I have an older Edson pedestal that was retrofitted on a Catalina 30. It's the "clutch and throttle" type that has a level forward of the wheel that controls the gearbox, and a 2nd lever to starboard that controls the throttle. The gearbox cable snapped at the pedestal end, fortunately while at the dock. My question for those with experience with these units -- will I need to disassemble the entire pedestal to replace the cable? Seems it would be easy enough to run the new cable, but how would I secure it to the to attachment points in side the pedestal (one at the top near the lever and one about 2/3 way down the pedestal near deck level) -- some sort of special tool to reach up and unscrew/screw the connector to get the cable in? Any help is appreciated -- I'm hesitant to disassemble the entire steering assembly. Landlocked until repaired! Mike Turner M/V Amity MTurner318@aol.com
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
J
James M.
Pedestal Access
Go look in the aft quarter berth. Remove the cover attached to the underside of the cockpit sole. You'll see what you need to do from there. You shouldn't have to disassemble any of the steering assy. Remove the old cable and you should be able to match the Morse part (its likely to be Morse..or Teleflex). You want the length to be exactly the same. Have fun.
Go look in the aft quarter berth. Remove the cover attached to the underside of the cockpit sole. You'll see what you need to do from there. You shouldn't have to disassemble any of the steering assy. Remove the old cable and you should be able to match the Morse part (its likely to be Morse..or Teleflex). You want the length to be exactly the same. Have fun.
T
Tom Soko
Cable
When you talk with Edson (and you should, they're very helpful), they will tell you that you cannot just replace the cable/wire inside the plastic/metal sleeve. you have to replace the whole cable assembly, so you will have to take off the compass (after you mark it carefully). That should give you enough access to the top end. The attachment point in the middle of the pedestal can be loosened from the outside, I believe. That point is to keep the cables from floating around and getting in the way of the steering cables. The engine end should be straight-forward. Good Luck. Tom Soko Julandra C36 #659
When you talk with Edson (and you should, they're very helpful), they will tell you that you cannot just replace the cable/wire inside the plastic/metal sleeve. you have to replace the whole cable assembly, so you will have to take off the compass (after you mark it carefully). That should give you enough access to the top end. The attachment point in the middle of the pedestal can be loosened from the outside, I believe. That point is to keep the cables from floating around and getting in the way of the steering cables. The engine end should be straight-forward. Good Luck. Tom Soko Julandra C36 #659
P
Pat Spino
Shift Cable replacement
Mike: As Tom suggested, contact Edson for their guidance. The process is fairly straight forward. Remove the compass, wheel, and break. It may also be necessary to remove the steering wheel axial for greater access to the pedestal interior. The cables are clamped to the inside of the pedestal by means of a retaining clamp held in place by a screw on the outside of the pedestal. You will have to remove the screw--it may need to be coaxed if frozen! Remove the cable from the engine and pull up through the pedestal. It might be a good idea to attach a line to the engine end of the cable as a messenger line, but this is noty really necessary. Just take notice of the path the cable takes before you remove it. The number and length of the cable is stamped on the outer sleeve of the cable. DO NOT BUY BARGIN CABLES. Reverse the process for replacement. Installation on the interior clamp can be facilitated with the use of a long handle screw driver to help hold it in place while re-securing the screw from outside. A second pair of hands may be helpful here. I would suggest that if you are going to replace the one cable you should also replace the other at the same time. The job will take the better part of the day depending on any complications. Good Luck, Pat
Mike: As Tom suggested, contact Edson for their guidance. The process is fairly straight forward. Remove the compass, wheel, and break. It may also be necessary to remove the steering wheel axial for greater access to the pedestal interior. The cables are clamped to the inside of the pedestal by means of a retaining clamp held in place by a screw on the outside of the pedestal. You will have to remove the screw--it may need to be coaxed if frozen! Remove the cable from the engine and pull up through the pedestal. It might be a good idea to attach a line to the engine end of the cable as a messenger line, but this is noty really necessary. Just take notice of the path the cable takes before you remove it. The number and length of the cable is stamped on the outer sleeve of the cable. DO NOT BUY BARGIN CABLES. Reverse the process for replacement. Installation on the interior clamp can be facilitated with the use of a long handle screw driver to help hold it in place while re-securing the screw from outside. A second pair of hands may be helpful here. I would suggest that if you are going to replace the one cable you should also replace the other at the same time. The job will take the better part of the day depending on any complications. Good Luck, Pat
C
Cliff Carter
Presently Replacing My Cable
We have a 1977 Cat 30 and I am just finishing the process of changing the Morse cable for the shifter on an older model Edson steering system. I ran into some difficulity as the previous owner had repaired/replaced the same cable years ago and looked like something out of a back yard garage. I first removed the transmission end of the cable from the trans and bracket. Also had to remove the teak plywood panel from the rear berth that seperates it from the port lazerette. (made it much easier to pull the old cable out in the way it had been routed.) Then remove the compas and you should be able to see four screws inside the area the compas came out of. Take these out and the plastic section will pop off. You will then see the shift mechanism on the port inside of the unit. Remove the cotter pin and then the clevis pin from the cable yoke. Best to also remove the yoke at this time. Then remove the 1/2 inch head, bolt that secures the long bracket that holds the cable. This bolt will be on the forward side of the inside of the pedestal unit. Once removed then you can pull this bracket up and loosen the clamp that holds the cable to the bracket. When free then you should be able to pull the old cable and casing down from the unit from inside the rear berth. Then you pull out the rest of the cable running to the transmission. If space is tight inside the pedestal when you are trying to remove the cable bracket, which it was in my case then you can remove the four large/long flat head machine screws that hold the round section which the two control handles run through. You can then lift this section up to give you some room. I also had to loosen the set bolt that holds the shift arm onto the shaft so that I could slide it sidewards to starboad for more room. Mine was the repair from "hell" as the previous owner had instaled a 61 series Morse cable and had made his own brackets. I have replaced the old cable with a series 31 Morse but feel I could have gone to the 41 series. In any event I had to fabricate new brackets for inside the pedestal and at the transmission. Hope this of some help to you. If you have any questions you can reach me via e-mail at: ccarter@pacificcoast.net Cliff Carter C30, #598 PlusOne Oak Bay, British Columbia
We have a 1977 Cat 30 and I am just finishing the process of changing the Morse cable for the shifter on an older model Edson steering system. I ran into some difficulity as the previous owner had repaired/replaced the same cable years ago and looked like something out of a back yard garage. I first removed the transmission end of the cable from the trans and bracket. Also had to remove the teak plywood panel from the rear berth that seperates it from the port lazerette. (made it much easier to pull the old cable out in the way it had been routed.) Then remove the compas and you should be able to see four screws inside the area the compas came out of. Take these out and the plastic section will pop off. You will then see the shift mechanism on the port inside of the unit. Remove the cotter pin and then the clevis pin from the cable yoke. Best to also remove the yoke at this time. Then remove the 1/2 inch head, bolt that secures the long bracket that holds the cable. This bolt will be on the forward side of the inside of the pedestal unit. Once removed then you can pull this bracket up and loosen the clamp that holds the cable to the bracket. When free then you should be able to pull the old cable and casing down from the unit from inside the rear berth. Then you pull out the rest of the cable running to the transmission. If space is tight inside the pedestal when you are trying to remove the cable bracket, which it was in my case then you can remove the four large/long flat head machine screws that hold the round section which the two control handles run through. You can then lift this section up to give you some room. I also had to loosen the set bolt that holds the shift arm onto the shaft so that I could slide it sidewards to starboad for more room. Mine was the repair from "hell" as the previous owner had instaled a 61 series Morse cable and had made his own brackets. I have replaced the old cable with a series 31 Morse but feel I could have gone to the 41 series. In any event I had to fabricate new brackets for inside the pedestal and at the transmission. Hope this of some help to you. If you have any questions you can reach me via e-mail at: ccarter@pacificcoast.net Cliff Carter C30, #598 PlusOne Oak Bay, British Columbia
- Status
- Not open for further replies.