Effect of Winter On Self Discharge

Feb 6, 1998
11,709
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Just realized I had never posted this here and a trip into the shed early this morning remindind me I needed to finish this article..

December 11, 2012

After having a discussion with one of my customers about leaving his battery charger on all winter, a practice I am certainly not a huge fan of, I decided to do this article.

On December 11, 2012 I charged this deep cycle battery, that had just ended its sixth year of use, using my bench top DC power supply. I charged the battery to 14.8V and 0.2A of "accepted current" which essentially means this battery was full.



December 11, 2012 @ 10 Minutes

I then carried the battery out to my garden shed, which is unheated, to mimic a boat during the winter here in Maine. I suppose I could have just carried it up the ladder, and into my boat, but no sense in breaking my back, the temps are the same.

At this point I took my first open circuit voltage reading about ten minutes after discontinuing the charge. It read 13.77V and represents a "surface charge" that has not yet dissipated.



December 11, 2012 - Shed

This is a shot of the shed with the battery sitting on the green box. The temps in here mimic that of our boat quite well.

In cold weather the self discharge of lead acid batteries slows dramatically to the point of nearly stopping. The colder the temps the slower the self discharge. In an area that has more temperate winters the rate of self discharge will be slightly faster.



December 14, 2012 - Resting Voltage

I placed the battery in the shed on Tuesday the 11th and on Friday the 14th I remembered to go take a voltage reading. As we can see here the temp was 19F and the open circuit resting voltage, after 4 days, was still reading well above full. This battery, when at full charge, reads about 12.72V to 12.73V. The 24 hour "rest" to get an open circuit voltage reading does not apply well when battery temps are below 77F....

The cold Maine winter temps have not even allowed the battery to drop to a "resting voltage" over a period of four days... As I mentioned cold weather drastically slows the effects of self discharge. I have noted this for years and years and years with the many boats in Maine that store batteries on-board all winter.



February 26, 2013 - Resting Voltage

OK so much for my "article".... Yes, I promptly got ADHD and totally forgot about the battery in the shed until today. Doh'..........:doh: When I remembered about the lonely battery in the shed I shoveled a path through the snow and took a voltage reading.

As you can see this battery is still resting at 12.72V (which is FULL for this battery) after two and half months! December 11, 2012 to February 26, 2013 and still reading technically "full"... Ideally I wanted to get bi-weekly readings, but so much for that.

My point here is to illustrate why leaving your batteries on-board your boat, in the winter, does not lead to their instant demise, as many on the net would have you believe. I, and many in the cold Northeast, have done this for years and years. Our bank longevity is tremendous, and always has been very, very good.

A broken back, hip, leg or other mishap can end your season or sailing career. Lugging batteries on and off boats can be very dangerous, can ruin clothes, and is simply unnecessary unnecessary, if your reason for doing so is cold weather.

Some boat yards like to remove batteries because they can charge you for it! They do not do this because it is good for the batteries. Heck, MANY yards I go in use SUPER DUMB chargers in the battery storage rooms to keep your expensive batteries "topped up" in the heated building.. Most yards are doing you no favors by removing the batteries and "cooking them".... When doing so yards also know the batteries are in-fact disconnected from the vessel and it gives them peace of mind. Some insurance policies for boat yards require stored boats have the batteries 100% disconnected.

This particular Wal*Mart battery had recently ended its sixth year of deep cycle use and still performs at better than both CCA & MCA specifications based on both Argus and Midtronics analyzers. It also still puts up 94-96% of the stated Ah rating when 20 hour capacity tested. This battery had lived every winter on-board our boat uncharged except for the occasional "top up" charge a few times per winter. One winter I purposely did not charge it.

Cold weather is actually a good thing for the batteries, provided they are fully charged when entering storage. A fully charged battery will not freeze until approx -70F. I lived in Alaska, Fairbanks to be exact, and they have been using flooded lead acid batteries up there since they were invented. In most parts of this country we will never see the -60F they see in Fairbanks.. I Fairbanks you can spit and have it hit the ground frozen, not so in the rest of the country.

Lead acid batteries (AGM, GEL and FLOODED batteries are all lead acid) will lose very little voltage/charge in colder weather. If leaving batteries on board I much prefer to see them 100% disconnected from the vessel. They only occasionally need to be topped back up, if at all (depending upon how long your dry storage is).

I find this safer and more reliable than being left on permanent charge and unattended. I see far more problems when batteries are left charging, without any supervision, than I do when left fully charged, disconnected and resting (in cold weather). Perhaps once per month, if that, hit them with some good "bubbling" voltage then disconnect them again. If your temps moderate, or warm up into the 60's, feel free to hit them again.

Self discharge rates are directly dependent upon temperature. As the temperature climbs the self discharge rates also climb. As temps drop the self discharge rates and chemical reactions also slow. When the temps go sub 30F the self discharge crawls to a very, very slow pace.

When I say hit them with a good "bubbling voltage" this applies to flooded batteries. A good gassing voltage of 14.6V to 14.8V will get the electrolyte moving and minimize any stratification going on inside the battery from it sitting idle. It is a common misunderstanding that a constant float charge prevents stratification & sulfation. It will not always do this depending upon battery temps. The floating voltages are often too low to keep the electrolyte moving. This gassing or movement of the electrolyte is what helps limit stratification. Smart chargers that revert to absorption voltages every few weeks will get it moving. Sadly most "smart" chargers don't do this and are not really as "smart" as they think they are.

Still leaving batteries on-charge, connected and unattended can often result in dead banks, which is the exact opposite of the intended goal.. Power outages occur, cords get unplugged, breakers get tripped and not reset and the parasitic loads then go to work killing your bank.

Also be wary of some of the "trickle chargers" out there. Some of these, when un-pluged but still connected to the battery, will actually drain the battery they are connected to. I have had this happen to two customers. They would have been better to 100% disconnect them and not charge. Both banks were ruined.

Most "smart" chargers, or any smart enough to even consider leaving connected full-time, while unattended, will not restart if the battery voltage gets too low. This is a built in safety feature to prevent charging into an internally shorted battery but can mean the charger will not fire back up if the bank voltage has dropped too low..

So, power goes out, or the solar panel becomes occluded in snow/ice, and the parasitic loads of the charger, controller or other "always on" devices suck the bank down. Power comes on or the snow melts but now the battery voltage is below the safe turn on threshold and the battery continues to discharge until fully dead. This is not as rare an occurrence as it would seem. Power had been out three or four times over the winter here in Maine due to winter storms. Will your charger automatically re-boot? Have you tested this?

With a fully charged and 100% physically disconnected battery bank noting except time & temp can discharge it, and when it is cold, you've got plenty of time....:)




Oh Sh*t...........

This morning, September 9th 2013, I walked into the shed and realized a gas can had been set in front of my "experiment" and I had totally forgotten about it. Arghhh that damn ADHD.......:cussing:

What this means is the battery sat from Dec 11, 2012 to September 9, 2013 100% un-charged!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Doh'.......... :doh:




Really, It Was Not My Fault...........:)

After seeing my battery sitting there I immediately went to the barn and grabbed my DVM. I was honestly figuring this battery was a goner. It tested with an open circuit voltage of 12.54V! :eek: This after sitting in a freezing cold then blistering hot shed throughout an entire Maine winter and hot summer.

I was a total disbeliever at the resting OCV of this flooded battery that had sat 100% uncharged for nearly 8 months. I grabbed my refractometer and performed specific gravity checks on each cell. To my amazement they all agreed, meaning each cell was still well balanced, and all agreed with the DVM about the SOC..

So, this perhaps causes one to wonder why there is all the concern around self discharge? Perhaps the reality is that due to the cold winter temps this battery really only saw two to three months of self discharge?

I have to assume that nearly 20-30 days of this summer saw the shed temps over 100F. It is uninsulated with a black roof and every time I went in to grab the mower it was a sweat box....

If we are to believe OCV and SG readings it puts this battery at approx 90% SOC after at least 8 months. Makes for interesting n=1 data, to say the least......

OK I'm off to charge and equalize this battery... Face palm.............:doh:
 
Jan 22, 2008
296
Islander Freeport, 41 Ketch Longmont, CO
So... What you are really saying is, until they invent a better battery, the good old Lead Acid is still the most dependable and economical battery.

If you can get 6+ years with minimal maintenance and no real effort except an occasional top off charge, why waste money on more expensive batteries? They don't last any longer, they don't hold any more AH, they cost 2+ as much and tend to be succesptable to all sorts of oddities that cause premature failure.

Thanks for the details and testing.

Victor
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,047
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Victor,

Many of us have been saying this since they invented batteries.

Here's one from 1999 or so:

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=C34_Battery_Selection

What's so hard? Jim's conclusion is simple:

As the above indicates, choosing the "right" battery type for any application always involves a lot of trade-offs and compromises and you have to know what the end use is going to be to make an educated choice. The bottom line is: unless you are going offshore or a knockdown is a potential in your cruising waters, your best bet by far is flooded batteries for both house bank and starting.
 
Jan 22, 2008
296
Islander Freeport, 41 Ketch Longmont, CO
Stu,

Yes, I haven't been on the forum for that long but, the long term tests just verify what you all have been saying. I think many of us siubscribe to the keep it simple approach, since we sail in a lake my big peice of technology on the boat is the twenty year old VHF radio.

Now if I could just get out of Colorado so I can practice using my sextant (yes I actually have one) for a little while it would be nice.

Fair Winds,

Victor
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Maine Sail,
thanks for all that. its an interesting and informative read...

it kinda follows what i have always beleived and seen with the extra batteries i have on hand, but have always been told there will be a certain amount of discharge from them...

now, with the testing all done and the results in on an older battery in good condition with a full charge setting thru a winter and a summer, how do you suppose the same battery would fair thru same conditions if it started out discharged about 30%.... or More? maybe more testing has to be done to see if it ruins the battery or if it will survive.

the reason for the question is I have seen people who have left a light on, or the radio and it draws the battery down somewhat. when they realize the mistake, they shut the draw off, but walk away from the boat (or rv trailer) without recharging the battery...

ive worked on many pieces of equipment that has had new batteries installed shortly before they were parked. then, a few years after sitting, the equipment needs to be moved or sold and it has to be started.
the batteries in the machine are completely dead without any reading whatsoever... they are replaced with new ones and the machine runs.
so the batteries i have taken out can be restored to hold a full charge with some doing and the proper proceedure, but i have no way of knowing what the capacity of them are. im assuming they are probably a bit sulfated, but they are not bulging the case anywhere. i have installed thse as 'used' batteries elswhere without any further problems with them.

my point is, I have never seen, to my knowledge, a discharged battery in otherwise good condition, that has been frozen to the point of damage that makes the battery unrecoverable. (except for batterys that were ready for failure anyway)
but then the winter temps rarely fall below 18degrees at night here and not for more than a few days at a time...


also, the rumor goes that if you place a battery on the concrete floor for any length of time, it will ruin the battery... I have never experienced any problems associated with setting a battery on the concrete floor. mine has always remained charged and does not ruin the battery.
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
also, the rumor goes that if you place a battery on the concrete floor for any length of time, it will ruin the battery... I have never experienced any problems associated with setting a battery on the concrete floor. mine has always remained charged and does not ruin the battery.
I remember hearing about this growing up, and while I followed my Dad's instructions to always place on a piece of 2x4 of something, in the back of my mine I always wondered what kind of crack he was smoking to believe that...

Later on I found out that there is truth to this, but it lies in the really old batteries that were around before plastic cases. I don't remember the specifics, but before they used plastic cases for the flooded lead acid batteries they used something else, and something about that and concrete ended badly, so you shouldn't mix the two. Since the advent of plastic cased batteries it no longer applies, but the myth carries on...
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,709
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I remember hearing about this growing up, and while I followed my Dad's instructions to always place on a piece of 2x4 of something, in the back of my mine I always wondered what kind of crack he was smoking to believe that...

Later on I found out that there is truth to this, but it lies in the really old batteries that were around before plastic cases. I don't remember the specifics, but before they used plastic cases for the flooded lead acid batteries they used something else, and something about that and concrete ended badly, so you shouldn't mix the two. Since the advent of plastic cased batteries it no longer applies, but the myth carries on...
The cement floor myth is just that, a complete and utter urban myth, with today's batteries. Unfortunately it was passed on from generations where batteries were made of wood boxes coated with creosote and current leakage to ground could occur......

Today placing batteries on a COOL cement floor is actually beneficial to them as cooler temps slow self discharge and help slow the effects of sulfation.
 
Feb 10, 2004
4,136
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I read and hear all these good things about storing fully charged batteries on-board. But I've done this twice in the past with batteries that were 3-4 years old, and each time I ended up replacing the batteries the following year because they didn't seem to be at full capacity.

Coincidence? Murphy's revenge for some un-disclosed transgression?

My practice is to remove the batteries to my basement and after fully charging and checking the electrolyte level, I keep a trickle float charge on them all winter at 13.4V.

In the spring I recheck the levels, charge and equalize, and re-install aboard.

Does anyone think that if I left the batteries onboard and left my wind generator enabled to keep the batteries totally up to snuff, that would be a good idea? The wind generator begins charging if the batteries drop to 12.6V and stops at 13.4V using it's internal regulator.
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
Does anyone think that if I left the batteries onboard and left my wind generator enabled to keep the batteries totally up to snuff, that would be a good idea? The wind generator begins charging if the batteries drop to 12.6V and stops at 13.4V using it's internal regulator.
Aside from the wear the on the generator, I don't see why that would be a bad thing. I left my little solar panel up for the last 2 winters, angled the panel to about 45 degrees so snow and ice would easily fall off, and turned off all loads except the charge controller. It held the batteries at float stage, whenever there was enough sun to even get them there. I couldn't tell any drop in power at all when I went through the spring commissioning this year. They even powered a heat gun running off the inverter, at 120% of rated load, numerous times while doing the heat shrink for electrical work, no issues at all...
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,709
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I read and hear all these good things about storing fully charged batteries on-board. But I've done this twice in the past with batteries that were 3-4 years old, and each time I ended up replacing the batteries the following year because they didn't seem to be at full capacity.

Coincidence? Murphy's revenge for some un-disclosed transgression?

My practice is to remove the batteries to my basement and after fully charging and checking the electrolyte level, I keep a trickle float charge on them all winter at 13.4V.

In the spring I recheck the levels, charge and equalize, and re-install aboard.

Does anyone think that if I left the batteries onboard and left my wind generator enabled to keep the batteries totally up to snuff, that would be a good idea? The wind generator begins charging if the batteries drop to 12.6V and stops at 13.4V using it's internal regulator.
Rich,

Properly charged, then physically disconnected batteries, in the North East, should not need any charging except for perhaps a once or twice per winter top off, if you feel like it. Hell I've got customers who go all winter without any topping off and still get 6+ years.

The problem is that many don't properly charge then 100% isolate the batteries. Sometimes they go into winter with weak or faulty batteries well beyond useful life due to a myriad of reasons. When they die it then most often gets blamed on the winter not the 10 other factors that led the the demise....

Here's a customers bank that lasted 6 years and was still testing perfectly. He RUINED them over the winter by adding an unregulated solar panel.

Another Battery Bank Ruined

I am NOT a fan of unattended charging for long periods of time. I am also not a fan of leaving a spinning mechanical device charging batteries. Just too much to go wrong. Charge them to full, test SG, then equalize, then test SG then 100% disconnect the batteries from the vessel. If the batteries are already healthy they will still be healthy in the spring.

Please keep in mind that charging to 14.4V then allowing the charger to drop to float is likely not resulting in getting a full charge or one suitable for a good long hibernation. If your battery charger won't go to at least 14.6V to 14.8V then use the equalization mode to get them truly full and ready for winter.

If you notice this battery was charged to 14.8V and 0.2A of accepted current. That is FULL....... It was still at 12.54 volts 8 months later!
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
Aside from the wear the on the generator, I don't see why that would be a bad thing. I left my little solar panel up for the last 2 winters, angled the panel to about 45 degrees so snow and ice would easily fall off, and turned off all loads except the charge controller. It held the batteries at float stage, whenever there was enough sun to even get them there. I couldn't tell any drop in power at all when I went through the spring commissioning this year. They even powered a heat gun running off the inverter, at 120% of rated load, numerous times while doing the heat shrink for electrical work, no issues at all...
I wanted to add, I did this because we have been seeing weeks at a time in winter where it warms up into the mid 60's, had it stayed below 50 all winter I would have just disconnected all together...
 
Oct 21, 2010
350
Macgregor 26S, "Myuna" Brisbane, Australia
Thanks very much for that great run-down Maine Sail. I have always been confused by what I read on the web regarding discharge of batteries in storage. To that end I have just carried out similar tests on 2 batteries over the last few months - with similar results to yours. The temps have been higher than yours (see below) and I was only using a cheap, although relatively new, digital multimeter. As far as I can ascertain both batteries are about 4 1/2 years old.

60Ah Sealed Wet Cell
Read 12.85V prior to charging and 6 days after disconnection from charger reading about 12.91V
After 1 month - 12.82V (Temps roughly between 520F – 750F)
After 2 months - 12.78V (Temps roughly between 500F - 770F)
After 3 months - 12.75V (Temps roughly between 540F - 820F)
After 3 1/2 months - 12.72V (Temps roughly between 560F - 850F)

100Ah Deep Cycle Gel Cell

Read 12.55V prior to charging and 6 days after disconnection from charger reading about 12.94V
After 1 months - 12.87V (Temps roughly between 540F - 820F)
After 2 months - 12.70V (Temps roughly between 560F - 850F)