I have been getting my H26 ready for the season (it starts early here in central Ca.)and have cobbled up a simple rudder uphaul, I had a simmilar setup on my Mac 26S, but the Hunter is even more suited for this Mod, after completion the rudder can be raised with 1 finger...great way to prevent back injuries. The system cost about $40.00 in various blocks eyebolt,and shackles, the fiddle block has a built in jam cleat that is easy to set with an aft thrust on the line. I have a question for the experienced.. is that big wingnut on the rudder plate sufficient to hold the rudder down ? or should a downhaul line be secured?
easy up for the rudder
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bruce S/V Ahimsa II
nice
I like the idea. The wing nut seems to work fine to the point where I need to uphaul manually in shalow water. I'd like to see the motor/rudder connection you've obviously installed. That's my project this spring and althought there are a number of photos on this site, the more I can see the better job I can do...thanks
I like the idea. The wing nut seems to work fine to the point where I need to uphaul manually in shalow water. I'd like to see the motor/rudder connection you've obviously installed. That's my project this spring and althought there are a number of photos on this site, the more I can see the better job I can do...thanks
Great idea.
I like this set up, I might try something similar on my boat. One question, How is the eyebolt in the rudder secured? I have found the wing nut to do just fine holding the rudder down. In fact my Hunter owners manual warns aginst securing the line in case the rudder hits something.
I like this set up, I might try something similar on my boat. One question, How is the eyebolt in the rudder secured? I have found the wing nut to do just fine holding the rudder down. In fact my Hunter owners manual warns aginst securing the line in case the rudder hits something.
rudder motor connection
Here is a shot of the rudder link, pretty simple really, here's where I got the bracket.. I was plumbing a bathroom at our local college, when the carpenters arrived to install the partitions, they had a cart full of these little 2 hole stainless brackets that bolt to the floor and hold the partitions in place, they looked as though they might serve a nautical purpose so I asked for some, and was given a bag full (your tax dollars at work) The bracket has a 1/4" bore through each side, I got the 1/4" zinc rod from our local Ace hardware store, the motor has an extruded tab on the port side that had room to drill a 1/4" hole..it works great, the nice thing about the bracket is that it was possible to clamp it with vicegrips, and try different locations till I found the "sweet spot" that gave the motor it's best "throw", I would be happy to mail you a bracket if you like
Here is a shot of the rudder link, pretty simple really, here's where I got the bracket.. I was plumbing a bathroom at our local college, when the carpenters arrived to install the partitions, they had a cart full of these little 2 hole stainless brackets that bolt to the floor and hold the partitions in place, they looked as though they might serve a nautical purpose so I asked for some, and was given a bag full (your tax dollars at work) The bracket has a 1/4" bore through each side, I got the 1/4" zinc rod from our local Ace hardware store, the motor has an extruded tab on the port side that had room to drill a 1/4" hole..it works great, the nice thing about the bracket is that it was possible to clamp it with vicegrips, and try different locations till I found the "sweet spot" that gave the motor it's best "throw", I would be happy to mail you a bracket if you like
shear pins are a good call
Laugh?? no way, I like the shear pin option, some others have used those plastic toilet seat bolts as pins, but your chopsticks are cheaper still. I launched my boat this last weekend, and had some great sailing in 15kt winds... the rudder did creep about 2" of hauldown was needed to reset the rudder on my previous boat (a Mac classic (26C)) I devised a truck bungee attached to the hold down cable, the rudder was free to popup, then would return to the sailing position, it worked well and I may duplicate the setup for the H26
Laugh?? no way, I like the shear pin option, some others have used those plastic toilet seat bolts as pins, but your chopsticks are cheaper still. I launched my boat this last weekend, and had some great sailing in 15kt winds... the rudder did creep about 2" of hauldown was needed to reset the rudder on my previous boat (a Mac classic (26C)) I devised a truck bungee attached to the hold down cable, the rudder was free to popup, then would return to the sailing position, it worked well and I may duplicate the setup for the H26
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alan
Bob Fliegal does the bungee thing...
...with his 260 but I don't think it will work with our 26. I've sailed on his boat and it works well. Problem is the designs of the actuall rudder stock and systems are different. I get a lot of lateral force on the rudder when it goes up even a few degrees and a bungee would not bring it down unless I luff up. In addition if I loosen the wing nut enough to allow a bungee to work then there is too much play side to side. Probably has to do with both the rudder design and the flexible aluminum plates. alan
...with his 260 but I don't think it will work with our 26. I've sailed on his boat and it works well. Problem is the designs of the actuall rudder stock and systems are different. I get a lot of lateral force on the rudder when it goes up even a few degrees and a bungee would not bring it down unless I luff up. In addition if I loosen the wing nut enough to allow a bungee to work then there is too much play side to side. Probably has to do with both the rudder design and the flexible aluminum plates. alan
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Rob
eyebolt attachment
Jeremi..I would post a photo of the eyebolt, but the boat is in the harbor right now, the eyebolt I bought had about a 3" long thread, I measured what was needed to have it protrude into the big hole in the rudder (where the stop knot would go)enough for a nut to fully thread on, then to protect the rudder stock I bent a stainless washer kind of semicircleish..then bolted the eye in place by gripping the nylon insert nut with needlenose vicegrips, then rotated the eye until the nut was firmly seated against the bent washer..very secure
Jeremi..I would post a photo of the eyebolt, but the boat is in the harbor right now, the eyebolt I bought had about a 3" long thread, I measured what was needed to have it protrude into the big hole in the rudder (where the stop knot would go)enough for a nut to fully thread on, then to protect the rudder stock I bent a stainless washer kind of semicircleish..then bolted the eye in place by gripping the nylon insert nut with needlenose vicegrips, then rotated the eye until the nut was firmly seated against the bent washer..very secure
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