Can you empty all bilges with one electric pump. Are there tunnel connection between each bilge. If so, where are they located so we can clean them? What is the best location for a bilge pump?
Electric Bilge Pump
- Thread starter GreatScot17735
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bilge
the problem seem to be that you need several pumps to do an effective job. that is, i generally get water under the galley and under the ice chest seat. those are the lowest points in an X when in the water. all water that gains access into the bilge ends up at those two locations. and because of the ballast system, the bilge doesn't tie in to one location. i don't use a bilge pump, and most others don't either. we just carry a manual pump. BTW, water seems to only gain access at the rub rail or at the chain plates.
the problem seem to be that you need several pumps to do an effective job. that is, i generally get water under the galley and under the ice chest seat. those are the lowest points in an X when in the water. all water that gains access into the bilge ends up at those two locations. and because of the ballast system, the bilge doesn't tie in to one location. i don't use a bilge pump, and most others don't either. we just carry a manual pump. BTW, water seems to only gain access at the rub rail or at the chain plates.
Dual Bilge
I added a dual bilge system to my D. One on each side. Port side moves it over to the Starboard side and the Starboard side pumps it out the thru hull fitting for the sink. The sink dumps into the bilge. It is just grey water any way from the sink. So why not use that valuable hull fitting to do some real work. Such as keeping the bilge dry as well as a drain. I wired each one with its own fuse and each pump only cost abut $20. I moor my boat all Summer so this is worth its weight in gold. I use to remove all the cushions, pull all the bilge covers and run around with a pail and a hand pump and pump out the water and into the pail and guess where I dumped the pail of bilge water? The sink. The very first time I paddled out to boat after a big storm. I climbed aboard, hit the port switch for about 10 seconds and then the Starboard side for about 20 seconds. Done with no fuss, no mess. I Love it. These are the least expensive pumps on the market and are direct wired with a switch and there own in line fuse. I have a dual battery system so the wireing was a snap. I did this whole system for less than $50. They put out 500gpm with no load and 350gpm with a 2 foot rise to the hull fitting and of course a anti syphon loop. We dont want things to go in the wrong direction while heeled a 25 degrees to starboard. Have fun, Stu
I added a dual bilge system to my D. One on each side. Port side moves it over to the Starboard side and the Starboard side pumps it out the thru hull fitting for the sink. The sink dumps into the bilge. It is just grey water any way from the sink. So why not use that valuable hull fitting to do some real work. Such as keeping the bilge dry as well as a drain. I wired each one with its own fuse and each pump only cost abut $20. I moor my boat all Summer so this is worth its weight in gold. I use to remove all the cushions, pull all the bilge covers and run around with a pail and a hand pump and pump out the water and into the pail and guess where I dumped the pail of bilge water? The sink. The very first time I paddled out to boat after a big storm. I climbed aboard, hit the port switch for about 10 seconds and then the Starboard side for about 20 seconds. Done with no fuss, no mess. I Love it. These are the least expensive pumps on the market and are direct wired with a switch and there own in line fuse. I have a dual battery system so the wireing was a snap. I did this whole system for less than $50. They put out 500gpm with no load and 350gpm with a 2 foot rise to the hull fitting and of course a anti syphon loop. We dont want things to go in the wrong direction while heeled a 25 degrees to starboard. Have fun, Stu
Bilge
After sealing the chain plate, the bilge has been bone dry for 4 years now. Get rid of the source of the problem and keep things simple is my advise. I don't like to empty grey water or any water for that matters into the bilge. It could grow something over long period of time.
After sealing the chain plate, the bilge has been bone dry for 4 years now. Get rid of the source of the problem and keep things simple is my advise. I don't like to empty grey water or any water for that matters into the bilge. It could grow something over long period of time.
Keep it dry
Keep at it until you have zero leaks, even in a heavy rainstorm. That way the wine in your bilges won't lose the labels. Kidding aside, though I do keep my wine in the bilge, if you fix all the leaks, so the bilges are always dry, it makes storage easier, mildew non existent, and the boat smell nicer, but mostimportant... if you ever see water, you know right away you have a serious problem that needs to be taken cafe of immediately.
Keep at it until you have zero leaks, even in a heavy rainstorm. That way the wine in your bilges won't lose the labels. Kidding aside, though I do keep my wine in the bilge, if you fix all the leaks, so the bilges are always dry, it makes storage easier, mildew non existent, and the boat smell nicer, but mostimportant... if you ever see water, you know right away you have a serious problem that needs to be taken cafe of immediately.
check valve
I'd add a check valve on this sink drain idea. (i did on my portable system) they are pretty cheap and since you are now opening up the line lower than the sink it could back feed...
I'd add a check valve on this sink drain idea. (i did on my portable system) they are pretty cheap and since you are now opening up the line lower than the sink it could back feed...
Look Again
If the through hull is below the bottom of the sink, you won't be pumping your bielge in to the sink, unless of corse you are at a great enough heel angle to put the drain above the bottom of the sink. On my boat that would be around 75' and then that would be the least of your problems as the bielge water would be up on the walls, not in the bielge anywhere near the pump. As far as using a check valve, that would defeat the vent, and if the through hull were to go below the water line, as on a port tack, then after the pump finihed pumping, you could just end up syphoning water back in to the bielge. The pump would go back on when the auto switch activated the pump and it would pump it out again, untill the batteries go dead. Use a vented loop. Check valves go bad, and will fail if any foriegn matter goes into them. Don't tell me you never had a noodle go down the dain in your sink.
If the through hull is below the bottom of the sink, you won't be pumping your bielge in to the sink, unless of corse you are at a great enough heel angle to put the drain above the bottom of the sink. On my boat that would be around 75' and then that would be the least of your problems as the bielge water would be up on the walls, not in the bielge anywhere near the pump. As far as using a check valve, that would defeat the vent, and if the through hull were to go below the water line, as on a port tack, then after the pump finihed pumping, you could just end up syphoning water back in to the bielge. The pump would go back on when the auto switch activated the pump and it would pump it out again, untill the batteries go dead. Use a vented loop. Check valves go bad, and will fail if any foriegn matter goes into them. Don't tell me you never had a noodle go down the dain in your sink.
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