller one just broke off. Don't use the autopilot on my Capri 22 as it balances so well that I can leave the tiller for a couple of minutes without any significant course variation (as long as the wind is steady and not varying in amplitude or direction significantly). May add the autopilot this year so I can eat lunch while I sail without worry. Or use the facilities other than over the side. My last TP-10 would not calibrate on my Hunter 23.5. I burned out a TP-10 every two years on the Hunter because of excessive weather helm I just couldn't get rid of no matter how focused on sail trim. Water ballast just not a good choice for good sailing characteristics. Good for launch though.

 

[shemandr]

... Don't use the autopilot on my Capri 22 as it balances so well that I can leave the tiller for a couple of minutes without any significant course variation (as long as the wind is steady and not varying in amplitude or direction significantly)...

Is your Capri 22 full keel or wing keel?

 

[Serenity on Hudson]

SRWK 2015