Dyneema Lifeline Hooks...
- Thread starter Squidd
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Squidd:
Looks impressive but I do not see anywhere in the marketing that they claim UV resistance.
What is wrong with good old stainless steel that traditionally lasts for 15-20 years and is probably as cheap or cheaper in the long run?
Looks impressive but I do not see anywhere in the marketing that they claim UV resistance.
What is wrong with good old stainless steel that traditionally lasts for 15-20 years and is probably as cheap or cheaper in the long run?
Squidd,
Dyneema is quite often used for lifelines on race boats. As you note is very strong but not as UV or abrasion resistant. You would have to figure on replacing it every 3-4 years for a Lake Superior boat. Still, the stuff is dirt cheap and very easy to splice.
Use a Brummel splice on both ends with eye inserts. Attach the aft eye to the pulpit with pelican hook or directly if you don't need it to open. At the bow. Use a 3x lashing of a size smaller dyneema to hold the forward eye to the pulpit.
Dyneema is quite often used for lifelines on race boats. As you note is very strong but not as UV or abrasion resistant. You would have to figure on replacing it every 3-4 years for a Lake Superior boat. Still, the stuff is dirt cheap and very easy to splice.
Use a Brummel splice on both ends with eye inserts. Attach the aft eye to the pulpit with pelican hook or directly if you don't need it to open. At the bow. Use a 3x lashing of a size smaller dyneema to hold the forward eye to the pulpit.
This is what they claim on my piece, UV OK...??
Was $50 for enough to do my boat, just gotta find some hooks...I didn't really price out stainless so I don't knbow how that compares...
Breaking Strength: 5250 lbs.
Constructed From World's Strongest Dyneema SK-75 Fiber
Extremely Light, Floats in Water
Minimal Stretch and Non Rotational
Stronger Than Traditional Steel Cables
Easy to Handle, No Sharp Frays
Easily Spliced
Good Resistance to UV and Chemicals
Workable below -20 degree centigrade
Was $50 for enough to do my boat, just gotta find some hooks...I didn't really price out stainless so I don't knbow how that compares...
Breaking Strength: 5250 lbs.
Constructed From World's Strongest Dyneema SK-75 Fiber
Extremely Light, Floats in Water
Minimal Stretch and Non Rotational
Stronger Than Traditional Steel Cables
Easy to Handle, No Sharp Frays
Easily Spliced
Good Resistance to UV and Chemicals
Workable below -20 degree centigrade
If you have single lifelines and do not need a gate, think about doing what I mentioned in the last post. Making a Brummel splice is something you can learn in 10 minutes. Uses inserts on the eyes if you want but not really needed. Splice the aft one directly to the pulpit, and lash the forward one. Easy, and it the recommended way to do dyneema lifelines. No hardware needed.
http://www.neropes.com/SPL_12Strand_EyeSpliceBrummel.aspx
UV will be fine in Washburn for 5 months/ year.
Stainless lifelines with hardware, I figure $250 min.
http://www.neropes.com/SPL_12Strand_EyeSpliceBrummel.aspx
UV will be fine in Washburn for 5 months/ year.
Stainless lifelines with hardware, I figure $250 min.
If you want to get a price on S.S. lifelines, call them at Seco South. Good quality, great service and good prices too.
Get other opinions on this, but if your existing lifeline attachment points on your rear pulpit tubing has a large enough opening, it would seem to me that a snap shackle like in the following urls (from our forum host's store) would be an option for splicing dyneema onto. "Un-snapping" would allow you to slacken the lifelines if you want.
http://shop.hunterowners.com/prod.php?14490/Fixed Snap Shackle
http://shop.hunterowners.com/prod.php?14492/Fixed Eye Snap Shackles
I use snap shackles like these to attach my jib sheet blocks onto the toe rail (which on my boat is the jib sheet track). Stress on strain for this use has got to be much greater than for life lines. Several hundred outings since I bought my boat and not once either of my two snap shackles pulled out of the toe rail.
http://shop.hunterowners.com/prod.php?14490/Fixed Snap Shackle
http://shop.hunterowners.com/prod.php?14492/Fixed Eye Snap Shackles
I use snap shackles like these to attach my jib sheet blocks onto the toe rail (which on my boat is the jib sheet track). Stress on strain for this use has got to be much greater than for life lines. Several hundred outings since I bought my boat and not once either of my two snap shackles pulled out of the toe rail.
Just another thought since your boat (like mine) has been around awhile: I would think that dyneema (even though it is tough stuff) will fray/abraide if it chafes against anything rough. So where the lifelines lead through the stanchions, I would check that the eyelets are in good condition with no burrs or sharp edges.
Squidd:
Here are the fittings that you can use for the line.
http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00014.htm
Here are the fittings that you can use for the line.
http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00014.htm
Except heating the line weakens it (folks do this on the ends, where it does not matter).
Consider tubular webbing.
Not to appear too silly, but my line came with about 4' section of "chafe tubing" black tubular webbing...
Maybe I should use that...
Cut into 4" chunks and put a stitch or two in to hold them in place...
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