Durable Bottom Paint

Sep 14, 2015
35
Catalina 22 None
Hello, I am in the process of fairing my keel. Soon I will be painting it. I am wondering what is a good durable paint to use on it. The paint will go on top of Interlux Interprotect 2000. The boat is a trailer sailor and only stays in the water while we are using it. I want a durable paint, and I would rather not have that slimy anti fouling paint because it gets everywhere and not needed.

Thanks in advance.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,553
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I have used regular old Rustoleum out of a can... rolled and tipped ... with great success. And the good part is... if you scrape the bottom of your boat two years later, you can find an exact color match. Each of these three boat's bottom was painted with Rustoleum.
In Position.jpg
 
Mar 13, 2011
175
Islander Freeport 41 Longmont
I have done the bottom on two freshwater boats (Hunter 25 and Hunter 28). I like the basic Hard (not ablative) bottom paint form West Marine. The other option which works reasonably well is VC-17. and if its truly a trailer sailor and not stored on the water, then you can even get away with no bottom paint. I know of several boats on our lake that have none at all and stay perfectly clean year after year. depends upon the water you are in and how fast things start to grow.

Good luck. Remember prep is the key. If your prep time doesn't take at least twice as long as the actual bottom painting, you probably didn't do enough.

Victor
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
I am wondering what is a good durable paint to use on it. The paint will go on top of Interlux Interprotect 2000. The boat is a trailer sailor and only stays in the water while we are using it.
Why paint it at all? Most dry-sailed boat run on their gelcoat, or the epoxy barriercoat. Just wipe down when you're done.
 
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Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
So is your swing keel cast iron? Is that the reason for the painting? I've dry sailed my Hunter 22 for years without paint, even leaving it for a few weekends in friends docks. No growth or mussels in freshwater lakes. If you're looking for rustproofing, I agree with rustoleum on bare or primed metal. I'd leave the gelcoat alone - you're just inviting maintenance.

Bottom paint, especially on a trailer, is not a "10 year" proposition -- more like annual or bi-annual (with luck). Every time you haul (and occasionally when launching) you scrape the very thin paint off on your rollers and bunks. If I remember correctly, VC17 loses its anti-foul ability after the first wet/dry cycle and is very thin, so that's an annual think in any case for a trailered boat. My advice: I'd keep your bottom bare.
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
I'm with Jackdaw. If you are only ever dry sailing the boat, or maybe keeping it in the water over a weekend, I wouldn't even bother with the epoxy barrier coat. Polish it up, and go sailing. Over a vacation sitting in the water, you might have a bit of scum stain, but that's nothing any manner of oxalic acid, acid based bathroom cleaner such as The Works, or Mary Kate's On and Off wouldn't fix.

Barrier coats exist to help prevent water intrusion into the gelcoat, preventing osmotic blisters.
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Duh, the original poster said he's fairing his keel. So, in that case, there will be glop all over the original gelcoat. You've got your choice of paint for a drysailed boat. Plain old alkyd enamel paint (Rustoleum is such a paint) will do fine. Or you could go with a fancier one-part polyurethane (epoxy) paint, like Pettit EasyPoxy. (Product name sounds like it makes it easy for you to catch chicken pox, doesn't it? :D ) Then, you can move up to a 2 part polyurethane, which may or may not be worth the expense or effort.

If you're restoring and fairing a cast iron keel, then you should consider the following schedule: clean as much rust off as possible. If there's rust scale, beat with hammer, needle gun, or have it sandblasted. Coat with 2 coats of Ospho phosphoric acid, to create a layer of non-rusting iron phosphate. Then coat with perhaps 2 coats of coal tar epoxy - a formula specifically for marine application. This is what the USCG uses on buoys. Then, you can fill and fair, and paint to your satisfaction. During the fairing process, if you sand though, fix it with the Ospho and CTE. This is how to make the most salt-water resistant cast iron below water appendage. And you need to go in that order, otherwise, rust will form under your fairing material, etc.
 
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Jan 19, 2010
12,553
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
So is your swing keel cast iron? Is that the reason for the painting? .....
Naw! These boats had the ablative stuff on them... and I stripped the bottoms bare. I've been restoring old sailboats now for 14 years and I've learned (the hard way) that some people will hide damage to the hull under many many many layers of bottom paint. So the first thing I do is strip it all of (I even have a homemade recipe for peel away). Then I fill in any gouges, repair any cracks etc. and repaint. The keel you asked about was cast iron but I sandblasted, faired and covered it is several layers of epoxy barrier coat before I painted. The paint was just a way to make it match the bottom
Ready.jpg
5 hours of hammerandairchipper.jpg
 
Nov 9, 2008
1,338
Pearson-O'Day 290 Portland Maine
I used HydroCoat, hard ablative. Water based, easy on, easy cleanup. Works great. Its been on mine for probably 5 years and still looks OK. According to the literature, there are a few boat manufacturers that ship their boats from the factory sporting it on their bottoms. comes in a handful of colors.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,376
-na -NA Anywhere USA
The original post indicated Interlux 2000 barrier coat had been applied and the boat would be only in the water when sailed. First, There are various anti fouling paints to use. As a former dealer, I have always suggested asking locally what works for the area to be sailed in. Believe it or not, that is a good suggestion. Then you need to ask if the boat is going to stay in the water or out of the water. Most ablative paints, the anti fouling will no longer work if out more than 60 days. There are some suitable for trailer sailors that are softer paints but will not loose their anti fouling properities if left out over time.

In your case, you are going to leave the boat on the trailer, then most dealers would tell you anti fouling paints are not needed. If the boat is going to be sailed for over a week or two before going back on the trailer, there is a special wax to apply to keep barnacles and growth from adhereing. I second Jackdaw and when bringing the boat out of the water, rinse the hull off paticluraly the trailer if in brackish or salt water.
 
Sep 14, 2015
35
Catalina 22 None
So is your swing keel cast iron? Is that the reason for the painting? I've dry sailed my Hunter 22 for years without paint, even leaving it for a few weekends in friends docks. No growth or mussels in freshwater lakes. If you're looking for rustproofing, I agree with rustoleum on bare or primed metal. I'd leave the gelcoat alone - you're just inviting maintenance.

Bottom paint, especially on a trailer, is not a "10 year" proposition -- more like annual or bi-annual (with luck). Every time you haul (and occasionally when launching) you scrape the very thin paint off on your rollers and bunks. If I remember correctly, VC17 loses its anti-foul ability after the first wet/dry cycle and is very thin, so that's an annual think in any case for a trailered boat. My advice: I'd keep your bottom bare.
Thanks for the reply. I do have a cast iron swing keel that has been treated with Permatex rust treatment, then coated with Epoxy then fared with a fiberglass body filler. The ability to put the rustoleum directly on metal is long since past. The keel never had a gelcoat as far as I know.
 
Sep 14, 2015
35
Catalina 22 None
Thanks for all your thoughts. I have ordered a barrier coat for the purposes of keeping water out as much as possible. I think I will go with the rustoleum as a hard paint just for an extra layer of durability.

Here is the keel as of last weekend.
 

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Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Thanks for the reply. I do have a cast iron swing keel that has been treated with Permatex rust treatment, then coated with Epoxy then fared with a fiberglass body filler. The ability to put the rustoleum directly on metal is long since past. The keel never had a gelcoat as far as I know.
I'm sure you will be perfectly fine for a drysailed boat. If you are sailing salt water, you should try and freshwater rinse the keel as you can. I don't know how that Permatex stuff works. The website says it "destroys rust" and then leaves a polymer coating. There's gotta be something in it to react with the iron oxide in order to "destroy" it. Maybe it has phosphoric acid after all?
 
Sep 14, 2015
35
Catalina 22 None
These are off of a Catalina... These were originally posted by a guy named Fred and I borrowed heavily from his ideas when doing my keel repair.
Haha, trying to steal my 15 seconds of fame huh? What is that off of? the shape is significantly different than mine. All these keels you do, you must be a man of patience. This is some serious work with some serious hours involved.