I winterize the usual way like everybody else, but I got to thinking... (always dangerous). What's wrong with closing the sea water intake valve, disconnecting the hose, and then briefly running the engine to flush the water out of the heat exchanger until it sucks air, and then leave the seawater side dry for the winter? What am I missing? Would it leave pocket s of water to worry about, even after draining?
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Pete
you answered you own guestion!
You are not really missing anything and you have answered your own question! You most likely will never get all the water out of the cooling system that way and what is left could freeeze (remember you are winterizing the whole system engine, pumps, hoses, muffler etc.) Additional the antifreeze will help to stop any rust from starting on the internal parts of the engine. Never hurts to think and ask questions however I would still winterize the "regular" way!
You are not really missing anything and you have answered your own question! You most likely will never get all the water out of the cooling system that way and what is left could freeeze (remember you are winterizing the whole system engine, pumps, hoses, muffler etc.) Additional the antifreeze will help to stop any rust from starting on the internal parts of the engine. Never hurts to think and ask questions however I would still winterize the "regular" way!
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Guest
$$$
Why not spend 6 dollars on the pink antifreeze and be secure at night? Not the place to cut costs.
Why not spend 6 dollars on the pink antifreeze and be secure at night? Not the place to cut costs.
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Gene Foraker
The first thing to run dry
The first thing to run dry is the water impeller - the most fragile and easily damaged part of the sytem. Also, when the impeller runs dry, will it continue to pump sufficient air to purge the rest of the system?
The first thing to run dry is the water impeller - the most fragile and easily damaged part of the sytem. Also, when the impeller runs dry, will it continue to pump sufficient air to purge the rest of the system?
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Gordon Torresen
Consensus
You got some pretty smart answers to your dumb queation. Water pumps are not air pumps. Antifreeze is cheaper than an impeller or, for that matter, most all other engine parts that could be affected by freezing water. Your question isn't so dumb after all. It did get this on the table for the guy who wants to try it but is too afraid to ask.
You got some pretty smart answers to your dumb queation. Water pumps are not air pumps. Antifreeze is cheaper than an impeller or, for that matter, most all other engine parts that could be affected by freezing water. Your question isn't so dumb after all. It did get this on the table for the guy who wants to try it but is too afraid to ask.
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Robert Fischer
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Gene Barton s/v Paradigm
Thanks, all
I knew there had to be some good reasons. Thanks to eveyone for taking the time. Hope it helps others, too.
I knew there had to be some good reasons. Thanks to eveyone for taking the time. Hope it helps others, too.
Don't forget the head too.
The standard-type marine toilet can be winterised in the same way as the engine is conventionally done. We always did each of these by disconnecting the intake, shutting off the seacock (yes, in that order if the boat is out of the water!), and running the engine or toilet till green comes out the other end. Only when the green is fully concentrated can you be sure (please collect it in a bucket from under the boat!). Then shut everything again and let it sit like that. It is actually less likely to freeze if the boat stays in salt water all year or over a bubbler. A few weeks before he died my dad asked from the hospital bed, after a week's worth of sub-20-degree weather, if anyone had bothered to winterise the boat. We had all been pretty preoccupied with the illness, you know. Steve and I rushed down to the yard where Antigone stood ashore upon her 6-ft keel and with the 46-ft spar in place, stark and tall amidst howling frigid wind– it shook the whole time we were in it. Upon removing the intake hose we found the Yanmar COMPLETELY full of ice. Nothing moved– the hoses did not even flex. Same with the head. We had no idea what to do in such an advanced state of unforgivable neglect and simply poured Xerex all over the end of every water orifice we could access and left it with prayer. First thing I did at work, where we had just re-blocked a Hunter's seized Yanmar for $2500, was to phone the insurance agent to ask if we were covered for what i subtly called 'weather damage' (we were). Then I could sleep. We never told my dad. Fortunately the boat was fine when it thawed, but I would say we definitely dodged a bullet. JC II
The standard-type marine toilet can be winterised in the same way as the engine is conventionally done. We always did each of these by disconnecting the intake, shutting off the seacock (yes, in that order if the boat is out of the water!), and running the engine or toilet till green comes out the other end. Only when the green is fully concentrated can you be sure (please collect it in a bucket from under the boat!). Then shut everything again and let it sit like that. It is actually less likely to freeze if the boat stays in salt water all year or over a bubbler. A few weeks before he died my dad asked from the hospital bed, after a week's worth of sub-20-degree weather, if anyone had bothered to winterise the boat. We had all been pretty preoccupied with the illness, you know. Steve and I rushed down to the yard where Antigone stood ashore upon her 6-ft keel and with the 46-ft spar in place, stark and tall amidst howling frigid wind– it shook the whole time we were in it. Upon removing the intake hose we found the Yanmar COMPLETELY full of ice. Nothing moved– the hoses did not even flex. Same with the head. We had no idea what to do in such an advanced state of unforgivable neglect and simply poured Xerex all over the end of every water orifice we could access and left it with prayer. First thing I did at work, where we had just re-blocked a Hunter's seized Yanmar for $2500, was to phone the insurance agent to ask if we were covered for what i subtly called 'weather damage' (we were). Then I could sleep. We never told my dad. Fortunately the boat was fine when it thawed, but I would say we definitely dodged a bullet. JC II
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Gordon Torresen
Anti freeze
I would like to take issue with Mr Cherubini's post. One should never use the green stuff for winterizing anything will pump overboard when next used. Also, pouring Zerox on top of ice will not cause it to thaw. It may prevent the water from refreezing once the ice thaws but it would have to be really hot to cause any ice to melt.
I would like to take issue with Mr Cherubini's post. One should never use the green stuff for winterizing anything will pump overboard when next used. Also, pouring Zerox on top of ice will not cause it to thaw. It may prevent the water from refreezing once the ice thaws but it would have to be really hot to cause any ice to melt.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
I have to agree with Gordon
Automotive anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) should not be used in the plumbing...it's harmful to hoses and holding tanks. It didn't matter much when toilets were made of bronze, hoses were rubber, and everything was flush overboard...but today everything is plastic, and petroleum products are harmful to plastics (also to rubber and neoprene, but less so).
Automotive anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) should not be used in the plumbing...it's harmful to hoses and holding tanks. It didn't matter much when toilets were made of bronze, hoses were rubber, and everything was flush overboard...but today everything is plastic, and petroleum products are harmful to plastics (also to rubber and neoprene, but less so).
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